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randomtask
Sep 21, 2005, 5:58 PM
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Hi to all,
I live near shuteye ridge, CA and am looking for beta on the area. The local guide book is sooooo outdated. If anyone has any info on this area and or the surrounding domes ( ie chiquito, balloon, jackass, etc) please reply to this topic. Also, does any one know the rating of beer rock @ tollhouse. It's the boulder out front. Anyway, I've heard it is V2 at least but I don't know. Thanks so much for any info that comes this way.
-JR
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randomtask
Sep 21, 2005, 7:55 PM
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oops i posted this in the wrong forum...so does anyone know how to move it I am a forum NOOB.
-JR
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anson
Sep 21, 2005, 8:34 PM
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anson moved this thread from Used Gear / Great Deals to US - West Coast.
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anson
Sep 21, 2005, 8:36 PM
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It's open to question whether the West Coast forum or the Regional Discussions forum would get you a quicker answer, but as the Regional Discussions forum requires linking to the RoutesDB, I'll just drop this in the West Coast forum, and hope for the best.
-aB
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boltdude
Sep 23, 2005, 12:22 AM
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Best bet would be to check out the Southern Sierra Climbers Association which has lots of local members and a newsgroup (group email list, linked in the "Contact us" section of the website). Website is:
http://www.southernsierra.org/
Shuteye beta is pretty tightly held, which is kind of ridiculous considering the approach roads. Even if there were a Supertopo there still wouldn't be that much traffic unless people started dumping their SUVs in favor of real 4x4s. Even the Balls requires miles and miles of driving on potholed roads that probably would be in better shape if they had never been paved.
Anyway, the SSCA folks are rad and it's a great place for a local to connect with other local climbers. A warning though, you may get dragged on first ascents left and right!
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sierraclimber1
Sep 23, 2005, 4:06 PM
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Hi JR,
I live in Oakhurst and head up to Shuteye all the time. I am always looking for new partners or I can get you the beta your looking for. PM me for more info. I plan on heading up there wed or thurs next week. Not much time left in the season so better get up there soon...
PS. I have a huge training wall 600 sq ft all overhanging. It is open for locals to use. Also if your into bouldering I have a new bouldering area 10 minutes from here with great problems.
Grahm
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randomtask
Sep 23, 2005, 4:06 PM
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Hi,
Thank you for your reply. I know that getting beta about the area eis like pulling teeth, which pisses me off kinda because shuteye is literally in my back yard ( I live in North Fork).
-JR
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yosemite
Sep 23, 2005, 5:07 PM
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Tollhouse is a fun place for slab climbing in winter. It's generally above the fog and below the snow. In summer, it can be flat out hot. I was there last week and it was a bit on the warm side until the breeze kicked in. The guide book is adequate to find your way around.
Shuteye and the Balls are difficult to find beta on. I love going to the Balls because usually there is no one around. A word of caution though. That area of SoYo is very popular with hunters. I believe deer season started a week or so ago. I have been on a climb and seen hunters in lawn chairs, with rifles, riding in the back of pick-ups with their legs on the beer cooler. Yikes.
Boltdude,
I have no intention of starting an ethics discussion or advocate for any or no action, but do you have any information on the relatively new bolts on Tollhouse Traverse, many of which are adjacent to cracks that will take pro? Was this a “consensus” retrobolt for the benefit of new leaders and fat old guys like me?
Gene
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fng
Sep 23, 2005, 5:14 PM
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They added bolts to the traverse? By which crack? Where in the world did they feel needed bolts?
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yosemite
Sep 23, 2005, 5:19 PM
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There are two or three bolts on the first pitch, excluding the one at the belay. Both are above where you leave the main corner and trend left. Maybe one or two on pitch 2, excluding the two at the belay. No bolts on pitch 3 except the pre-existing three or four on the 5.7 slab variation. The ones on the slab are legit IMHO.
Gene
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fng
Sep 23, 2005, 5:21 PM
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There is also a lot of climbing within 5 to 6 miles of shaver. I can think of five domes(some not in the book) that are within 15 min. driving from Shaver, that have a lot of climbing. It does get snow on the heavy snow days but can be climbed almost all winter.
For those moist days its Tollhouse or Squarenail.
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chromwells_head
Sep 23, 2005, 6:25 PM
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I grew up on those rocks! I miss Oakhurst sooooooooo bad. been away for four years, waiting to return next year! hope to see you guys when i get back!@
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fng
Sep 23, 2005, 6:55 PM
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chromwells_head,
We could always use a few more experienced locals. Check out the site link above. If we all pitch in it could be a great resorce for us locals for beta and to hook up when your climbing partners wife or girlfriends keeps your partner on the ground.
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alter_nate
Sep 23, 2005, 7:14 PM
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Hi JR,
You are a lucky man to live so close to my favorite stomping grounds! Grahm is indeed the man for Shuteye beta, and I'm sure you've checked out his page. I'll be contributing a wee bit of stuff eventually. Was up there last weekend, along with plenty of hunters.
Yes, the guidebook is ancient and quirky - but contributes significantly to the adventure, which is often a good thing, IMO. I'm most familiar with the balls, squaw dome, chiquito, and a few other obscurities. I have relatives at Bass Lake, so I get up there a handful of times per year. My friend in Clovis is often looking for local partners - maybe he'll chime in.
Have fun out there!
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chromwells_head
Sep 23, 2005, 7:22 PM
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You better beleive ill contact ya when i get back!been away just a little too lonog
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boulderhound
Sep 25, 2005, 5:05 PM
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Hey JR, Send me a pm as well, cause as Alter_Nate said I live in Clovis and am looking for a few locals to go with as well.
Grahm is up in Oakhurst and would be your closest. Nice guy, strong climber and very encouraging. Oh and his wall is Sweeet!!
I know of some obscurities in the area as well as the trade-routes on the known formations.
I lived in Oakhurst in the early 90's and considered Fresno Dome my backyard. Knew every pothole on the road up and once made it to the trailhead within 20 minutes. Ya see it also helped to live on Skyranch Road too!
Jer
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boulderhound
Sep 25, 2005, 5:24 PM
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Yo FNG, where you at? Partner up.
Chromwells_Head, what are you doing in FLA. man. We were in Orlando for a few years and could not wait to see MTNs. again. Get back here, Bro.
Oh and forget your Halloween Deer suit at home or the hunters will put a cap in yer @ss!!
Later, Jer
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sierraclimber1
Sep 25, 2005, 5:27 PM
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We are heading up Wednesday for some Shuteye. :D
I added my home wall to the route and area index for Westrn Sierra. Check it out...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/gym.php?ID=9456
I also started something for Lewis Creek at..
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=9455
Grahm
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chromwells_head
Sep 26, 2005, 1:49 AM
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cant help it guys, my wife is in the navy, and is hopefully going to lemmore soon!
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lisae
Sep 26, 2005, 6:17 PM
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[quote="yosemite"]Tollhouse is a fun place for slab climbing in winter. It's generally above the fog and below the snow. In summer, it can be flat out hot. I was there last week and it was a bit on the warm side until the breeze kicked in. The guide book is adequate to find your way around.
Yosemite,
One of my friends climbed recently Toll House Traverse and described the approach as awful. I've read the guide book and it is a bit vague, so I am not sure it they were doing more bushwhacking than necessary or if it is truly awful. I am want to climb it too, but am not interested if the approach is more difficult than the climb...Any comment or advice?
Thanks!!
lisae
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yosemite
Sep 26, 2005, 7:49 PM
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Lisae,
I wonder if your friend meant the approach to Tollhouse Rock, as oppposed to the Tollhouse Traverse, was awful. The last quarter mile or so of the road is 4 wheel drive country. Don't take the Civic. The approach to the climb itself is maybe 15 minutes on a pretty well defined trail once you get to the wide open area at the top of the 4 wheel hill. The route itself is obvious. I can send you pdf pictures showing the approach and route if you pm your email. It's no big deal and a fun climb for the grade. There are also a bunch of other 5.fun routes there. I've been to Tollhouse several times with my daughters starting when the younger was 10. When I was there 10 days ago, my partner and I had the place to ourselves. In winter, I don't think I've seen more than 8 climbers there. The place also has lots of fatty protection bolts so a mega-trad rack is not needed although you may want some cams/nuts for the Tollhouse Traverse.
Gene
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lisae
Sep 26, 2005, 8:29 PM
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Gene,
He was describing the trail; Anyway, I sent you a pm.
Thanks!!
lisae
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fng
Nov 10, 2005, 7:07 AM
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boulderhound, I live in s/e fresno and grew up in Clovis. I usually go on Fridays and/or Sat but can flex my schedule with some notice. I usually climb with two other guys. Another would be welcome. Let me know and we will hook up.
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