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hikerobby
Oct 25, 2005, 4:30 AM
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I am on a road trip with my gf for a few months and will be coming up from the creek and Moab around Nov 9-11. I am wondering what you all would suggest. I have only done some trad in LCC. I lead 8s comfortably and have done some 9s, so has she.
We will have two climbing days and one non-climbing day. I would like to spend one day at Maple Canyon or AF on the way up from Moab (or even the swell, but it may be much like what I just did in ic and moab). Would you pick Maple or AF? Seems like Maple is more unique and interesting, either way I will probably take the alpine loop anyway.
After one of those sport areas, I'll have a non-climbing day in provo, I might hit rock canyon quick or just get to slc for the evening.
On my third day I've decided on LCC, Lone Peak, or Mt Olympus. I'm wondering if Lone Peak is even plausible then, if so I'm wondering about recomendations of which of those three. I'm kind of leaning towards LCC because it'll be easier to bail.
In LCC would you recomend the thumb (which in length would be similar to one of the other two peak options), or a day of Green Adjective and school room, or multiple short routes like bushwack, callitwhatyouplease, satan's corner, and becky's wall. Thats alot of options, but if i want to convince my gf to move to slc (I want to) than how could I prove that sl is amazing--oly, thumb, or shorter lcc routes?
Lastly, where should we go that I can show that Utah has counter culture and some edge to it. I remember liking sugar house alot, we'll probably go there. Where are some outdoorsy, hippy, fun crowds at? General areas, specific bars, clubs, micro brews, coffee shops, restaraunts, where do people go for music, etc etc. Since the sun will be setting earlier in Nov we'll need hours of stuff to do each night--so the more recomendations the better.
Lastly, will gaurdsmen pass and alpine loop be open? Maybe we could do parkcity one night and go up and over brighton.
thanks. sorry about multiple questions at once.
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gullwing19
Oct 25, 2005, 4:44 AM
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Lone Peak in one day would be quite the hump. If you're looking for a long cruise up great rock then the Thumb isn't it. Only 2-3 really good pitches on the Thumb and really, the best thing about that climb is making a very airy 5.5 move onto the summit pinnacle. After that, the decent makes you wish you had stayed home and raked the leaves like you were supposed to.
If you want a nice, long cruise up amazing LCC granite try the Tingy's link up at the Gate. Start with the Sweet Jane variation to Tarzan (5.7, two pitches) followed by Tingy's Terror (5.7,3 pitches skipping the exit) and then onto Tingy's Torture which adds another 3 pitches at 5.8.
The best part about this linkup are the varied pitches. Finger cracks, laybacks, chimney / offwidth, and 2 of the coolest slab pitches I've ever climbed. The decent is easy as well with a short hike to double raps. The downside is that the pitches are a bit on the short side.
The linkup gets 3 stars soaking wet. Period.
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lenexa
Oct 25, 2005, 5:03 AM
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I like your style. I am looking for a long sweet granite cruise. I thought about the fin arete and aiding the crux, but I thought the thumb would be comparable. Okay, no thumb and no lone peak. I bought a general Utah book for this road trip. Maybe I'll have to look at the ruckman guide b/c Tingeys doesn't have a topo in my utah book.
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lenexa
Oct 25, 2005, 4:30 PM
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I am still familiarizing myself with Utah in the North. I don't know about Oly or LCC except that oly would take all day and lcc would give you lots of options, even bouldering.
I think both those roads will be open but I'm not sure.
You are right about sugar house. That is where I always go when I want to escape provo. It is a little slice of seattle or portlans--really liberal stores along the main street, a raw food restaraunt, and even some organic food stores. I'm assuming you want some organic, liberal joints to go too? If so go to sugarhouse. I actually am not sure of other places, nor where to drink or get coffee. Maybe a sl local can help more than me.
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stevep
Oct 25, 2005, 4:48 PM
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Much of the answer to your question depends on the weather. That time of year could be getting pretty cold in the mostly shaded areas in Maple. That said, it is definitely more unique climbing than AF.
Lone Peak has already had some snow, and could certainly see more by then. Days are getting kind of short and cold to try that. Olympus slabs could also have snow, as they're mostly north facing, and it's not that great of climbing anyway. I'd go with the recommendation of multiple classics in LCC.
And I'd second the recommendation for Sugarhouse. It's where I live, and definitely the most culturally interesting place in SLC. Park City is nice, but definitely more upscale and resorty than funky.
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paganmonkeyboy
Oct 25, 2005, 4:49 PM
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I'd recommend LCC - gullwing's route suggestion is stellar...
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Sugarhouse and the University area/downtown on the east side will be the 'hip' places to check out for nightlife, music is usually downtown, pick up a copy of the SLWeekly somewhere (free) and check it out.
pm me for more info - I'm in sugarhouse...
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ddriver
Oct 25, 2005, 5:18 PM
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In reply to: We will have two climbing days and one non-climbing day. I would like to spend one day at Maple Canyon or AF on the way up from Moab (or even the swell, but it may be much like what I just did in ic and moab). Would you pick Maple or AF? Seems like Maple is more unique and interesting, either way I will probably take the alpine loop anyway.
Maple and AF are to me very comparable in quality. Maple is very different because of the cobbles, it has a lot of moderates, and great camping. If you go to AF the Hard Rock and Escape buttress is the place you should visit, south facing with loads of 10's. Your idea to see both is a good one.
In reply to: After one of those sport areas, I'll have a non-climbing day in provo, I might hit rock canyon quick or just get to slc for the evening.
Don't know why you want to visit Provo, but if you stay there the quartzite at the mouth of Rock Cyn has some really good gear routes.
In reply to: On my third day I've decided on LCC, Lone Peak, or Mt Olympus. I'm wondering if Lone Peak is even plausible then, if so I'm wondering about recomendations of which of those three. I'm kind of leaning towards LCC because it'll be easier to bail.
Lone Peak is too big a day this time of year and it will probably trash the gf. I would climb a day in LCC and one in BCC if you can. In LCC, do the Green A/Schoolroom stuff or do Pentapitch area/Industsrial Wall on the other side of the canyon. Tingey's is good but but descent options can be a little tricky depending on how high you go. If you have a 60-m you can now rap from the 10th pitch with a single rope off to the right and hike back to the base. In BCC look at Challenge Butt./Steort's/High Dive as a linkup.
In reply to: In LCC would you recomend the thumb (which in length would be similar to one of the other two peak options), or a day of Green Adjective and school room, or multiple short routes like bushwack, callitwhatyouplease, satan's corner, and becky's wall. Thats alot of options, but if i want to convince my gf to move to slc (I want to) than how could I prove that sl is amazing--oly, thumb, or shorter lcc routes?
See above. Stay off the longer routes and avoid the thrashing that sometimes comes with them. On the other hand, Pentapitch has a beautiful approach and descent that gf's will enjoy, as well as cascading water.
In reply to: Lastly, where should we go that I can show that Utah has counter culture and some edge to it. I remember liking sugar house alot, we'll probably go there. Where are some outdoorsy, hippy, fun crowds at? General areas, specific bars, clubs, micro brews, coffee shops, restaraunts, where do people go for music, etc etc. Since the sun will be setting earlier in Nov we'll need hours of stuff to do each night--so the more recomendations the better.
Sugar House has that but downtown SLC has more, from about 400 West to 900 East there are plenty of all the above. Pick up a copy of City Weekly to get the music info as well as where to hang out.
In reply to: Lastly, will gaurdsmen pass and alpine loop be open? Maybe we could do parkcity one night and go up and over brighton. thanks. sorry about multiple questions at once.
Guardsman and the Alpine Loop will almost surely both be open, though its high time for the snow to start flying and I'd be surprised if there's not a big change by then.
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veep23
Oct 25, 2005, 8:22 PM
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While Lone Peak is amazing, it is a tough haul to do in a day and I can guarantee you will have zero energy to do anything that night or the next day. I would stick to LCC. Pentapitch is a great multi but may be a little chilly in the November shade. If you want to just have "fun" and not worry too much about descents and route finding, I would recommend doing some 3 star single or two pitch routes like Beckey's, Satan's, Bushwack, etc.
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schveety
Oct 25, 2005, 9:25 PM
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This doesn't answer the OP's question, but I just wanted to say something to DDRIVER, what, you think girls can't hack it, maybe you better rethink what you wrote. I am not a femi-nazi, but keep your male machismo out of the chat room and back in the gym.... And if you didn't realize how rude some people might find your comments about "the gf" then I hope you learn something...
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ddriver
Oct 25, 2005, 11:04 PM
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In reply to: This doesn't answer the OP's question, but I just wanted to say something to DDRIVER, what, you think girls can't hack it, maybe you better rethink what you wrote. I am not a femi-nazi, but keep your male machismo out of the chat room and back in the gym.... And if you didn't realize how rude some people might find your comments about "the gf" then I hope you learn something...
You're not only off topic you're out of line.
For starters, I've been communicating with hikerobby for the last couple days on this thread, his Moab thread and by pm, so I have a little idea of what his and his girlfriend's interests and skills are, but only a little.
I made two references to "the gf," one having to do with climbing Lone Peak. If you've never done it (have you?) then you probably have no idea how brutal a hike it is (5,000 vertical). If he's trying to impress the gf, which he said, that's not the way to do it. It's not the way to impress the boyfriend either.
The other reference was to doing routes that have less bushwacking. I'm not the gf and I don't like bushwacking. There was nothing sexist about it. I did imply that maybe the gf would appreciate the cascades, sorry if that offends you. I like the cascades.
Now, I don't climb in a gym anymore, so quit slandering me.
And as to whether girls can hack it, my wife has climbed with me for more than 15 years, on peaks like the Lotus Flower Tower, the Liberty Bell, the Midi, the Tofane, the Naranjo, etc., etc. I have no doubt she can hack it. Here's a photo of her getting ready to kick your ass.
http://img136.imageshack.us/...32/dscn0907aa1dx.jpg
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hikerobby
Oct 25, 2005, 11:40 PM
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You guys are great! I really like this site. And thanks to those of you who have helped on this and my Moab thread.
(p.s. driver your wife must be sneaky because she looks pretty nice, not the ass-kicking type you know) :D
I think I'll need a better guide book b/c I can't find all of your suggestions. Perhaps the Wasatch book will be better.
I am going to spend a day, not in provo, but in Mapleton/hobble creek canyon/maybe midway b/c I'll be visiting an old friend who lives near Provo.
I thought the church owned most of downtown so I didn't want to hang there, I heard the dt mall sucked and the new one out west was all chain stores. I want interesting stuff not chains. I guess I'll go downtown. If anyone has specific coffee shops, organic eats, brews, bars, let me know.
I'll find a wasatch book and ask questions about routes another day. I do like the suggestion about tingeys. I would like a fun long cruise to do in the morning and finish the evening with five stars like becky, santan, callitwhatyouplease, bushwack etc. I checked out the fin on lenexa's pm but it is to difficult for us unless we aided the crux. Which is totally doable and the rest is only 5.9.
This is starting to shape up well.
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schveety
Oct 26, 2005, 4:16 PM
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DDRIVER.....I apologize for jumping to conclusions :oops: , I did not know that you were familiar with his girlfriend, but I am sure that you can see how someone just reading the post might become offended by a reference to "the gf", it's like calling someone "my woman". I have never done the climb or approach in question, but I am sure I could hack it and I've done plenty of bushwacking. P.S. I hope your wife doesn't kick my ass, she looks like a strong lady, and I hope to be kicking some ass and bushwacking when I've been climbing for 15 years.........
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atg200
Oct 27, 2005, 1:09 PM
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The downtown malls are definitely stale, but aren't all malls stale? Just get south of 100 South and you'll be out of the worst of Templetown.
What kind of bars and places to hang are you looking for exactly? My favorite dive bar in the city is the Twilight on 300 S and around 300 E. Best place to get beer(for real beer, not utah beer) is the Bayou on State and 600 S. Ego's across the street from the Bayou can be a fun place to see awful live music - the bits I remember about seeing Hells Belles(female AC/DC cover band) earlier this year were all positive.
My favorite place to get coffee is the Mill Creek Roasting company on 2100 S and 1000 E or so in Sugarhouse. There is an airier hangout type coffee shop on 2100 S and maybe 1200 E that is a decent spot to try to pretend that you are in Boulder. Good pool haul just south of that hippy coffee shop called Fats, and lots of funky stores that you can walk between.
9th and 9th is also a good spot for that sort of thing. Also the little area around 1700 S and 1700 Eish - just look up the bookstore the King's English. There is an absolutely great restaraunt there called Fresco's, and the King's English is a good bookstore for the chain hater.
Another must hit bar close to the canyons is the Cotton Bottom on 6200 S just east of I-215. The garlic burgers are great, though they curse you with the foulest belches imaginable for the rest of the day. The Hog's Wallow is a great pseudo dive on the Big Cottonwood road that heads downhill from Ft Union just east of the Porcupine and Canyon Inn(both worthy in their own right too).
Salt Lake has lots of little 2 and 3 block pockets of sanity surrounded by seas of blandness. The key to dialing in the city is to find them. I still have a lot to learn about the area, but thats a start.
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lenexa
Oct 27, 2005, 6:38 PM
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9th south and 9th east is a decent area
you might want to drive up city creek or emigration canyon, they both have good restaraunts in them: Ruths and something else (moon something?)
Red rock brewery in the gastronomy district isn't bad, look up that and the NewYorker and Met and you'll be there and those aren't chains they're expensive though and maybe not the Boulderesque crowd, but red rock is cool
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hikerobby
Oct 27, 2005, 6:58 PM
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What kind are we looking for?
Well to compare it to other places, bars like mountain sun (not like walnut) and coffee chops like trident in Boulder; coffee shops like flagstaff; a pub like Jack of the Wood in Asheville.
I like your idea of pretending I'm in boulder. We've liked Boulder, Asheville, Flagstaff, Bend, and other towns, but they are all expensive, thats why I wouldn't mind slc.
Lets be honest, we're both hippys to a degree; but I just like a cool, liberal, outdoorsy crowd--though we're not limited to that. I like seeing ads for Yoga, TaiChai, peace ralleys, anti-bush sentiment (in utah? is it possible?) etc. on the walls of joints, but mostly cool down-to-earth people.
We don't even drink much, we go to bars for music. We spend a lot of time in coffee shops and causual organic retaraunts, so any of that will be a big seller.
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hikerobby
Oct 27, 2005, 7:00 PM
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What kind are we looking for?
Well to compare it to other places, bars like mountain sun (not like walnut) and coffee chops like trident in Boulder; coffee shops like flagstaff; a pub like Jack of the Wood in Asheville.
I like your idea of pretending I'm in boulder. We've liked Boulder, Asheville, Flagstaff, Bend, and other towns, but they are all expensive, thats why I wouldn't mind slc.
Lets be honest, we're both hippys to a degree; but I just like a cool, liberal, outdoorsy crowd--though we're not limited to that. I like seeing ads for Yoga, TaiChai, peace ralleys, anti-bush sentiment (in utah? is it possible?) etc. on the walls of joints, but mostly cool down-to-earth people.
We don't even drink much, we go to bars for music. We spend a lot of time in coffee shops and causual organic retaraunts, so any of that will be a big seller.
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hikerobby
Oct 27, 2005, 7:14 PM
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forgot to mention, she is vegan and I'm vegie. If any stores or restaraunts exist I'd like to know. But we're used to going to normal places and getting whatever they have
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ddriver
Oct 27, 2005, 8:24 PM
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I'm not very good at remembering names of places, but I'll try. Vegan restaurant options: Sage's at 500 E 300 S and Oasis Cafe at 500 E 200 S. Others: Evergreen (thai) at 1500 S State, Mazza (Lebanese) at 15th and 15th, Bombay (Indian) Foothills Blvd and 23rd S, East-West (Viet/Thai), Foothills and 23rd S., Red Iguana (Mexican) West Temple and 500 W, Cafe Molise (Italian) 200/300 S and W Temple. Locations are approx. These are all pretty good and you can get vegan dishes if you ask.
Look for coffee houses at 9th and 9th or in SugarHouse at 2100 S and 1300 E area.
Wild Oats has 3 grocery stores here: Sugar House, downtown at 300 E and 400 S, Midvale at Highland (20th E) and Ft Union (Big Cottonwood Rd). There are other local grocery stores but these are easy to find.
Sounds like you'd like a place called Dancing Cranes. Its mostly imports retail but they have their own little cafe, you can get massages, etc. I'm sure the folks there could direct you wherever you want. They're just W. of 700 E. at about 24th S.
If you decide to visit a climbing shop I would recommend IME. They will treat you right. Its next door to the REI on 33rd S. about 30th E. near I-215. Second choice would be the BD shop on 39th S. near 23rd E.
If I got addresses wrong someone correct me.
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atg200
Oct 27, 2005, 9:22 PM
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when you get here, pick up a copy of the salt lake weekly free newspaper. you'll find concert listings, slander against right wingers, and advertisements for "sensual massages" galore - its like the village voice in nyc or the westword in denver.
salt lake is funny in that the politics are either very right wing or very left wing. slc itself(downtown, sugarhouse, the avenues, etc) tend to be way left and the suburbs(sandy, west jordan, murray, etc) tend to be way right. just turn around when you start seeing lots of scrapbooking stores and pancake houses and you'll be ok.
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marc801
Oct 27, 2005, 9:41 PM
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In reply to: ...Red Iguana (Mexican) West Temple and 500 W,.... If I got addresses wrong someone correct me.
The Red Iguana, the best Mexican in the Valley, is on North Temple, at 736 W. It's on the north side of the street. Expect a wait on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Of the dozen or so choices for sushi, Takashi, next to the New Yorker on Market Street (one block long, runs between West Temple and Main at 350 South) is the best. Ichiban, 360 S 400 E is an excellent second choice.
For Viet, I prefer Cafe Trang (850 S. Main) over the aforementioned East-West.
Good brew pubs are Squatters, 147 West Broadway (300 S) and Red Rock Brewery 254 S 200 W.
A quick side question for the OP: do you understand how addresses work in Salt Lake City and the rest of Utah?
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atg200
Oct 27, 2005, 9:43 PM
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i haven't been to takashi yet, but i like shogun on main around 300 S better than ichiban. i've always thought ichiban was a really cool space with fairly average food.
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tenesmus
Oct 27, 2005, 9:55 PM
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In reply to: forgot to mention, she is vegan and I'm vegie. If any stores or restaraunts exist I'd like to know. But we're used to going to normal places and getting whatever they have |
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lizardsdb
Oct 27, 2005, 10:07 PM
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i would second the recomendation of sages and oasis cafe. both very yummy. if you are into politics and are going to be downtown on friday night there is a "drinking liberally" group that meets at desert edge brew pub starting at 6 every friday night. they will be there til 9 or 10.
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lenexa
Oct 28, 2005, 2:55 AM
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In reply to: just turn around when you start seeing lots of scrapbooking stores and pancake houses and you'll be ok.
So true!! That's hilarious. And no matter what, stay away from 90th south and below! Beware of provo/orem. Visit your friend somewhere else.
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hikerobby
Nov 1, 2005, 4:34 PM
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I heard the snow is sticking in SLC. Lone peak and Olympus are out for sure. Anyone know about LCC, are upper routes inaccessible but lower routes good?? What about alpine loop and guardsman pass?
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