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stickclipper


Nov 2, 2005, 5:40 PM
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stickclipper


Nov 3, 2005, 1:33 AM
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Re: Caldwell, Nose/Freerider, greatest ever? [In reply to]
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C'mon, now. No takers?


mistymountainhop


Nov 3, 2005, 1:43 AM
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I have a pet golden retriever that can balance a ball on his nose.


musicman


Nov 3, 2005, 1:47 AM
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i got my black lab to do it with a dog treat


paganmonkeyboy


Nov 3, 2005, 2:07 AM
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Re: Caldwell, Nose/Freerider, greatest ever? [In reply to]
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messier, everest, 24 hr solo, alone - greatest climb *ever* ?
apples to zucchini - they just don't compare at some levels

and yes - i think caldwell's is on par with some of the other athletic feats you list. if it were easy, it would be called sport climbing.../ducks :D


kalcario


Nov 3, 2005, 2:26 AM
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*if it were easy, it would be called sport climbing.../ducks*

sport climbing...you mean, like, clipping fixed pro? hangdogging/toproping pitches into submission? leaving gear in place for the redpoint after it's been weighted? sorry, but once you start using sport tactics, you're not trad climbing anymore, you're sport climbing.


Partner euroford


Nov 3, 2005, 1:48 PM
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Re: Caldwell, Nose/Freerider, greatest ever? [In reply to]
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I hope someday Caldwell switches over to the alpine game.

elcap linkups and freeroutes are uber impressive, and i'd say he's finally done perhaps the ultimate free linkup, but i would like to see him branch out to some more intresting wilderness.

IMO: i'm more impressed by Steve House and Vince Andersons route up the Rupal Face and the couple of recent free routes on Great Trango.


mistymountainhop


Nov 3, 2005, 3:06 PM
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In reply to:
I hope someday Caldwell switches over to the alpine game.

elcap linkups and freeroutes are uber impressive, and i'd say he's finally done perhaps the ultimate free linkup, but i would like to see him branch out to some more intresting wilderness.

IMO: i'm more impressed by Steve House and Vince Andersons route up the Rupal Face and the couple of recent free routes on Great Trango.


Would peak bagging by in Tommys bag? It seems as if most alpinists are older climbers whose tendons have worn out, i can see myself as well as many other climbers doing that later on.
It is arguable whether the Valley has seen anything as endurance intensive, but what else could he do? Thats pretty rugged, and call me a pessimist, but what could be accomplished in the near future by anyone that could match or surpass Mr. Caldwell's latest feat? Maybe NW reg, Steck Salathe', the Nose and FreeRider in a day, then he could do 1000 pushups and call it a day. The Nose/Freerider seems too futuristic, and what i wonder is if or when a feat lke this could be done again.

Musicman---- your A Fr-eaking moron.


joshy8200


Nov 3, 2005, 3:17 PM
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Re: Caldwell, Nose/Freerider, greatest ever? [In reply to]
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Some people on super-topo are calling him the "greatest free-climber ever!" And calling this one of the "greatest athletic achievements EVER!"

Slow down.
Greatest athletic achievements ever?
This isn't Jesse Owens winning a truckload of gold medals right in Hitler's face. Or Mark Spitz winning 7 gold medals and setting however many world records in the process (1972). It sure as heck ain't Gretzky completely rewriting the hockey record books.

Greatest free-climber ever? Probably not.

How about greatest free-climbing achievement in the past 15+ years?

Even in the realm of free-climbing link-ups, it's not without comparison.

A few examples from recent years:

Dean Potter freed El Cap and Half-Dome in a day. The feat is not at the same level of technical difficulty... but there is more approach/descent travel to get between the two faces. Potter fell once, on the crux of Freerider, at 3AM, after having climbed Half-Dome. To me, this is (at least) a stepping stone towards what Tommy did. Yet I've not seen it mentioned in any of the Tommy-is-God threads.

Mike Pennings and Jeff Hollenbaugh climbed the three major walls of the Black Canyon in a day. Josh Wharton and Thad Friday repeated this feat. Granted, it is at a much lower free standard, but it requires far more arduous/complicated descents etc to complete the linkage.

Link-ups are and have been all the rage in Chamonix for years. There are numerous examples. Christophe Profit garnered a lot of press by soloing the Three Great North Faces of the Alps in 24 hours (this was further back...mid-1980s, I believe).

For a more recent, less related example: Michael Reardon completed the Palisade Traverse in 24 hours. That is mind-blowing. The previous fastest ascent was 7 days. Admittedly, that ascent was not made by "world-class climbers," but still. This gets a paragraph in Hot Flashes and minimal mentioning on the internet. Methinks it deserves far more.

And, an obvious comparison: Lynn Hill freeing the Nose in a day way back in 1994. Let's see if Tommy's feat remains unrepeated for 11 years.

Climbers top the performances of their predecessors. It happens. But look at it with a little context, a little perspective.

I'm not saying that those mentioned above "top" Caldwell's recent performance, but let's not act like there is no one else completing audacious free-climbing and/or link-up feats.

Or, as the Wolf said in Pulp Fiction, "Let's not start sucking each others
d---- just yet."

Love the Pulp Fiction quote, and the other examples of super feats. But THIS FEAT is the Nose free in under 12 hrs and then, AND THEN, freeing Freerider in sub 12 hours. Lynn Hill's free ascent of the nose in a day WAS,IS,AND WILL be a HISTORIC athletic achievement. Tommy just put a BIG one up on a HISTORIC achievement. Freeing the Nose in a day was like Roger Banister breaking the 4minute mile. There was a previous mark that no one felt could be broken. Tommy's freeing the Nose and Freerider smashed a bar set 12 years ago.

---The longest-standing world record in the mile was 4:01.4, set by Gunder Haegg of Sweden on July 17, 1945. It stood for eight years, 293 days before Bannister broke it.


marc801


Nov 3, 2005, 3:23 PM
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In reply to:
sport climbing...you mean, like, clipping fixed pro? hangdogging/toproping pitches into submission? leaving gear in place for the redpoint after it's been weighted? sorry, but once you start using sport tactics, you're not trad climbing anymore, you're sport climbing.
Just for historical perspective, all those techniques and tactics existed and were used long before there was anything called "sport" climbing. Some called them siege tactics and the absolute semantic purists felt it was a form of aid. However, a lot of notable 'first free ascents' of the 70's and 80's were done in just that manner.


stickclipper


Nov 3, 2005, 3:31 PM
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Re: Caldwell, Nose/Freerider, greatest ever? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I hope someday Caldwell switches over to the alpine game.

elcap linkups and freeroutes are uber impressive, and i'd say he's finally done perhaps the ultimate free linkup, but i would like to see him branch out to some more intresting wilderness.

IMO: i'm more impressed by Steve House and Vince Andersons route up the Rupal Face and the couple of recent free routes on Great Trango.

I, too, am curious to see what Caldwell does over the next decade.
(and yeah, the Azeem ridge on Trango was ridiculous)

Freeing El Cap is an impressive athletic/physical achievement... but I don't think it contains the same level of adventure/risk/commitment that Trango/Rupal face etc do.

Anyway, Caldwell basically owns El Cap free climbing. I'd bet that the Nose sees a free repeat before the Dihedral Wall does.

I would like to see one of the El Cap kings go and onsight (or come close to) Cowboy Direct, Skinner's Grade VII 13a free route on Trango. (Houlding, Caldwell, Yuji, somebody...)

I wonder if Yuji has considered it... He's one of the few in the world who would have a shot at it. (C'mon, first free onsight of a grade VII!)

As far as alpinism... I dunno. I've heard Caldwell wasn't much into soloing... high level alpinism pretty much requires it. Perhaps he prefers the (relatively) safer game he's playing now. He's obviously bold, so who knows.

What ever happened with his trip to Baffin Island to try and free a wall? Did that fall through?


Partner angry


Nov 3, 2005, 3:35 PM
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Re: Caldwell, Nose/Freerider, greatest ever? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
--The longest-standing world record in the mile was 4:01.4, set by Gunder Haegg of Sweden on July 17, 1945. It stood for eight years, 293 days before Bannister broke it.

Here's what I find exciting about this. After Roger Bannister broke the 4 minute mile, something like 5 other runners broke 4 minutes that same year. It was the mental barrier that sub 4 could be achieved.

Any similarities/conclusions?

It should be an interesting year for the worlds elite.


kalcario


Nov 3, 2005, 4:21 PM
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*I would like to see one of the El Cap kings go and onsight (or come close to) Cowboy Direct, Skinner's Grade VII 13a free route on Trango. (Houlding, Caldwell, Yuji, somebody...)*

The Pou brothers from Basque country, who did (3rd ascent?) El Nino and tried to free the Nose, got bouted on the Eternal Flame route on Trango because of bad weather which is much more of a factor at 20,000 feet than it is on El Cap...


paganmonkeyboy


Nov 3, 2005, 4:26 PM
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Re: Caldwell, Nose/Freerider, greatest ever? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Here's what I find exciting about this. After Roger Bannister broke the 4 minute mile, something like 5 other runners broke 4 minutes that same year. It was the mental barrier that sub 4 could be achieved.

interesting point...curious to see how the bar keeps getting raised, so to speak...


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