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amd618
Nov 5, 2005, 12:55 AM
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im really new to bouldering, more of a wall guy myself, but im really unsure how you measure a dyno. so you have two hands on the wall, lets say, and your left hand is lower than your right one, but you grab the next hold you dynoed to get to with your left. is the measure from your left hand to left hand, or is it from the highest hand? or is it from the feet? i know it doesnt matter and im not concerned, i was just curious because i heard the world record was something like 9 or 10 feet, does that sound right?
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mcfoley
Nov 5, 2005, 1:02 AM
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last hold touched to finish hold....
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spikeyhair13
Nov 5, 2005, 2:03 AM
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9-10 foot dyno? this i want to see. anyone have a pic or a vid?
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aznrockclimber82
Nov 5, 2005, 2:57 AM
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I've seen the video (though I don't remember where), and it's true, I think it was 9 and some change...it was more like a sideways and high dyno...at a dyno comp of course and they'd keep changing out the hold to the next bolt hole...it was pretty cool.
To answer the original poster, a dyno is measured from where your hands are set to the hold that you are throwing to. In other words if one of your hands is higher, the dyno is from that higher hold to the finish hold. That's the distance you measure.
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rock_fencer
Nov 5, 2005, 4:54 AM
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ya the guy set the new dyno world record. its in R&I or climbing, one of the mags. 3 meters or something like that on if i remember correctly its a 45 degree wall and they push the holds further and further.
Dyno's are fun especially from under roofs.
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rastafari
Nov 5, 2005, 3:23 PM
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Think the record is 2 metres 75 cm
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overlord
Nov 5, 2005, 4:24 PM
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In reply to: To answer the original poster, a dyno is measured from where your hands are set to the hold that you are throwing to. In other words if one of your hands is higher, the dyno is from that higher hold to the finish hold. That's the distance you measure.
what he said.
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rastafari
Nov 5, 2005, 5:40 PM
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He said: Dyno meris od vije drečega grifa(če začne na dveh in je en vije k drugi) do grifa na katerga se vrzes.
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lvclimbingbum
Nov 18, 2005, 12:04 AM
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It depends on how tall the person is. If the person is tall, it's easier. I think that you should get how tall the person it, and then subtract the distance from their tallest hand to the hold they're going to. The smaller the number, the harder it is. That way the grade is customized for the person. New idea.
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bennydh
Nov 18, 2005, 1:15 AM
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I don't think height matters for a dyno. I'm 5'7" and I dyno further than the guys boasting a heights of 6'. I think that if one was to start adding or subtractinng menial numbers, then they should consider more important factors. Im 5'7", but I'm light and my strength to weight ratio is particularly good.
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deserteaglle
Nov 18, 2005, 10:10 PM
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In reply to: It depends on how tall the person is. If the person is tall, it's easier. I think that you should get how tall the person it, and then subtract the distance from their tallest hand to the hold they're going to. The smaller the number, the harder it is. That way the grade is customized for the person. New idea.
Gay idea. :|
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balbus
Nov 21, 2005, 2:30 AM
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the article is in Climbing magazine's March 2005 issue, on page 23. the article reads:
Stefan Hadfield has set a new Guinness world record (yes, there is such a thing) by leaping 2.7 meters - nearly nine feet - between holds. Hadfield made his body-length-and-a-half leap in Auckland, New Zealand, besting the old mark by 10 centimeters.
"Official" dyno contests are held on a 20-degree overhanging wall, with two large starting holds and a ladder of identical footholds to choose from. Contestants leap up and left at a 45-degree angle to catch a jug that is moved progressively farther from the starting hold. In 2002, Matt Heason of Britain set the old mark at 2.6 meters. Katherine Schirrmacher holds the women's record of 1.9 meters.
For impressive video of the 2002 contest, go to www.bendcrete.com/dynocomp/.
thats the whole article, enjoy. later
Brian
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mr_shenanigans
Nov 21, 2005, 8:06 PM
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Yes its quite impressive 2.7meters=8ft 10inches. infact he shattered the old record by 5 or 6 inches. But you should all talk a look at the video, hes about 6ft 7, he has a slight advantage...
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jupalon
Nov 22, 2005, 2:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2005
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So where can I find the video of which you speak?
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climberboy193838
Nov 22, 2005, 4:27 PM
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In reply to: It depends on how tall the person is. If the person is tall, it's easier. I think that you should get how tall the person it, and then subtract the distance from their tallest hand to the hold they're going to. The smaller the number, the harder it is. That way the grade is customized for the person. New idea.
Yeah but some shorter people can get higher feet than taller people. You really cant judge by height. Ive seen tall people that cant dyno at all. Im just breaking 5 foot tall and some of my shorter friends can dyno higher than me, so height doesnt matter.
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