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boadman
Nov 18, 2005, 11:09 PM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
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The newest generation of Trango cams are really nice, and nearly as cheap, you might as well by them instead. Or, get some Wild Country Forged Friends, oldest, lightest, strongest, shiniest, and nearly the cheapest cams on the market. I use them for all of my doubles, how many horizontal placements are you going to make on your average pitch? (unless you live in the gunks). I would suggest getting the new trangos or aliens in the small sizes, and getthing the WC forged friends in the larger ones. Have fun.
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tradklime
Nov 19, 2005, 12:15 AM
Post #27 of 35
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In reply to: That won't change that there is a very real safety problem with the largest Pulsars and Cassin cams.
fshizzle, I think you miss-typed this one 'cause I know you like the larger pulsars.
The two largest pulsar cams are quite nice and are really light for their size. Can't speak for the rest, but the pulsars appear to have corrected many the problems with the first generation robots and you can't find a better value for large cams (the 6 is approximately the same as the old #4 camalot and the 7 is approximately an old #4.5 camalot).
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angry
Nov 19, 2005, 10:48 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Word
I meant the robots
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pico23
Nov 20, 2005, 11:01 PM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Mar 14, 2003
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The middle lobes are narrow making them slightly more prone to walking (robots). However, they are decent cams, well made, and will get the job done.
Smaller sizes are better though.
Same as the trango flex cam.
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markc
Nov 21, 2005, 2:20 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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In reply to: He might be talking about their tendency to come out, not their breaking strength. It doesn't matter how strong they are if they fall out. The cam lobes are too close on the big units, end of discussion. This cannot be corrected with any length of sling. The Pulsars are a much better cam.
He might be talking about that, and I've already pointed it out myself. However, it would be an assumption on our part, as he made a very general statement and didn't support it. I'm the first to admit I'm picky about language. I'm not trying to be an ass, I'm trying to point out what I feel is a misleading statement.
In reply to: You can flame me, tell me to climb more, get more experience, and to stop being a n00b. That won't change that there is a very real safety problem with the largest [Robots] and Cassin cams. I'm not some gumby talking out my ass, I have spent about 150 days outside on the rock this year alone, one day was spent sport climbing and I don't boulder, guess what I was doing the rest of the time. Maybe I know what I'm talking about eh'?
You both have the right to your opinions, and I haven't questioned either of your experience. I felt a comment was misleading and replied. Happy climbing, you're certainly getting more of it in than I am.
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garrettweaver
Nov 21, 2005, 3:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
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Hey I'm new to the forum. My name is Garrett Weaver and I'm from the Adirondacks in NY. I've been Trad leading for about a year. I wanted to respond to the comment about rock empire cams. They are great. I use them myself. Granted I only climb routes that have good protection and up to an 5.8 level. I have taken about 5 falls on my empire cams. Granted they weren't whippers, but they were about 10 foot falls. The cams held great. Also, acme climbing is a great website. Go for the rock empire cams. Unless you are planning on doing any 5.10 R and X routes they will work great.
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thrmaln
Nov 21, 2005, 4:40 PM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Mar 4, 2005
Posts: 160
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I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. I looked at the RE cams and had planned on getting some, since one of my climbing partners loves them and has no complaints. However, with the vast array of cams coming into the market with the increased expansion ratio I thought it best to bight the bullet and get the new fangled stuff. Not that RE has any issues, and I feel equally as safe on my gear as well as my friends Robots. I see it this way, Cams and gear are items you will most likely have for a very long time and in the long run the increased price gets spread over a long amount of time as well. Why buy what some consider an entry set or good for your first set, when you can get increased usability by buying other brands as you can afford it and not have to upgrade. Although, RE stuff is still just fine and I only mention the upgrade as others see RE gear in that light. I just bought one or two per paycheck and in no time I had enough gear to call it a rack. I have #1 & #2 Maxcams and size 1-3 C4's, 6 Aliens for the smaller stuff and a set of nuts. My partner and I consolidate gear and it works out great. I like the maxcams A Lot. The added range is nice when I just want to shove something in when I am sketched out. Also the maxcams and C4's sling colors and sizes correspond to each other which is nice.
So in the end, buy what you like. If it turns out the RE is what you want for whatever reason (cost, double stem, comfort) then thats fine. Whatever you choose will be just fine, some cams walk more then others, some have other issues, but you will learn the idiosyncrasies of your own gear and begin to feel safe regardless of the brand. Buy your gear and get out and have some fun, that is what it is all about.
Best regards,
Marc Webster
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statusfreejoy
Nov 21, 2005, 5:30 PM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
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In reply to: Word I meant the robots
Angry-
Based on your two posts in this thread, I am unclear if you think all the RE Pulsars suck except the two biggest ones, or if you think just the RE Robots suck hard and the Pulsars in general are decent?
thanks
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straightedge
Nov 21, 2005, 5:48 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Oct 16, 2003
Posts: 34
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Answer: Worth it. Rock Empire cams are inexpensive but good quality cams.
Cam lobe size is the same in the Robots, Comets, and Durangos, and all three types suffer from too little overlap between sizes. Is it a big problem for someone placing gear? Generally, no. Very rarely do I always have the perfect sized piece for every placement on a route - you can only carry so much gear. Getting a placement within the limitations of what you are carrying is part of the art of leading.
The Pulsars are the newest line of RE cams and address the overlap problem of the earlier models as well as expand the range covered by the cams. And they are light for the size too.
My favorites are the Pulsars and the Comets.
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