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knightstreet
Nov 22, 2005, 9:04 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2005
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Hi,
New to Calgary (Canada), need guidance to best sport routes in/near the rockies and a ticklist which should include anything up to about 5.12b and also should include the best 5.12b to tick since there would be no point in training harder for a rubbish route.
Preferably single pitch and close to the road as I'm lazy and my partner sure as hell will be if I have anything to do with it.
Also, where do climbers hang out in Calgary - is there a pub they go to or some such den of inequity where I can train my thirstbuds and partake in spurious bull? Not an indoor wall preferably - although I've heard that some of these climber types hang out there in order to 'get pumped' and the likes....
Cheers,
CB.
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bustloose
Nov 22, 2005, 9:53 PM
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it's called a guidebook... perhaps look into getting one.
and i do beleive it's winter up there right about now... good like finding climbers if you're afraid to hit a gym...
but failing all that hard work, you can rely on the advice of kind strangers. when the snow melts, for sure head to Burstall, and Grassi... 2 of the best sport crags in western canada.
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ghosthaunter
Nov 22, 2005, 10:00 PM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2005
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yeah that burstall, great sport crag, short approach too :lol:
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knightstreet
Nov 22, 2005, 10:16 PM
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Cheers Buttloose,
I've got a guidebook - sarcasticpants.
I'm not 'afraid' of gyms, I'm just a bit gym intolerant sometimes.
Thanks for telling me the season, I wondered why my brass monkeys were frozen.
CB.
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knightstreet
Nov 23, 2005, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2005
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Dude(ess),
Are you telling me that all the routes in the rockies are crap? The post was to ask for recommendations of good routes - here's a sample reply to get you started:
=EXAMPLE BEGINS=
Hi CB,
I did 'Gripped to f*ck' in Slackmoose Canyon and it was totally awesome. Totally recommend it dude. It's a series of sick shapes to start with leading up a ramp to some way radical roof manouvres onto a hanging slab finish that has some of the smeeist slopers I've ever bore witness to. Total tick fodder.
AClimber.
=EXAMPLE ENDS=
Obviously it doesn't have to be as *STUPID* as this one - it's just an example in the style of retarded surfspeak.
Don't make me hate this country any more than I already do.....(*)
CB
* That was a joke, so don't go getting all precious about your country on me.
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lhwang
Nov 23, 2005, 9:33 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2005
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Hey there... welcome to Calgary. Don't lose hope... I went rocklimbing last Sunday and if the weather holds, there may be a bit more to come. I'm more of a trad multipitcher myself and I don't climb as hard as you, but here are my suggestions:
Grassi would indeed fit many of your criteria... close to the road, easy access, lots of routes. Wear a helmet because goats and occasionally hikers sometimes knock rocks over the edge. "Meathooks" (5.11a) is a classic, and I quite like "Graceland" (5.10d).
Heart Creek is a very easy approach and one of the closest crags to Calgary. Off the top of my head, "You oughta know" (5.9+) is fun.
Lake Louise has so many nice routes on quartzite (good place to learn trad if you're ever interested). I like The Search (5.10b), and I love the exposure on Heart of Darkness (5.10b, 10b/c).
Barrier is another good option. About a 30 minute approach, pretty easy trail. Rainbow Bridge (5.10b) is awesome but you do need a cam.
I would also highly recommend Sea of Dreams on Guides' Rock. It's about a 45 minute approach and I know you mentioned you're looking for single pitch... This one's 6 pitches but well worth it. The hardest pitch is 5.10d.
If you can manage a weekend trip next spring, Skaha (near Penticton BC) is about 6-7 hours away and has hundreds of sport climbs.
If you're looking for climbing partners, I've heard the Calgary Mountain Club (CMC) described as a drinking club with a climbing problem. Have a look for their website... I think they have weekly get-togethers.
Have fun, PM if you have any other questions.
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knightstreet
Nov 23, 2005, 9:58 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2005
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Hi,
Thanks for the reply, good info there. I'll check them out - probably after winter though, getting a bit chilly now!
Looked at some of your photos, nice.
CB
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jred
Nov 23, 2005, 10:59 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2003
Posts: 750
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You should try to check out Carrot Creek, keep a low profile and don't go too often. Carrot has some of my favorite 5.12's of all time. Try the Wizzard and surrounding routes for some good times. Stoneworks is a fairly cool area (long hike though), once you are there everything is fairly close together. Bataan is nice as well (another long hike,sorry). The back of the lake is amazing try "Female hands", Dew Line, Nobody's Girl or almost anything there. There are far too many good areas to mention, you are going to enjoy yourself.
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lhwang
Nov 26, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2005
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This has been discussed in other posts so I'm not going to rehash everything here... but you should just be aware that there is a voluntary closure in effect for Carrot Creek.
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