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atg200
Jan 12, 2006, 2:45 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Nice TR, and great photos. When I did it a few years ago I didn't think it was as loose as I expected it would be, but I guess i had a full on horror show built up in my mind. In any case, it makes the Fisher Towers look pretty solid. Not a typical 5.8 free climb :)
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iceisnice
Jan 13, 2006, 3:05 AM
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
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i thought it was a great route. i had a blast on it. partner bailed on the hike in and i had to do a roped solo ascent. i thought the rock wasn't as bad as people let on. its alpine afterall.
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piquaclimber
Jan 13, 2006, 3:39 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2004
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I thought that the "standard" route looked like a much better outing when we rappelled it. Wide maybe but on much better rock. Which route were you on? Either way, that's a nice rope-solo tick. Congrats.
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atg200
Jan 13, 2006, 2:07 PM
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i think i did the same first pitch as you, but definitely a different second pitch. the chimney had running water in it, so i bouldered up a scary overhang with no gear around the corner to the right, and then got into a mellow 5.4ish ramp system.
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iceisnice
Jan 13, 2006, 3:21 PM
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yeah, i did th "standard" route. i thought that was a pretty sweet little pitch. the last pitch i did sounds like the one atg200 soloed. it had a steep start that lead to a right slanting crack and the a left slanting ledge. it was exposed, but fun. hats off to albert ellingwood for the first ascent. those guys were truly hardcore. not like us wusses today.
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atg200
Jan 13, 2006, 6:37 PM
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i wasn't soloing, but that is definitely the pitch i did iceisnice. i just couldn't get any gear that i liked(i think i had a bad tricam and a bad alien) going over the little overhang so it felt like a boulder problem.
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zozo
Jan 13, 2006, 6:43 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2004
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In reply to: i wasn't soloing, but that is definitely the pitch i did iceisnice. i just couldn't get any gear that i liked(i think i had a bad tricam and a bad alien) going over the little overhang so it felt like a boulder problem.
Did you do this with skibby by any chance? This route sounds familiar and I think she was recommending it big time.
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atg200
Jan 13, 2006, 9:20 PM
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yeah, my brother and i took her up it. its a fun route, but you need to be very solid on loose 5.8
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piquaclimber
Jan 14, 2006, 1:08 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2004
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You guys are crazy. :) I looked at that traverse out left from the chimney and decided that committing to those steep moves on loose rock with bad gear was less appealing that continuing up the chimney.
That being said, the party ahead of us went your way and the chimney was where the rope knocked a rock down at my wife. I had a moment where I thought my life could change and all of a sudden I cared a lot less whether or not I stood on that chossy thing. It's quite possible that I would remember the climb much more favorably if that had not happened.
Did you rap from the pile of rocks that looked like a cairn or was there another anchor at the topout after you traversed left?
The only place I have climbed with worse rock is the Ames Wall.
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iceisnice
Jan 14, 2006, 1:27 AM
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ahhh.....ames wall.......so sweet.
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slobmonster
Jan 14, 2006, 1:30 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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Having made the mistake of attempting an ascent of Lizard Head Peak in January, wearing telemark boots, during a high "wind event," I can attest to the formation's ugly reputation. Ugh!
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