|
caniwi
Jan 15, 2006, 4:56 AM
Post #1 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2006
Posts: 7
|
I have just started lead climbing low grade sport routes (5.6-5.9) and was wondering if you guys have any thoughts as to what diameter of rope I should be buying? :?
|
|
|
|
|
styndall
Jan 15, 2006, 5:35 AM
Post #2 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741
|
Find the cheapest 10.5 you can. You'll want it burly for a lot of use.
|
|
|
|
|
ccarver99
Jan 15, 2006, 5:58 AM
Post #3 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2005
Posts: 58
|
I find that a 10.2 works great...its lightweight and easy to handle but yet there is enough there for plenty of use.
|
|
|
|
|
mistertyler
Jan 15, 2006, 5:59 AM
Post #4 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 197
|
In general, smaller-diameter ropes are lighter, less durable, less edge-resistant, and stretch more. The various characteristics of the crag where you'll be using the rope will affect which factors you should pay the most attention to, so you might try talking to some of the climbers in your area to find out which ropes they're using and why.
Something else to consider is the whether or not you may at some point want to use this same rope for top-roping or trad. If so, you need to consider the above factors and understand how the relevance of each will increase or diminish between climbing styles, or accept the fact that you may end up wanting a different rope down the road.
Read up on the Internet about how ropes are constructed, their different features (and what they mean), etc. and call a couple of the rope manufacturers once you've narrowed your choices down a bit. The ones I've spoken with in the past have been very helpful and willing to impart information about their products over the phone.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jan 15, 2006, 6:00 AM
Post #5 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
10.5
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jan 15, 2006, 6:02 AM
Post #6 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: Find the cheapest 10.5 you can. You'll want it burly for a lot of use.
Yep, 10.5mm--only because you can probably no longer find an 11mm rope. :wink:
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
ahwoo
Jan 15, 2006, 6:22 AM
Post #7 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 112
|
i myself bought a 9.8, but i've been leading on other people's ropes for a while. i'd definitely listen to these guys and go with a 10.5. check out rei. they've got a maxim 60m non-dry on sale for around 100ish right now. http://www.rei.com/..._category_rn=4500686
|
|
|
|
|
matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 6:24 AM
Post #8 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
|
im in the same boat as you
what about the
edelweiss axis 10.3 dry rope?? its UIAA fall rating is 10
will it last a long time?
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jan 15, 2006, 6:57 AM
Post #9 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
get the thickest cheapest rope you can find, you've probably already noticed that sometimes the 10.2 seems thicker than one labeled 10.5...also 70 meter ropes are nice because as the ends get worn out you can cut off 10 feet off both ends and still have a 60+ meter rope...pay extra attention to how the thing rubs over sharp edges on the rock, check it regularly for nicks in the sheath when you're feeding it through the belay device, don't use it for anything but climbing, keep all industrial fluids like petroleum and battery acid away from it and never loan it out or let boneheads tie into it...finally it won't keep you from hitting the ground, the protection and your trusty belayer do that.
|
|
|
|
|
thetroutscout
Jan 15, 2006, 7:06 AM
Post #10 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2004
Posts: 388
|
Matt17 - That is a great rope. It will take a beating and is a great beginning rope.
^^ike
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jan 15, 2006, 8:58 AM
Post #11 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
id get something in the 10.2-10.5mm range. whatever is the cheapest. and make it at least 60m.
|
|
|
|
|
redlegrangerone
Jan 15, 2006, 2:50 PM
Post #12 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2005
Posts: 851
|
Damn, I must be in trouble. I have just started leading and traded in my 10.5 Bluewater for a 9.6 Mammut. But I really like the new rope. :D
|
|
|
|
|
rick_marsh
Jan 15, 2006, 3:06 PM
Post #13 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2005
Posts: 36
|
I'd get one with a fall rating of 10 or higher.
|
|
|
|
|
kydd76
Jan 15, 2006, 3:21 PM
Post #14 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 228
|
Get the cheapest rope you can, 10.2 are thicker for get all the extra jazz (dry treatment are extra cut protection), all you need is ten plus fall rating. http://www.sierratradingpost.com one of the best places to start looking are www.justropes.com they are a small company really cool guys. I like longer ropes since it is nice to have too much rope than to short of a rope.
|
|
|
|
|
robman
Jan 15, 2006, 3:48 PM
Post #15 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 58
|
10.5 is best
good balance in performance and durability :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
dutyje
Jan 15, 2006, 5:33 PM
Post #16 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 727
|
If I were getting my first rope for this coming season, I'd get the REI $100 deal on the Maxim G60. I'm looking at getting my second rope now, and will probably pick that up. Follow what others have said. You just need a cheap, durable all-around rope that will handle a good mix of lead and top-rope.
|
|
|
|
|
tweek
Jan 15, 2006, 8:20 PM
Post #17 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2003
Posts: 171
|
In reply to: Read up on the Internet about how ropes are constructed, their different features (and what they mean), etc. and call a couple of the rope manufacturers once you've narrowed your choices down a bit. The ones I've spoken with in the past have been very helpful and willing to impart information about their products over the phone.
No offense, but for a first lead rope this is not really necessary. If you are at a good climbing shop or dealing with a good climbing Internet dealer (i.e. gearexpress is the one I deal with but there are others out there (mgear for example)) you will get all of this advice.
On the other hand, this is an easy choice. 10.2-10.5 (if you are <150 lbs the former may be better and if you plan on falling a lot then the later is better.) Shy away from 11s just because they are a pain to feed on certain belay devices and you don't get much more (utilized) durability unless you are wall climbing or setting up really bad TRs (but that is my opinion.)
Do not go less than 10mm, regardless of price.
Stick to one of the name brands. Edelweiss, bluewater, sterling, etc. And don't spend too much money. I'd drop the extra cash on a bi-color though.
What I look for in a rope is a low impact force (in the 8-9 range) and relatively high fall number (>8, >10 is better), and bi-color.
|
|
|
|
|
jred
Jan 15, 2006, 8:23 PM
Post #18 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2003
Posts: 750
|
Since it is your first rope you should not need anything more than 2mm.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jan 15, 2006, 8:44 PM
Post #19 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
In reply to: Since it is your first rope you should not need anything more than 2mm.
someone please poop this.
this is the first time i want to poop something and i dont have the votes. usually its the opposite, i see a good post and dont have the votes.
actualy, after thinking a bit, i think thats a first. i almost always have the poop power when i see poop like that.
|
|
|
|
|
flawrence
Jan 15, 2006, 8:56 PM
Post #20 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2003
Posts: 19
|
If you've got to ask - 10.5 is your rope
|
|
|
|
|
caniwi
Jan 15, 2006, 9:09 PM
Post #21 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2006
Posts: 7
|
Thanks for all your tips everyone! Much appreciated
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Jan 15, 2006, 9:29 PM
Post #22 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
In reply to: In reply to: Since it is your first rope you should not need anything more than 2mm. someone please poop this. this is the first time i want to poop something and i dont have the votes. usually its the opposite, i see a good post and dont have the votes. actualy, after thinking a bit, i think thats a first. i almost always have the poop power when i see poop like that. |
|
|
|
|
daggerx
Jan 15, 2006, 9:59 PM
Post #23 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2001
Posts: 761
|
I vote 10.5 also everyone needs at least one. This size may be alittle heavy but it will last for ever if u take care of it.
|
|
|
|
|
joshy8200
Jan 28, 2006, 6:42 AM
Post #24 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
|
Between 10.0mm and 10.5mm diameter. You listed the grades that you climb and the grade doesn't really determine the diameter rope you climb with...but the length of the routes can.
60m = 200ft (which means limited to raps or top-ropes of 100ft) probably want this if you're mutli-pitching
50m = 165ft the 'standard' length
Sterling
Bluewater
Edelweiss
PMI
Mammut
Beal
That's a few namebrands to get you started looking.
|
|
|
|
|
jaybro
Jan 28, 2006, 7:14 AM
Post #25 of 25
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 441
|
11, because they no longer make 12's. and keep track ( in a relative sense) of how many times you fall on Each end.
This rope is going to see you through a lot, if your interest remains you can think about something lighter.
My favorite lead rope was a 9.8; light, easy to clip and all that. I was amazed how fast it wore out. 1/8th (?) the life of a ten.anything. never even considered jumarring on it.
Go far max number of falls, get a 60, you will be trimming it. You will be happier with a biweave, if $ allows.
I climb a lot, just bought a 10.5.
Have a good time, I'm jealous, the fun is just begining!
|
|
|
|
|
|
