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reno
Jan 17, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Here's the open-source, wikipedia-version, all-welcome thread that is the Trip report for RC.com's presence at Ouray 2006.
In keeping with the Wikipedia theme, the reader is reminded that any event depicted in this TR thread may or may not be accurate.
For example... when I tell you that Sharpie passed out on the floor after drinking triple pours of Bacardi 151 and Diet Coke, and was later observed grinding his crotch into the carpet, mumbling "Yeah, take it, baby...." you must decide if it's true.
Likewise, when I tell you that redpointron climbed in the comp wearing a football jersey rather than that wimpy Scholler Stretch fabric stuff, you -- the reader -- must decide if you believe me.
Or, if I tell you that there were handcuffs, police, and warrants involved, the first question you should ask is "Are you shitting me, Reno?"
Further, I could tell you that we had folks diving headfirst into the hot springs... or that a discussion about bald tires turned into some SERIOUS innuendo... or that two men were observed with helmets covering their anatomy -- without being held in place by hands.... or any number of things.
But you and you alone must decide if there is any truth to these statements.
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maldaly
Jan 17, 2006, 11:19 PM
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Ooooh, this one's going to be good!
Mal
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mother_sheep
Jan 17, 2006, 11:24 PM
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In reply to: Here's the open-source, wikipedia-version, all-welcome thread that is the Trip report for RC.com's presence at Ouray 2006. In keeping with the Wikipedia theme, the reader is reminded that any event depicted in this TR thread may or may not be accurate. For example... when I tell you that Sharpie passed out on the floor after drinking triple pours of Bacardi 151 and Diet Coke, and was later observed grinding his crotch into the carpet, mumbling "Yeah, take it, baby...." you must decide if it's true. Likewise, when I tell you that redpointron climbed in the comp wearing a football jersey rather than that wimpy Scholler Stretch fabric stuff, you -- the reader -- must decide if you believe me. Or, if I tell you that there were handcuffs, police, and warrants involved, the first question you should ask is "Are you s--- me, Reno?" Further, I could tell you that we had folks diving headfirst into the hot springs... or that a discussion about bald tires turned into some SERIOUS innuendo... or that two men were observed with helmets covering their anatomy -- without being held in place by hands.... or any number of things. But you and you alone must decide if there is any truth to these statements.
And this was all that happened the night I showed up. Or most of it was.
Here is a quote:
"I went to Ouray Ice Fest 2006 and all I got was a rap sheet."
Damn it Jim!
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mr8615
Jan 17, 2006, 11:30 PM
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Episode 1: The airport and the hottie (you must decide for yourself who the hottie is...)
It all started when kasharp and I walked into Montrose (Micro) Airport... there he was, all 7'4" of him, I'd say he was tall, dark and handsome, but as he said, you have to decide for yourself what to believe. Where was I? Oh yes, tall, dark, handsome, yes... I knew him even before I read the sign he held "kasharp." Damn, I thought, he's not here for me, he just wants what everyone wants, a shot at my woman...
Stay tuned, more to come...
[musical] dun, dun, dun!!!! [/musical]
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redpointron
Jan 17, 2006, 11:56 PM
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In reply to: Likewise, when I tell you that redpointron climbed in the comp wearing a football jersey rather than that wimpy Scholler Stretch fabric stuff, you -- the reader -- must decide if you believe me.
if you'd been at the live auction, you would know that i tried to buy malcom's shirt. 8 shirts mal...talk about generating some serious demand... :shock:
i will add more later
r.r.
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mr8615
Jan 18, 2006, 12:08 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Likewise, when I tell you that redpointron climbed in the comp wearing a football jersey rather than that wimpy Scholler Stretch fabric stuff, you -- the reader -- must decide if you believe me. if you'd been at the live auction, you would know that i tried to buy malcom's shirt. 8 shirts mal...talk about generating some serious demand... :shock: i will add more later r.r.
I still want one! Talk about a fashion genious, I'm honestly impressed, maldaly!
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maldaly
Jan 18, 2006, 12:09 AM
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So how many of those shirts (See my profile if you dont know what THE SHIRT is) should I make? Sh*t, if they really take off I could quit my job and move to Ouray permanently. Whoooohoooo!
Just to keep things in perspective, the "got stump" shirt raised $3,100 the next night.
Mal
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mr8615
Jan 18, 2006, 12:17 AM
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Episode II: The long road to Ouray, CO.
I suppose I should step back and give a little taste of the drama and dedication that it took to make this trip happen.
I first learned of this mystical "Ouray" Ice Festival upon stumbling onto a thread here on rc.com titled 2006 Ouray Ice Festival. After a bit of curious reading and one very flamable post The Great Sharpie of Coloradoland hooked me effortly with the following post:
In reply to: There is not a better place to learn than the Ouray Ice Park, and during the Fest is a great time to do it. The people on this thread all climb at different levels from complete noob to....well...some of us act like we know what we are doing. If you want to learn to climb ice, and have a great time with people who you've never met that will treat you like thier best friend, come with us to Ouray.
Immediately following that post, Redpointron the All-Knowing and Strong of Hoosier(daddy)ville predicted the future:
In reply to: that being said, save your money and make the trip. it will be the time of your life. 8^)
And it was! (more to come on this trip being the time of my life...)
To add icing on the cake and keep my mouth watering Reno the Tall, Dark, and Handsome of Hotsoutherndesertown added:
In reply to: You can always climb with me and look like an expert, as watching me climb most closely resembles trying to wrestle with a greased pig while wearing rollerblades.
The image of a giant wrestling a greased pig while wearing rollerblades still gives me goosebumps.
From that moment on, I was committed to going to this 'Ouray' place and seeing for myself the magic that could turn strangers into best friends.
Between August and January many things tried to stand in my way... my car broke down (and needed a new engine), I needed surgery on my sinuses, I ran out of money (several times), and transportation confusion almost overwhelmed me, not to mention the several times that I had people commit and bail on both the trip and the hotel room... but through it all these strangers continued to encourage (read:lure me in :lol: ) and offer assistance in any way possible. This trip wouldn't have been possible without support from viewers like you!
Coming soon... The Others :shock:
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mr8615
Jan 18, 2006, 12:20 AM
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Count me in for two shirts, mal, a large and a medium.
Mark
Edit: make that three: add a small as well (for kasharp)
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reno
Jan 18, 2006, 12:27 AM
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In reply to: So how many of those shirts (See my profile if you dont know what THE SHIRT is) should I make? Sh*t, if they really take off I could quit my job and move to Ouray permanently.
I'd buy a half-dozen, just to give them as gifts. Lemme know, however...
In reply to: Just to keep things in perspective, the "got stump" shirt raised $3,100 the next night.
I will NOT pay 3,100 for a shirt. Hell, I CAN'T afford 3100 clams for a shirt.
Finally, this:
In reply to: To add icing on the cake and keep my mouth watering Reno the Tall, Dark, and Handsome of Hotsoutherndesertown...
If Mark keeps calling me Tall, Dark, and Handsome, I'm going to be scared. :shock:
Anyway.... Here's a little tidbit about the trip for you to decide "True" or "Fiction":
On the Sunday before the festival, Redpointron, Sharpie, and Reno spent the night in Ouray, woke to a gourmet asparagus/potato quiche, fresh coffee, and porn movies.
True? Or Crap? You judge.
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talons05
Jan 18, 2006, 2:09 AM
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In reply to: Finally, this: In reply to: To add icing on the cake and keep my mouth watering Reno the Tall, Dark, and Handsome of Hotsoutherndesertown... If Mark keeps calling me Tall, Dark, and Handsome, I'm going to be scared. :shock:
Oh yeah? I have a picture that suggests otherwise!
Cheers,
A.W.
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theledge
Jan 18, 2006, 3:12 AM
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I definitely want one of those shirts..... I think everyone there wanted one of those shirts.
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nmt252
Jan 18, 2006, 3:24 AM
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driving in snow to Ouray. Ice in the gorge, ice tools in hand, adrenaline pumping, first climb down, hot tub, beers, dinner, beers, passed out, woke up, clinic, climbing, climbing, lunch, beers, beers, comps, beers, hot tub, dinner, passed out, drove over red mountain pass, Stairway to Heaven, perfection, led two short WI3 pitches, perfect weather, drive back to Ouray, comps, beers, beers, beers, dinner, live auction, beers, passed out, woke up, climbed, packed, drove back to Denver, snow, snow, snow..... can't ask for much more than that.
Unfortunately I did forget my phone numbers in Denver and was not able to contact anyone from rc.com. Would like to climb again, if you are in the Denver area send me a PM and we'll get out some time soon.
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maldaly
Jan 18, 2006, 6:11 AM
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All-right, here's my TR from Ouray. Lot's of wine in me so this oughtta be good...
Thursday-9:00am
David Light, my rep showed up to start the drive. A brief discussion on whether it's better to drive via I-70 or to take 285 to Salida then Hwy 50 over Monarch Pass through Gunnison, to Montrose then south to Ouray. We decide to take the interstate. Bad choice, it was snowing from the tunnel to Wolcott and CDOT has begun to spray some sort of chemical crap on the road instead of salt. It turned into a nasty goo on the windshield that was impossible to remove with the wipers and fluid. At times we were virtually blind but forged on anyway. At one point, near Edwards, I was passing a cement truck on a corner and it sprayed an unbelievable amount of crap up and I found myself driving blind, on a corner and going 80 mph. I managed to stick the move and, shaking, looked over at DL and said, "That was scary." Yep...It cleared up right after that and it was clear driving from there but bought new blades at the next truck stop. In Junction I got on the cell and called Dave at CCH to talk to him about that busted Alien. He told me he’d decided to do a recall and I offered to help in any way I could. Recalls suck—I’ve had to do three in the last 20 years—but, if they’re done promptly and properly, they spread a lot of love and you get karma credits. Got to Ouray by 3:30 or so and checked into the Vic. Ran into my man, Marko, talking to Joe (madrock) and Brian (Pagan) in the parking lot and had time to run up to the lower bridge to set up our E-Z Up before we had to head to the community center for a sponsor's meeting.
Thursday-6:00pm
Met with the Ouray crew, headed by Erin Eddy, to get the weekend sussed out. Snacks and pop, but no beer, so as soon as it was over, we headed to the Buen for real food and El Jefe's (The only $8 margarita in the world that is actually worth $8.). Early to bed cause we had to be up at 6am to get the demos ready.
Friday-6:00am
Alarm goes off and I pull on my leg and stagger to the bathroom. Still dark...damn. I HATE that. I love staying at the Vic but the breakfast is weak. Toast for me, with yellow jam and "Promise" spread, whatever that is. Don't know what the promise is but it couldn't be too much. Barely lubes the whole wheat enough to choke it down. Watched Marko hog down a few eggs on his toast and wish I could eat eggs but my heart stopped once and I don't need it to stop again.
Friday-7:30am
Drove up to the lower bridge with our demo gear and all the warm clothes we own. It's not too cold but we need all the help we can get when we're just sitting on our asses. Some of the vendors have propane heaters but I've always felt that was cheating. I dropped David and Marko off at the road to schlep the duffel's in while I parked the car in the curve. Walked by Bobby’s Burrito stand on the way in and caught a whiff that pulled me right in. Choices? Veggie, with eggs and cheese or the Full Monty--sausage, eggs and cheese. Fuck it--I went for the Full Monty. Five bucks for the burrito plus a buck-and-a-half for coffee and it was the best breakfast I've ever had. Damn the arteries, full speed ahead.
Friday-8:30am
There's a line of people waiting for demo gear while we fumble with frozen fingers to adjust crampons. I've always felt that those quick adjust crampons were kind of stupid. I mean, how many times have you adjusted your crampons after the first time? Never? Once? Whatever, I would have paid big bucks for some springy things to adjust those crampons.
Friday-9:00am
ALL of our demo gear is out and I can finally unfold the lounge chairs and kick back with a cup of coffee. It's nice to just hang and shoot the shit with the other manufacturers. We sit around and tell each other lies about how good our gear is and how much our sales have increased since last year and how our sponsored athletes are better than their sponsored athletes and how badass we used to be.... Same shit, different day.
Friday-12:00pm
I have a clinic going out at 12:30 and the participants start to show up. I was assigned an "intermediate ice" clinic and had no idea whatsoever what intermediate ice is. I've been climbing ice for over 30 years and the pitches I've climbed have either seemed pretty easy or really fucking hard. Oh well, I guess I'd just see what these climbers wanted to learn and then make it up as I go. The crew I ended up with was pretty good. Six climbers each with a year or so of experience. One guy wanted to learn some tricks for placing screws but I told him we probably wouldn't have time for that. There were "intro to leading" classes available for that but I did talk a bit about what kind of screw I like and when to use which kind. Since I started using the Grivel 360's I've been a convert. I love the folding handle and the ease of starting. In addition, those rounded thread crowns are waaaay durable. We spent most of the session learning about movement on the ice. I've been a big convert to leashless tools 'cause it allows me to move on the ice like I do on rock and I find it way easier. I'm a fat, middle-aged, over-weight, post-cardiac, multiple amputee and I'm climbing harder ice than I've ever climbed and I think it's because of the leashless thing.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ist_start=7&id=67296
I can drop any hand at any time and use it to push, pull, press or mantle my way up. I rarely end up just yarding on my tools any more. My hands stay warmer, I don't get pumped and I've yet to drop a tool. When I watch the good climbers, the only move i see them do is the "hang it on the shoulder and match on a single tool" trick, or the "hang it on the shoulder to switch hands" trick and I find I rarely do this. Whatever. They're way better than I am so I'm in no position to criticize. It was fun to put a pair of leashless Hooks into the hands of someone who didn't think they were "good enough" to go leashless and see the WOW factor when they realized the freedom it gave them. Then we spent some time on down-climbing. This is a trick I learned from Jeff Lowe and it's got my ass out of more than one jam and gave me to confidence to lead some stuff I wouldn't have otherwise. It's a full-on trick and makes you move in ways that you never move; but it works well. Jeff described it well in his book, "Ice World" and that section alone is worth the price of the book. Read it, visualize it and then down climb the next pitch you top rope.
Friday-3:30pm
We had to be over at the community center at 4:30 to set up the vendor booths so we busted outta there as soon as we got all the demos back. Not even time for a shower but I figured everyone was in the same boat so a quick swipe of Old Spice was all I got. The trade fair wasn't much much: just a table with our banner taped down and a pile of gear tossed out. I love to sit in an informal setting like this and talk gear with climbers. Somehow, it feels way more connected and real than blasting out slick catalog copy or polished press releases. The best is when I actually find someone who hates something I designed and honestly wants to talk about it. That's good stuff. The best part that night was our shirts, though. Anybody who knows me knows that I'm pretty disgusted with what's going on with our government and in the world, so I'd printed up 8 special t-shirts for our crew to wear that express my feelings really clearly.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...st_start=13&id=67525
You’ve got to start somewhere, eh? New Belgium was pouring the brews (Thanks Casey and John. You always come through.) and OIPI had ordered 400 pizzas. Holy crap, 400 pizzas!!!! They filled the kitchen and needed a whole dumpster just for the empty boxes. I got to meet Kevin (nvrsmr14) and Kevin (insainio), the guys who survived the busted the Orange Alien the prior week. Great guys and I’m psyched Kevin didn’t get hurt. I’m also psyched that Dave at CCH decided to do a recall. Went back to the Vic, checked the email (I love that wireless. I think I poached it from the Box.) and passed out by 9:30. Whoooeee! I’m such a party pig.
Saturday-Midnight
Couldn’t sleep. Those of you who know me know that my real foot is my bad foot and it was throbbing. I’d stepped on it wrong while in the gorge and I guess I had tweaked it and didn’t have enough beer in me to mask the pain all night. Fuck. No Advil in the kit and no flask of scotch so I sat up and read my book (An Unreasonable Woman-great book, BTW) until I passed out again.
Saturday-7:00am
Boots clomping down the balcony woke me up in time for another bout with crappy toast and bad coffee. Who was I kidding? I succumbed, once again to one of Bobby’s (great/bad) Burritos and a cup of coffee ($2.00 today. WTF?) as I hobbled by the food tents. My ankle was so FU’d I had to have David cover my clinic for me and, after adjusting 15 pairs of crampons and handing out 24 sets of tools, I took my frozen and split-finger-tips up to the announcing stand to call the comp. A week before this year’s fest, Erin called to ask if I could fill in because O’Donnell bailed at the last minute and, reluctantly, I agreed. I love doing this: there’s nothing like 10,000 watts booming your voice out to the crowd and hearing the response and I’ve always thought I did a decent job of it. I quit doing it, however, because I go to the ice fest, not to call another event, but to meet climbers, spy on and diss the competition and scarf the free beer from New Belgium; and I can’t do much of that if I’m sitting up in the cage calling the comp. The view is perfect, though. I could see the competitors from the moment they got on the ice to the second they fell or topped out. Awesome is the word. Every time I think that I’m getting good all it takes to slap me back down is to watch Will Gadd or Inez Papert (or whoever) climb this stuff. It’s inhuman, especially since all of the other climbers are so good too. I’ve done a lot of mixed climbing but it was back in the day when we’d launch out onto some thin—usually less than vertical—smear,
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d=None&list_start=16
carrying a few screws, a handful of nuts and some pins on a backcountry face somewhere. Most of the time it was lots of fun, occasionally it scared the hell out of us and it was always an adventure. But it was never a steep, pumpy techno-fest like what gets climbed in these comps. I like they way the organizers have arranged the start order from least likely to win to most likely. While there is something organic about a random start order, it makes for better viewing when it’s the last climber(s) are the only ones to make it all the way. I was bummed that Inez was off her game, recovering from a broken foot, but was really psyched to see Anna Tourretta, from Courmeyer, Italy, climb so well. She didn’t get as far as Inez, Kirsten and Tanja, but she, by far, was the most graceful and fluid climber out there. Once again, Will Gadd blew my mind. He was SO strong, and moved SO well and was obviously having SO much fun, chatting it up and sharing jokes with his belayers where everyone else had struggled, I couldn’t help but root for him once again. When he pulled over the top he was so fresh it looked like he could have shaken out, lowered off and busted out another lap or two. Or maybe downclimb it…
Saturday-4:00pm
Comp’s over and we’re sitting in the demo area, freezing our asses off waiting for some inconsiderate bastard to bring back tools an hour late. Never did show up so we left a death note on our table telling him that since we had his credit card we’d start spending it if we didn’t have the tools back that night. Sure enough, we got them back at the community center that night.
Saturday-5:00pm
Headed over to Jason Nelson and Lisa’s for cocktails and apps. It was Jason’s b-day and we had lots of good wine and great food. Lisa’s the queen of cooking: she’s the chef at all of the Splitter camps and casually tosses out Thai curries and marinated flank steak when we’re hanging at the Creek, so imagine what she does on her stove at home. Exquisite. I was humbled by the guest list, Will and Kim, Shelly and Shawn Huisman, Jeff Lowe, Annie Whitehouse, Sean Issacs, Rich Marshall, etc. It was good to hang at a house where we didn’t have to yell over a crowd and our feet didn’t stick to the floor.
Saturday-8:00
Auction time. I had been the auctioneer for years but they let me off the hook this year. Jim Nowak was the man so I just covered his back this time. Halfway through the auction the crowd started to heckle me, wanting to buy the Unfuck the World shirt off my back. What the hell? I started calling it and it ended up going for $105. That’s good enough for more than one complete ice route (Annual budget of $150,000 makes 178 routes in the park).
Whew! It’s past my bed time. Saturday party report and speed comp tomorrow.
Mal
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timd
Jan 18, 2006, 7:13 AM
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It was a great fest this year. We had a blast climbing with all of you maniacs. We left with a lot of fond memories. Oh, yea and a new rope!
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grk10vq
Jan 18, 2006, 8:00 AM
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tr: 2006 ouray ice festival.
once upon a mid-day dreary,
while I pondered, weak and weary,
over many a quaint volumes of rotten ice--
I ran into all 55 pages of rc.com members by chance, how nice.
for a second i sat and pondered this lame,
for we all addressed each other via screen name.
and although a drunken rant and rave we had not,
a quick run up the pinky, so graciously i got.
and to you guys i again thank for the throws,
till next year 07, [the official time will be kept by twinkletoes.].
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kydd76
Jan 18, 2006, 1:24 PM
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In reply to: Oh, yea and a new rope! |
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talons05
Jan 18, 2006, 2:42 PM
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Final Schwag Report, 18 January 2005:
Location: Ouray, CO
Pint Glasses: 8
Hats: 2
Stickers: 1,000,000
Bottle Openers: 2
Magazines: 2
T-Shirts: 1
Bruised Knuckles: 10
New Friends: 19
Cheers,
A.W.
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kydd76
Jan 18, 2006, 3:11 PM
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A few thoughts of climbing, I was climbing right? More thoughts of beer, I was climbing right? Something about a hot tub, and free junk, I was climbing right?
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nmt252
Jan 18, 2006, 7:10 PM
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whats the trick to adding photos? I've got some prettygnarly photos of Stairway to Heaven I'd like to share..........
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nmt252
Jan 18, 2006, 7:24 PM
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sorry but my computer know-how in this department is horrible. I have the images on my c:/ ..........direct me from there.
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jasona
Jan 18, 2006, 10:10 PM
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In reply to: sorry but my computer know-how in this department is horrible. I have the images on my c:/ ..........direct me from there.
email them to me (jason at aphoto.net) and I will post them for you.
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redpointron
Jan 18, 2006, 10:32 PM
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In reply to: Likewise, when I tell you that redpointron climbed in the comp wearing a football jersey rather than that wimpy Scholler Stretch fabric stuff, you -- the reader -- must decide if you believe me.
i did forget to mention that martha and tracy got to see my original comp outfit...too bad no pictures of that one... :oops:
(fyi. reno's telling the truth about the football jersey. check out my new profile pic)
regards
r.r.
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