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rcpeters
Jan 6, 2006, 5:26 PM
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In reply to: Did you notice a problem with the rope sticking between the biner and the device after your partner takes a fall? Just curious. Angry and I hed a hell of a time with his.
I've noticed that it sticks quite easily on fat gym ropes, however the device is quite easy lift up with the big lip on one side. For the given market, new climbers buying, harness, shoes and belay device all at once the stickiness seems would give new belayers positive vibes. I loaned the device to a girl that just bought some mad rock shoes and she loved the fact it matched her shoes. I really like the "-" and "+" marking, lets the user know the device can be used both ways depending on friction needs. I would also like to see a little manual showing all the relevant belaying techniques, like lifting the device to unlock. I have yet to rappel with the device, which will affect my opinion greatly.
But so far I think right on for the given market.
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mother_sheep
Jan 6, 2006, 5:32 PM
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If the given market is top roping gym climbers, I agree with you. I also agree that it’s probably pretty good for ice/alpine and traddies climbing on twins since there is that increased friction and it’s light! With fatter ropes, it’s horrible when feeding out slack to a partner making a somewhat desperate clip and horrible trying to release the rope after your partner takes a fall. I experienced this in high friction mode and low friction mode.
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rcpeters
Jan 6, 2006, 5:53 PM
Post #103 of 130
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In reply to: If the given market is top roping gym climbers, I agree with you. I also agree that it’s probably pretty good for ice/alpine and traddies climbing on twins since there is that increased friction and it’s light! With fatter ropes, it’s horrible when feeding out slack to a partner making a somewhat desperate clip and horrible trying to release the rope after your partner takes a fall. I experienced this in high friction mode and low friction mode.
I'm assuming anyone buying shoes, harness and belay device all at the same time is a top roper.
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mother_sheep
Jan 6, 2006, 5:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: If the given market is top roping gym climbers, I agree with you. I also agree that it’s probably pretty good for ice/alpine and traddies climbing on twins since there is that increased friction and it’s light! With fatter ropes, it’s horrible when feeding out slack to a partner making a somewhat desperate clip and horrible trying to release the rope after your partner takes a fall. I experienced this in high friction mode and low friction mode. I'm assuming anyone buying shoes, harness and belay device all at the same time is a top roper.
Ahh, gotcha.
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landgolier
Jan 6, 2006, 7:11 PM
Post #105 of 130
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In reply to: In reply to: I have, and I am so far quite impressed. Did you notice a problem with the rope sticking between the biner and the device after your partner takes a fall? Just curious. Angry and I hed a hell of a time with his.
What kind of biner were you using? I had this problem with a BD rocklock, which has kind of a D shape such that when you lock off the "corner" at the end of the spine goes up into the device. Less problems with an OP jake, which has that smooth radius pear shape such that the action tends to happen out in the middle of the curve and the biner can't really get up into the device.
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nevenneve
Jan 7, 2006, 12:28 AM
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Had the same experience with fat gym ropes and wonder if they might be a little thicker than the 11mm max. Sadly it has been too warm here to go climbing outside. Melting snow leads to the worst kind of cabin fever.
Truth be told, the only difference between this device and a few others on the market are subtle differences to get patents etc. I noticed two qualities that seem to be unique to the paradox. The angle inside of the device on the - side appears to create very positive braking at lock off (as stated above.) The second is the lack of depth of the teeth and rope channel in comparison to say the atc-xp. So far I like it for general gym stupidity.
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tattooed_climber
Jan 7, 2006, 12:40 AM
Post #107 of 130
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i bet mine is stuck in customs....damn them and their random selection process for duties and detainment for random period of time
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fowler214
Jan 21, 2006, 12:53 AM
Post #108 of 130
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Did the product arrive in a timely manner?
Yes, 1 day by DHL
Were the instructions clear and easy to read? (and in 10 languages? )
Sorry to say no paper instruction came with it, how ever there is a (- friction +) depiction on one side of the device indicating that either side can be used based on needs.
Does the device perform as promised?
Yes, I experienced no issues
Did the device perform as expected?
Yes
How was the device used?
TR and GYM
What size rope were you using?
BlueWater Lightning Pro 9.7mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope
Did it feed easily when belaying a leader?
Yes no different from an ATC or ATC XP
Was it easy to control descent speed on rap?
Yes
Did you catch any falls with the device?
Several (intentional falls)
What would you expect to pay retail for such a device?
I would expect to pay around 20 for it
If you had to send the device back to mad rock now that you are finished evaluating it, would you go out and purchase your own?
You better believe it.
Ok outside of previous member questions
1. Ascetics – got to love the look of this one
2. Size – Noticeably smaller than ATC/ ATC XP
3. Weight – It is light and no one can complain about that
4. Use - Several people used this out at Mineral Wells and every one loved it (I will be taking this out to Red Rocks and Squamish in the next couple of weeks I will repost with updates.)
5. I could go on and on about this but I am lazy, if any one has direct concerns or questions PM me and I will get back to you.
And not to call anyone out but it needs to be said. Although I do not know Joe (madrock) personally I have spoken with him over the phone. I found him in no way to be a “jerk” a$$ or any number of things he has been accused of being. He is a guy trying to do his job.
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jred
Jan 21, 2006, 1:16 AM
Post #109 of 130
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In reply to: i bet mine is stuck in customs....damn them and their random selection process for duties and detainment for random period of time |
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moose_droppings
Jan 21, 2006, 2:24 AM
Post #110 of 130
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Received mine back in mid December and have used it about 15 days climbing. Its a simple, easy and well enough built device that I would recommend it to anyone. Nothing jumps out at me as exceptionally good or bad. My 11mm rope bends into it a little easier and I do think its got a little more bite on my 9.8mm. I think the + grooved side could come out of the opening with a little radius to it and point downward toward the end for more of bite with the skinnier ropes, grooves could be a little more pronounced too. Its biggest bite is gonna be on BD with the low price. Never experienced any sticking after a catch or quick lock-off on rappel. The next few times I go out, I'm gonna visit some of the spurting areas and let a some others try it out and give me some more feedback.
All in all, good job MR
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miavzero
Jan 21, 2006, 3:47 AM
Post #111 of 130
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never got mine. :cry:
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alvchen
Jan 21, 2006, 10:32 AM
Post #112 of 130
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I'm going to post a quick review, because it's late and I'm tired.
I had some problems with it sticking when trying to lower. The middle fin is extremely short and when the biner rises into it places an extremely sharp bend in the room and I had to physically lift the tube part of the belay device off the biner to continue lowering.
More tomorrow when I try it out more at Pinnacles.
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brad84
Jan 21, 2006, 12:26 PM
Post #113 of 130
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never got mine either
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lordjim
Jan 21, 2006, 3:00 PM
Post #114 of 130
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Apparently it's for sale now at pagangear.com
http://www.pagangear.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=651
If I didn't already have a ATC-XP, a Reverso, and a Gri I'd pick one up for $13.
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pendereki
Jan 21, 2006, 3:55 PM
Post #115 of 130
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Still waiting for mine, also.
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tattooed_climber
Jan 21, 2006, 3:59 PM
Post #116 of 130
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In reply to: In reply to: i bet mine is stuck in customs....damn them and their random selection process for duties and detainment for random period of time I bet it was not even sent.
i still don't have it :roll:
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pendereki
Jan 23, 2006, 7:05 PM
Post #117 of 130
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My Paradox is here! Yeah!
Looks good, a pretty shade of blue.
A more complete review after I have used it.
Chad
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tgreene
Jan 23, 2006, 7:49 PM
Post #118 of 130
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I received mine a couple of weeks ago, but have been unable to use it due to my accident on December 26th...
I do however love the design concept, and am hoping to be able to use it this coming weekend, since I'm finally off crutches and ablew to move about.
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fowler214
Jan 25, 2006, 2:47 PM
Post #119 of 130
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O yes, mine was a nice shade of red, should go well with the 06 Mugens.
Matching gear = sending... yes? :roll:
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tattooed_climber
Jan 31, 2006, 12:54 AM
Post #120 of 130
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finally got mine today.....silver....
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cutty
Jan 31, 2006, 1:47 AM
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In reply to: finally got mine today.....silver....
I'm still waiting for mine, but you've given me hope...
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miavzero
Jan 31, 2006, 2:53 AM
Post #122 of 130
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[quote="fowler214"]O yes, mine was a nice shade of red, should go well with the 06 Mugens.
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tgreene
Feb 2, 2006, 10:12 PM
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I somehow ended up receiving 2 of them (blue & silver), so I gave the silver one to my regular partner (SteelHands).
I first tried the Paradox this past Saturday while gym climbing w/ an 11mm gym rope, and immediately came to the conclusion that it binds too much on an 11mm rope. When lowering a climber, the drag was so bad that I barely had to hold with a brake hand, because of the friction in the device.
Fast forward to yesterday, when a couple of us were outside climbing on a 9.5mm rope, and it was freakin awesome! The person I climbed with, forgot to grab his rap/belay device from his rigging harness, and asked me if I had a spare, so I offered up the Paradox. This climber generally uses an ATC, but instantly fell in love with this unit for a couple reasons.[1] The low profile doesn't cause any of the rope twist that is often seen with ATC's .
[2] When rapping, he pulled the tail straight down through the grooved notches that were facing his body, and was EASILY able to maintain a smooth, comfortable one-handed rap. It was the most ackward rap technique I've ever seen, yet he stated it allowed for some of the most comfortable and controlled raps ever.
Mark is a very seasoned climber that has done the majority of developing in the Batesville area, so any of you that have climbed there, will know who I'm referring to.
-Tim
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fowler214
Feb 3, 2006, 4:25 PM
Post #124 of 130
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In reply to: In reply to: O yes, mine was a nice shade of red, should go well with the 06 Mugens. Matching gear = sending... yes? :roll: The 2006 mugens are out?! If so, where did you buy them?
As far as I know they are not out yet, i hear Q2
sorry for the confusion
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tradklime
Feb 3, 2006, 4:37 PM
Post #125 of 130
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In reply to: In reply to: I have, and I am so far quite impressed. Did you notice a problem with the rope sticking between the biner and the device after your partner takes a fall? Just curious. Angry and I hed a hell of a time with his.
To follow-up, after having used the device with a 10 mil rope, I agree that the device is too grabby for thicker ropes. It works perfectly with my skinny twins, but on thicker ropes is a PITA.
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