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whoa
Jan 28, 2006, 3:22 AM
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For gym routes and problems, is the "rule" that you need to match hands on the start hold, or can you have one hand not touching anything?
(Obviously, there are problems where it's easier to start with one hand not on a hold...)
Thanks!
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pylonhead
Jan 28, 2006, 3:29 AM
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For proper form, I grip the start hold with one hand, and wrap the other securily around my ...
but wait.. this is a family site.
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socalbolter
Jan 28, 2006, 3:35 AM
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Ask the gym's setter.
Diferent climbs and gyms have different "rules."
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climbingaggie03
Jan 28, 2006, 3:41 AM
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what are you doing with the hand that's not on a hold?
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rockguide
Jan 28, 2006, 3:49 AM
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In reply to: what are you doing with the hand that's not on a hold?
:nono:
don't make me post THAT emoticon
B
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whoa
Jan 28, 2006, 3:51 AM
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Some of the problems that are easier this way (and the one that led me to post this question) are ones where you are pushing down on the handhold with your hands, with your foot or feet way to the side. You're "stemming" but between a handhold and a foothold. Using two hands doesn't help, and keeping one hand free can make it (much) easier to get to the next hold.
But this is also easier on some slabby balance problems where twisting your body is a big cost balance-wise.
Caveat: I'm a total noob who has no clue.
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climbsomething
Jan 28, 2006, 3:59 AM
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If you don't have gym ethics, then what do you have at all? ;)
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rockguide
Jan 28, 2006, 4:02 AM
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In reply to: Caveat: I'm a total noob who has no clue.
Why does this sound like some climbing 12 step?
(Chorus: hi whoa ...)
:lol:
Ask them. Each routes setter has their own style. A good one (and there are extremely good ones) has coreographed the route and has a plan for how it starts.
Typically if there are first hand holds marked specially then they intended to use them. Around here there is a V of tape under the starting holds or else the routesetter intended you to walk up and use whatever holds you could reach (like outdoors).
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whoa
Jan 28, 2006, 4:13 AM
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Ha! Yes, the first hold is marked clearly, but I don't know if it has to be matched. I'll ask at the gym. I guess there's no global convention about that.
Thanks!
My name is whoa, and I am a noob . . .
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rockguide
Jan 28, 2006, 5:07 AM
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In reply to: My name is whoa, and I am a noob . . .
:lol: do I hear signature?
(BTW if a gal named elaine, formerly an OB and NOLS instructor, still works at the San Fran Gym, say hi from Brian)
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joshy8200
Jan 28, 2006, 5:52 AM
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If you're a 'total noob' don't worry too much about the technicalities. Some routes have matched hands starts, usually a route's start is double taped. The last hold is sometimes double taped as well and you have to controlled match on the finish hold...
But like I said don't get to caught up with these rules at first. Concentrate on finding ways to makes moves that are hard for you...even if it means you have to use an extra hold or stem on part of the wall that isn't marked. That's totally ok...it's gym climbing. If someone is uptight about you 'not climbing' or thinks they're 'so much better' because they did the route a certain way...they're deluding themselves.
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katalyzt
Jan 30, 2006, 8:40 PM
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In reply to: If someone is uptight about you 'not climbing' or thinks they're 'so much better' because they did the route a certain way...they're deluding themselves.
Ah crap...
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shanz
Jan 30, 2006, 8:48 PM
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Never sweat the small stuff- if anyone gives you grief for not matching hands then maybe they need to step outside of the gym once in a while.
Gyms are for training rock is for climbing
Just my two cents
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talons05
Jan 30, 2006, 8:53 PM
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Hey whoa - don't worry about that so much, dude. Just climb it like you would outside... :righton:
I doubt anyone will give you shit for using only one hand. If they do, you should probably just kick their ass and steal their girl... :twisted:
Cheers,
A.W.
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lambone
Jan 30, 2006, 9:22 PM
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FWIW-
As far as I can tell, the American Bouldering Series does not require that both hands are matched on a start hold. If ther are two start holds, you only need to use one of them.
They do require you to match at the finish and hold on for a few seconds.
As far as other gym rules, to each his own.
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ctardi
Feb 3, 2006, 4:35 AM
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We have three ways to start a route. First is the route's start has two upside down T's taped on it, start with both hand matched. Same thing can be had with two seperate holds. Or, a box taped on the wall, starting with both hands inside it.
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organic
Feb 3, 2006, 5:05 AM
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f--- no wonder I could never start that mono problem!
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puppypusher
Feb 17, 2006, 9:55 AM
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are you guys talking about comps or just climbing? if your just at the gym climbing then start however you want! dont think about it too much though..if your falling off bc your not matching then match if your fine without matching climb on...i really dont think the route setter is gonna be dissapointed if he sees some climbers not matching the beginning of his route.
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