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clarts
Jan 31, 2006, 4:29 PM
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Hey all,
I'm heading over to the west coast in july and after some infor on technical routes up Rainier. Preferably some web link that has route descriptions. Also looking at doing Mt Hood too and after similar info
cheers
Tthe Clarts-man
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iceisnice
Jan 31, 2006, 5:11 PM
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there are a couple of good guidebooks for the mountain. start there. there aren't too many "technical" routes on Rainier. The north face has the most technical routes....if you are brave enough (severe avalanche and serac dangers). i did the Gibraltar Ledges in winter one year and even though it wasn't super technical...the exposure was intense.
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mother_sheep
Jan 31, 2006, 10:12 PM
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I'm in the same boat. I'll be heading up in July. I see that some of the routes that I'm interested in doing have the high risk factor in the summer since they are steep snow climbs and should be climbed in cold weather. The DC seems to be the most straight forward given the time of year that I will be going up. I've seen several guidebooks on Rainier but I am also interested in some suggestions on recommended reading before I go. I'm not looking for route beta here. Due to the commercial madness on the DC, I'd like to avoid that route but since I'm going in the summer, I'm not sure what my options are. Any info on recommended reading and guidebooks would be appreciated.
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gyngve
Jan 31, 2006, 10:26 PM
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In reply to: there are a couple of good guidebooks for the mountain. start there. there aren't too many "technical" routes on Rainier. The north face has the most technical routes....if you are brave enough (severe avalanche and serac dangers). i did the Gibraltar Ledges in winter one year and even though it wasn't super technical...the exposure was intense.
Technical is one of those words that have different interpretations.
Most any route on Rainier will require glacier travel, for which it is recommended to travel roped up (even on level ground) and be prepared for crevasse rescue. That falls under my definition of technical. If you're looking to do a gnarly committing route with steep ice and objective hazards, you probably already know where to look for route information.
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mother_sheep
Jan 31, 2006, 10:27 PM
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Is it true that there are fixed lines on the DC? Please say no.
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climbingaz
Jan 31, 2006, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: Is it true that there are fixed lines on the DC? Please say no.
I doubt it. No reason to have fixed ropes up there in my opinion. And there weren't any when I was there a few years ago.
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gyngve
Jan 31, 2006, 11:19 PM
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No fixed lines that I know of on the DC. Last year there was a short one near the Kautz Ice Cliff for some time. Dunno who put it there. There may be ladders on the DC bridging crevasses.
The Emmons is the 2nd most popular route on Rainier. Mellow glacier, a little longer than the DC. Doesn't have the rockfall issues of the DC. The Kautz is a little harder (in later season expect 150m of glacial ice up to 50 degrees), but is much much less crowded.
Whatever route you do, don't let your limited stay in the NW cloud your judgment. Locals have no problem saying, "the weather sucks; i'll wait another week," whereas folks who are in town for a short time might be
more inclined to push for the top.
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flyfshmn
Feb 1, 2006, 12:00 AM
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My first time up (and 2nd, 3rd and 4th) was up the Liberty Ridge. No crowds, great climping and a true alpine experience.
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/...d=UBB4&Number=473450
This a good link that I found - the Liberty Ridge route is shown towards the bottom of the page. This climb will involve 40-40 degree slopes from the start of the ridge to the 1st summit. From the campground, we hiked to the glacier and camped. Next day was traversing the glacier to the start of the ridge, then up the ridge to Thumb Rock. We set up camp, then kicked steps to within 300' of the summit, back down for dinner and sleep. Next morning - up to the summit, back down to Thumb Rock - packed and out to campground.
The best part was going to get a beer and burger in Enumclaw after the climb late that evening.
Its a great climb...look into it. I hope to do it again this year as a warm up for Denali...
Peace
Fly
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clintoris
Feb 1, 2006, 3:03 AM
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What these guys are saying is more or less correct. FYI, tehre are some fixed ropes on the DC, I haven't seen anyone use them but they were on the ledge-section below the actual cleaver, just above the Ingraham Flats. I'd bet they were put there by RMI. They were short, maybe 400 feet.
As far as techincal routes in July...that's pushing it in my opinion. Lib Ridge is usually out by late June or very early July due to rockfall. I'm sure it's still totally doable, just a little more risky. Haven't climbed it yet, but that's what the standard is. I'll be up there in May. Ptarmigan Ridge might still be good if you hit it in early July, depends upon snowpack and conditions.
Gib Ledges will certainly be out by that time, but I agree that the exposure is pretty awesome. Not too techical, but one slip and you're bouncing 500 feet down to the base of the Nisqually. Got my first summit via that route last March, missed a winter ascent by 3 days...going back in March and might try this route again, hoping to get that Winter ascent.
Good luck, check out Mike Gauthier's guidebook for a shitton of more information...http://www.amazon.com/...964?%5Fencoding=UTF8
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clintoris
Feb 1, 2006, 4:02 AM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2004
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What these guys are saying is more or less correct. FYI, tehre are some fixed ropes on the DC, I haven't seen anyone use them but they were on the ledge-section below the actual cleaver, just above the Ingraham Flats. I'd bet they were put there by RMI. They were short, maybe 400 feet.
As far as techincal routes in July...that's pushing it in my opinion. Lib Ridge is usually out by late June or very early July due to rockfall. I'm sure it's still totally doable, just a little more risky. Haven't climbed it yet, but that's what the standard is. I'll be up there in May. Ptarmigan Ridge might still be good if you hit it in early July, depends upon snowpack and conditions.
Gib Ledges will certainly be out by that time, but I agree that the exposure is pretty awesome. Not too techical, but one slip and you're bouncing 500 feet down to the base of the Nisqually. Got my first summit via that route last March, missed a winter ascent by 3 days...going back in March and might try this route again, hoping to get that Winter ascent.
Good luck, check out Mike Gauthier's guidebook for a shitton of more information...http://www.amazon.com/...964?%5Fencoding=UTF8
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clintoris
Feb 1, 2006, 4:04 AM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2004
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What these guys are saying is more or less correct. FYI, tehre are some fixed ropes on the DC, I haven't seen anyone use them but they were on the ledge-section below the actual cleaver, just above the Ingraham Flats. I'd bet they were put there by RMI. They were short, maybe 400 feet.
As far as techincal routes in July...that's pushing it in my opinion. Lib Ridge is usually out by late June or very early July due to rockfall. I'm sure it's still totally doable, just a little more risky. Haven't climbed it yet, but that's what the standard is. I'll be up there in May. Ptarmigan Ridge might still be good if you hit it in early July, depends upon snowpack and conditions.
Gib Ledges will certainly be out by that time, but I agree that the exposure is pretty awesome. Not too techical, but one slip and you're bouncing 500 feet down to the base of the Nisqually. Got my first summit via that route last March, missed a winter ascent by 3 days...going back in March and might try this route again, hoping to get that Winter ascent.
Good luck, check out Mike Gauthier's guidebook for a shitton of more information...http://www.amazon.com/...964?%5Fencoding=UTF8
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