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Climbing strength / weight training
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elchupey


Feb 3, 2006, 12:18 AM
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Climbing strength / weight training
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Hello everyone and thank you for the vast amount of information... its really helpful to those of us who are new to climbing. Ive been reading this forum for some time (especially the noob section) and haven't been able to find a good answer for this ? I climb in a gym nearly every day....bouldering and traversing....as I work in a climbing gym :) I recently started traversing while holding each move for 3 seconds to strengthen my skills in foot and hand placement (and its a hell of a work out) but feel i could do more after i go bonk. Is it safe to lift weights after or before such a work (usually an hour of traversing)? I'm really interested in strength / endurance as well as generating the 30 extra pounds i have into muscle. I also cycle to and from work (appr. 2.5 miles each way) and started beginners Yoga. Any other suggestions for strength / endurance training that can compliment this line up?


yokese


Feb 3, 2006, 12:28 AM
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My 2 cents:

In reply to:
...Ive been reading this forum for some time (especially the noob section)...
good
In reply to:
...I climb in a gym nearly every day...
not so good. Resting days are as important as climbing days, specially if you're new to climbing and carry 30 extra pounds.
In reply to:
... traversing while holding each move for 3 seconds to strengthen my skills in foot and hand placement..
good
In reply to:
... Is it safe to lift weights after or before such a work (usually an hour of traversing)?
ALARM!... INJURY AHEAD! :)

In reply to:
I also cycle to and from work (appr. 2.5 miles each way) and started beginners Yoga.
good and good
In reply to:
Any other suggestions for strength / endurance training
The question is: are you sure that what you need to improve your climbing is more strength/endurance??


davidji


Feb 3, 2006, 12:40 AM
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Lifting weights after your bouldering work is probably fine.

If you're bouldering hard, you probably need rest days. If you lift after, you need it more.

Training hard is good--if you don't hurt yourself. But you've got to give yourself recovery time.


cintune


Feb 3, 2006, 12:46 AM
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Check the Similar Topics below. Lots of good and some not-so-good advice there.


arrowhead


Feb 7, 2006, 2:16 AM
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Rest days are equally as important as training. They give time for the muscles to rest, recover and grow. Otherwise, the muscles wouldn't have a chance to build itself!


curt


Feb 7, 2006, 2:22 AM
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In reply to:
Lifting weights after your bouldering work is probably fine....

Yeah, it's probably fine. Of course, it won't do a thing to improve your climbing or bouldering ability. :wink:

Curt


davidji


Feb 7, 2006, 2:27 AM
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Yeah, it's probably fine. Of course, it won't do a thing to improve your climbing or bouldering ability. :wink:
Said the guy who used his gymnastic strength to help become a strong boulderer.


curt


Feb 7, 2006, 2:38 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Yeah, it's probably fine. Of course, it won't do a thing to improve your climbing or bouldering ability. :wink:
Said the guy who used his gymnastic strength to help become a strong boulderer.

Good point. However, there is far better correlation between gymnastic prowess and climbing ability than there is between weight training and climbing ability.

Curt


davidji


Feb 7, 2006, 3:08 AM
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In reply to:
Good point. However, there is far better correlation between gymnastic prowess and climbing ability than there is between weight training and climbing ability.
That makes sense to me.


turfguy


Feb 7, 2006, 5:48 PM
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you should rest...i climb in the gym 3x a week in winter(can't wait till spring)...and weight train 2-3x a week...alternating days...plus stretching and yoga...for endurance training run laps on the wall(all i do)


bahandi


Feb 8, 2006, 4:26 AM
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what i find most difficult is saying no the the call of the wall.

at my gym, there is a climbing wall staffed by a great bunch of guys... and for some reason, this wall is never lacking in beautiful girls. :D

what i like about this wall is that there is a corner route which one can ascend without handholds. so after my workout, i just climb that route for the majority of my time at the wall.

it's scary thinking that doing something i like to do too often may put me out for a couple of months, so i'm slowly taking the 'easier routes' (juggy holds) and reducing the number of climbs i do.

hopefully, i can get hired to the wall and just belay people, allowing my hands to rest. as far as working out goes, i still do it. limiting one muscle group a day. (eg. chest on monday, back on tuesday, etc.)


squierbypetzl
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Feb 8, 2006, 4:31 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Good point. However, there is far better correlation between gymnastic prowess and climbing ability than there is between weight training and climbing ability.
That makes sense to me.

What? Lycra?


jdubya


Feb 8, 2006, 2:29 PM
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If your going to climb hard for an hour, and then work out, don't work out the muscles that just got a "work out" from climbing. Such as, don't go doing wrist curls for your forearms, don't do biceps, but you could go work out the muscles you don't use, like the triceps or something.

Just remember, everytime you work out, your muscle tissue tears, so you need to get good protein and nutrients for them and allow them to grow back. If you work out too much, you will just continue tearing on already torn muscle, and end up not getting stronger and possibly with severe inflammation in a muscle...trust me, don't go there!


mikej


Feb 9, 2006, 5:20 PM
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jdubya wrote
If your going to climb hard for an hour, and then work out, don't work out the muscles that just got a "work out" from climbing. Such as, don't go doing wrist curls for your forearms, don't do biceps, but you could go work out the muscles you don't use, like the triceps or something.

Am i the only one thats baffled by this? My biceps are almost never sore after climbing, even on overhangs and stupid low sit starts. My triceps almost always get a workout. I used to lift weights to "improve" my climbing, but most of it is so irrelevant to climbing it didn't really do anything. Look up the HIT method for improving your climbing ability. if you cant do something like that, adding reverse pull ups, push ups and stuff like that which includes using your own body for exercise works great. Try doing push ups with your body sideways. it works more muscles than traditional push ups.


jdubya


Feb 9, 2006, 7:01 PM
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My point was to work out the muscles that your not using much to climb. It's different for every person, the only thing thats really ever sore for me after a session is my forearms and finger tendons\pulleys. Personally, my biceps usually are fine, and I don't see how your triceps can be tired, but hey, thats your body, not mine.


chrisparedes


Feb 9, 2006, 7:08 PM
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Check out this link, it should help you to decide when to train hard and when to rest.


http://climbing.com/print/techtips/ttsport238/


anykineclimb


Feb 9, 2006, 7:21 PM
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Definately take a break and not climb 7 days a week.
Theres a saying:
"theres no such thing as over-training; only under-resting"

As for "weight training", I'd say just go with your basic pushups, pullups, chinups, situps, squats and dips.

You'll get plenty of a workout doing these than lifting a bar.


mikej


Feb 9, 2006, 7:40 PM
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jdubya Posted: and I don't see how your triceps can be tired, but hey, thats your body, not mine


if you're working on problems with mantling, gastoning, or long static moves, or if you're going up, you use your triceps more. the latter wont really make them sore, but the first 3 can.


jdubya


Feb 9, 2006, 7:57 PM
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Yeah I can see how mantling etc... would work your triceps out somewhat


bahandi


Feb 10, 2006, 4:13 AM
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In reply to:
Theres a saying:
"theres no such thing as over-training; only under-resting"

is that really how the saying goes? i'm confused because people warn me about overtraining all the time.

In reply to:
As for "weight training", I'd say just go with your basic pushups, pullups, chinups, situps, squats and dips.

You'll get plenty of a workout doing these than lifting a bar

i guess it really depends on his purpose of weight lifting. because i have a weight lifting regime, i notice that i can perform certain 'strength moves' better than others. though technique will always win.


mikej


Feb 10, 2006, 2:49 PM
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I think that sentence, "no such thing as over-training, just under-resting", says it in the language. You can train as much as you want, just make sure you're rested before the next training session or you can over stress your body. Tendons, as we all know are the first things that seem to give out on over-training and if you mess those up you'll get plenty of rest.


bahandi


Feb 11, 2006, 6:08 AM
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oh... i see now... thanks for clarifying. i had to read that sentence over emphasizing different parts of the sentence.


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