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flatstateclimber
Jan 22, 2006, 11:57 PM
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In reply to: I read the other posts, and while geographically Texas may be a southern state, culturally, it is definitely NOT part of the south. Neither is Florida.
Florida is quite southern, though the further south you get, the more northern it gets, with SE Fla. being more like Manhattan with palm trees. In this context, however, Florida doesn't matter because we have no rocks to climb. Excellent buildering though!
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crazyscuba
Jan 23, 2006, 1:33 AM
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wow, you're trying pretty hard to be the same as states like arkansas and mississippi. if thats what you really want then go for it.
steve
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mikej
Feb 10, 2006, 6:58 PM
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Hey Calii, don't get me wrong, because I'd take bouldering any day over other climbing, but don't go stompin on what started this whole thing. I used to think of trad as this scary thing that only dumb people do, until i realized a few things. First, there was only scrambling and free soloing before trad, bouldering didn't really exist. I definitely agree that boulders are more powerful, but traddies could climb laps around us. Ya, most of them will probably never see a 5-10, but they get an experience we cant, hardly even in sport. Check out the lotus flower tower vid on petzl.com, go to site map and you'll find videos, seeing stuff like this makes me want to trad. I'm not even sure who you're responding to, but that's like baggin on Thomas Jefferson because he didn't write with a computer.
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furrymurry
Feb 10, 2006, 8:04 PM
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I just have two things to say:
1. it's bouldering, who cares
2. boulder problems should still be graded on the B-scale: B0 = easy, B1= hard, B2 = ridiculous/unrepeated
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sidepull
Feb 10, 2006, 8:29 PM
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Fake reason that makes him seem part of the climbing ethos:
In reply to: These are the problems that all of the other problems round here are measured by. I'm just super bummed to see them go. Know what I mean? I feel like it's dishonoring the first ascentionists,
Real reason that reveals he's a spraylord:
In reply to: and on top of that it seems that if I quit climbing now in a few years I'll have climbed way harder than ever before. |
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jitterbugclimb
Feb 10, 2006, 8:40 PM
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In reply to: I just have two things to say: 1. it's bouldering, who cares 2. boulder problems should still be graded on the B-scale: B0 = easy, B1= hard, B2 = ridiculous/unrepeated
No offense, but how would that be any less confusing? And I believe the B scale goes to B3 anyway. Take grades with a grain of salt. No one is perfect and it's not easy to assign a number to things like this. The problems that I have graded are open for all to interpret. It wouldn't hurt my feelings if you find an easier sequence or method and recommend a lower grade for one of my problems or vice verse. It doesn't detract from the line, and I think as boulderers that's what we're all after-a great line.
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thorne
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Feb 10, 2006, 8:58 PM
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In reply to: Texas is, indeed, southern, but it's not Southern. southern is a geographical position. Southern has to do with a mindset that, while similar to the "Don't Mess with Texas" vibe, still distinguishes itself through subtle linguistic and sociological differences. Unpleasantly, "Southern" states have a decidedly checkered past, and, frankly, I don't know why Texas would want any part of it. Texas wasn't around when Southern was created. It was still a territory or, at best, a republic.
When exactly was "Southern" created?
Texas joined the United States in 1845 as the 28th state. During the Civil War, Texas seceded from the Union and joined the Confederate States of America.
That said, I think just about everyone thinks of Hueco Tanks as being in the Southwest.
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starkcontrast
Feb 10, 2006, 9:00 PM
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for the record, the orb was origionally a v9 it was downrated to a v6 by andrew trayler.
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mikej
Feb 10, 2006, 9:19 PM
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I think jitterbugclimb has a point. I like the idea of the b scale, that is removing number chasing from our heads at least somewhat, but since there's such a wide range in this scale, i think it poses problems for new boulderers. how would you know what to try? If i were a v1 climber, I'd find this very depressing. "Let me get on this easy problem", they'd say only to find out that its a v5 and aren't likely of getting it anytime soon. Besides, within the v scale it is hard enough to compare one climb to another even of the same rating. There was a 10 pt problem (v0)at the last pbb that nobody i saw could get up including people I've seen send v6 or v7. and to whoever said, "it's bouldering, who cares", I CARE, and for anyone who agrees with that statement, go live in your box.
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wyclimber
Feb 15, 2006, 5:32 AM
Post #61 of 69
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Just wanted to chime in on a few things in this thread.
1. A.korn - Have you ever seen Another Litz Blitz at Lily? I think its graded V12 and quite conservitively I'd say.
2. The Orb is V8, and have you ever seen the video of AT (campusing it in his tenny's with a jay in his mouth) he makes it look like Vb.
3. Paul Robinson is crushing these days everywhere he goes - not just a few V11's anymore. Props son. He should have another go at GM if he hasn't already sent.
4. Expect to find easy problems that stroke your ego and sandbags that crush it five minutes later at every area you go to. Unless you have a personal guide at each area, this is what your in for, don't take it personally.
5. Every problem will be upgraded by one person and downgraded by the next, it is the nature of the game.
6. Texans are retarded, don't ever piss one off though. Ooops.....
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ccox
Mar 9, 2006, 6:27 AM
Post #62 of 69
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Get Bob's balls out of your mouth.
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sidepull
Mar 9, 2006, 7:51 PM
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In reply to: Get Bob's balls out of your mouth.
odd comment given the homonyms related to your screen name.
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jlane
Mar 17, 2006, 8:15 AM
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In reply to: Bring back Gill's system, I agree. What's funny is remembering, about 15 years ago, Bob Murray chucking huge dynos off of arbitrary little pisser pocket holds on the Streambed Wall in Socorro, New Mexico, in his bare feet. Ultra-ripped, ultra-strong, ultra-in-his-own-world. If you were to go try to slap V-grades on these things now, or even try to climb them, you'd get taught. I've yet to see harder-looking moves, anywhere.
best old post made by a weak old man on a piss poor board. yeah, no kids today can campus!! If you had said something about offhands crack or highball friction slab, im with you.
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 29, 2006, 9:48 PM
Post #65 of 69
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In reply to: um, waht about God Module? only a "V10" now? i know of 2 SOLID V11 climbers who got pretty much shot down by it. Paul Robinson (6 V11's, including The Egg in Squamish and Venus in Scorpio, Gunks) came close to the first move. Nick Bocchicchio (Karajo, Bismark V11, Death Penalty V10) just walked away from it laughing. and if u know anything about him, u DOESN'T get intimidated by ANYTHING. |
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 29, 2006, 9:56 PM
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In reply to: um, waht about God Module? only a "V10" now? i know of 2 SOLID V11 climbers who got pretty much shot down by it. Paul Robinson (6 V11's, including The Egg in Squamish and Venus in Scorpio, Gunks) came close to the first move. Nick Bocchicchio (Karajo, Bismark V11, Death Penalty V10) just walked away from it laughing. and if u know anything about him, u DOESN'T get intimidated by ANYTHING.
A friend of mine did it in 5 tries. But then again he is strong as hell. Sent Lucky sharms V-Sharma, and One-Zen V10ish (Flashed the crux, the stuck it 3rd try) in Squamish...among others. Does that that mean it is not V11 I don't know. But to me it says that it can be done, so once I get stronger, I will have a new project.
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eellis
Mar 29, 2006, 11:09 PM
Post #67 of 69
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Does Arkansas count as the South East?
Thought Chris Sharma sent his hardest problem ever there "Wittness the fitness"
But he wisely neglected to grade the thing if I rember correctly.
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 30, 2006, 3:25 AM
Post #68 of 69
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Expect to find easy problems that stroke your ego and sandbags that crush it five minutes later at every area you go to. Unless you have a personal guide at each area, this is what your in for, don't take it personally.
right on.
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 30, 2006, 3:27 AM
Post #69 of 69
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[quote="wyclimber"]Just wanted to chime in on a few things in this thread.
Expect to find easy problems that stroke your ego and sandbags that crush it five minutes later at every area you go to. Unless you have a personal guide at each area, this is what your in for, don't take it personally."
right on.
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