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climbmetolius
Feb 14, 2006, 8:39 AM
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Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 18
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Ok i've been climbing for 6 years. Mostly Bouldering, a little Sport, and quite a bit of trad follow.
I Boulder Solid V7.
Buuut....I've only Lead 5.10a/b (Sport) a few times.
I know i have the physical strength to climb harder
It seems that when i get into a cruxy move between bolts i become really afraid of falling. It doesn't even have to be cruxy when i climb above a bolt i can't relax and just focus on the climb itself. I start thinking about Gear and how strong is that bolt?......How far will i fall even though i'm 2 feet above the bolt....Willl i survive if i fall 6 feet above this bolt...stuff like that....
Any Suggestions???
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omegaprime
Feb 14, 2006, 9:10 AM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2004
Posts: 308
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Yeah, read the links in "Similar Topics" found at the bottom. Rock Warrior section comes to mind. :wink:
Sounds like you need mental training, and there's already lot of threads discussing the issue. You can choose one that fits you, and climb!
Have fun!
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 14, 2006, 1:52 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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The problem sounds like you don't do it enough. I would get a lot more experience with it, maybe take some practice falls in the gym, and then decide if it is a lack of mental strength.
Josh
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mikej
Feb 14, 2006, 5:20 PM
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Registered: Feb 7, 2006
Posts: 210
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hey, it sounds like we've got the same problem. I boulder about the same, and my hardest lead was recently an 11a. I had a bad fall a while ago, and as soon as i get above the bolts, i get freaked. I started getting on climbs i already knew, and stuff thats well bolted, like jacks canyon or red rocks. I read the rock warrior and it seemed to help. I didn't take in all the eastern philosophy in it, but the things about mentally defeating yourself are very true. If nothing else, I've enjoyed climbing much more and haven't had a frustrated day since then (in climbing that is). Do some lead in the gym if you can, that's all over bolted junk and the overhangs are pretty safe for falling. There's almost always a route on a pure roof in the lead area at a local gym and my buds and i have been skipping the last draw or so and taking 15 or 20 ft whippers just for the fun. That's helped big time. Don't be dumb about it, but you get the drift.
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