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punk
Aug 16, 2002, 7:29 AM
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Base on the “Ice season” thread and b/c some of u “Ice chasers” which happen in alpine environment (I hate u all for that ) I was wondering what u take on the clime that entitle technical AI ice and rock for 2
So here is me
Set of my old Rambo(silver curved shaft handle... hands down the lightest tools out there try under weight them….)or my Simond Piranhas
CM Black Ice
A 24” picket each
4 Ti screws
2 warthogs can be used as LA too
2 sml Ti angle
2 KB
4 Tricams
3 med to large nuts
2 large hexes
a bunch of Neutrinos
35’-40’ bulk webbing
2 Cordelettes
4 HMS locking (munter belay)
optional Alpine bod depending on the route u can make it from webbing
70m 9.4mm lead rope
70m 6mm rap line
what is your alpine rack forte
( I know Im a pack-rut)
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-08-16 00:38 ]
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bradhill
Aug 16, 2002, 9:17 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Hmm.. it really depends on the route and local rock. On limestone in the Canadian Rockies or mica-schist in Alaska I'm often tempted to ditch all the rock gear but for a few pins, cuz the pro opportunities are sucky to non-existent anyway.
Home in Colorado, land of lovely alpine granite (*kisses the rock*), on alpine routes that aren't predominantly rock but need rock pro I take two or three bugaboos, a baby angle, a few small aliens, four or five mid size nuts, DMM cams #2.5 & 3 (light!), a #10 or #11 Hex if I think I'll need it, a cam hook, a skyhook, and one metolius pocket aider. In summer I swap pins for micro nuts 'cuz I like to climb clean, but in winter iced up cracks just don't take pro.
For ice I take one 10cm, one 22cm (for V-threads) and up to four more mid-range, depending on conditions. Pickets either come along as a pair for glacier rescue anchors and tent stakes (not in CO) or in a set of 4 for simul-climbing steep slopes.
And I try to never forget to bring 10 long bamboo wands.
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bradhill
Aug 16, 2002, 9:26 PM
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Oh, yeah, can't forget a dozen single spectra runners, one double length, two rabbit runners, two cordellettes and a 30-40' piece and a couple of pre-cut 18" and 72" bits of flimsy 5kn supertape webbing just for bail slings and v-threads.
Sometimes I'll bring a Spectre, but F**K are those things HEAVY.
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punk
Aug 16, 2002, 10:03 PM
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U right brad,
The rout I was having in mind will be along the lines of wishbone aręte on Robson, Edith Cavell NF,
Black ice Couloir etc
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bradhill
Aug 16, 2002, 10:25 PM
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No hooks on your rack, punk?
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punk
Aug 16, 2002, 10:39 PM
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I guess U can do cliff hanger and cam hook however I did used my tools with slinging it close to the tip with sliding knot for occasional hook move very scary…but dose works and using a the back of KB that I file for cam hook(and so is the adz on the Simmond )…again scarier then shit…but it works if u don’t shift the worse happen to me was using a pebble hammered to the crack and slung around to makeshift for a size that I already used lower…but I said to myself never again
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-08-16 15:41 ]
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