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desrtrockrat
Feb 21, 2006, 7:42 PM
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Just wondering what the people thought about this question that popped up recently.
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caughtinside
Feb 21, 2006, 7:47 PM
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Not very well. I used to think I was spot on, but then maculated told me:
"I don't think you're as good as you think you are."
Hah!
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nevenneve
Feb 21, 2006, 7:55 PM
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Perhaps that womens intuition line of reasoning would hold more water in the ladies room.
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microbarn
Feb 21, 2006, 8:06 PM
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I am this close. --> |____|
to being spot on in my abilities.
You are going to have to clarify. I know I can do climbs that I just finished. I know I cannot do a climb I just failed on, but when you ask if I will be able to surpass the 2nd crux on the 17th pitch of some wall in Africa, I may not have enough information to answer. When I judge my abilities outside of climbing I vary in a similar manner. Overall, I haven't died. So, I would have to assume I have been sufficiently conservative in judging my abilities to take the appropriate precautions.
Do you have a direction you are heading with this question? What kind of answers are you even hoping for?
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epoch
Moderator
Feb 21, 2006, 8:09 PM
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I know that I am a horrible climber...
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csproul
Feb 21, 2006, 8:29 PM
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Do you mean climbing ability, like "can I climb that?" or do you mean their (not there) own judgment? If you mean ability, I think a lot of people have a good idea whether or not they can climb a route or not just by looking at it. If you mean experience/judgment then I think most people (I guess myself included) probably overestimate themselves.
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camhead
Feb 21, 2006, 9:30 PM
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"Donny, you're out of your element!"
Seriously though, lately I have been getting a bit more into some runout routes, and have thus far been pretty good on judging my own abilities. It is just another facet of climbing that we must all work on.
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chossmonkey
Feb 21, 2006, 9:35 PM
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When setting goals I tend to over estimate. But when actually climbing I tend to under estimate my abilities.
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desrtrockrat
Feb 21, 2006, 10:54 PM
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Does every question have to have a definitive direction?.... My climbing doesnt have one... let this question go where it will.
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james_climber
Feb 21, 2006, 11:31 PM
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its a nice question, well sometimes when i have succes i feel big , but sometimes i see the reality and :roll:
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climbsomething
Feb 21, 2006, 11:43 PM
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I'm pretty aware of what I can and CAN'T do. I know what I can lead. I know what I *should* lead. I know what I can toprope. I know my tolerance for downclimbing sketch (I make sure other people know it too! :P) I know what's within my physical ability but scares the crap out of me anyway. And the converses. I go with my sometimes-irrational female intuition. It's not a science... but I'm not a scientist.
OK, I don't know what I can boulder, but it ain't much anyway.
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antiqued
Feb 21, 2006, 11:46 PM
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In reply to: Do you mean climbing ability, like "can I climb that?" or do you mean their (not there) own judgment? If you mean ability, I think a lot of people have a good idea whether or not they can climb a route or not just by looking at it.
Wouldn't guidebooks be a lot skinnier if people could judge by looking?
Gunks guidebook;
80 miles N of NYC, take NY 299 W from New Paltz ~7 miles past ESE facing cliffs. Park on right and pay fee. Cliffs from 80-250' high, routes from 5.0 to 5.13, predominantly 5.6-5.11. Natural gear with occasional resident bolts or pins. Muggy in midsummer, can be climbed on the nicer winter days - primo in fall. (Northern cliff with tower is closed.)
THE END
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curt
Feb 22, 2006, 1:29 AM
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In reply to: How well do climbers judge their abilities?
It's probably just like driving--90% of people think they're better than average. :wink:
Curt
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kixx
Feb 22, 2006, 3:07 AM
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Forget it.
Either you made it up the climb or you didn't. If you did make it, you're not good because you're not pushing yourself, if you didn't make it and you didn't try it again your not good because you're not pushing yourself.
If you fail and try, try again you are the best - forget what all the mags and dvd's and ice festivals, and competitions say. That's all consumer driven.
Climbers need to be driven on their own without all this shite to make them feel good about themselves. Forget everybody else.
I have no idea what grade I can climb... not a clue. And I have no desire to find out.
Bliss
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klippa_klattra
Feb 22, 2006, 4:27 AM
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I will attempt most things. I have tried a lot of stuff that was way beyond me, but that is how I get better. If I only try climbing what I know I can do, then where is the challenge? Don't get me wrong though, I don't even pretend that I'm better than I am. I just say, "well, sure, I'll try it"
Leading... I'm a beginner at this, very new to it. I wont lead unless I feel like I can do it... yes I've taken some big lead falls, but I finished! and it was a challenge.
most climbers I have spent time with don't tend to brag, they seem more modest than anything, and the ones that aren't, I tend not to enjoy spending time with as much.
I think any person with a bit of common sense is able to judge fairly accurately their own abilities based off of experience.
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superbum
Feb 22, 2006, 5:31 AM
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I think the answer to this question is very relevent and important, especially when planning to do a longer climb. Say the crux of the route is on the 9th pitch and is hard 5.11 The climb is say 17 pitches long. You've got to kinda know if you can pull it off. If you are not in tune w/ how strong you are, things could get slow, then dangerous...OR say you know you can't climb 5.11 but the route inspires you. OK, fine. Aid climb it right? Now you are in whole new world where different abilities become relevant. In short, the closer in tune w/ your abilities you are, the more doors are open to you and the more successes you will find.
I am not talking about numbers and grades so much as knowing your body and mind as one unit. Sure, grades are a good measuring stick to get to know your raw physical abilities. BUT will you be able to pull off those 5.11 moves w/ 900 feet of air sucking on your butcheeks and bad pro? You're a 5.12 climber so you start to say yes, until you realize you are a big wus and are scared to fall on bolts.
The more you climb and push your limits the more you will know about your "abilities" and the safer and more in tune you will be...
word.
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