|
majoringinclimbing
Feb 23, 2006, 5:10 AM
Post #1 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 169
|
Alright so a group of 8 of us from the flatlands of Nebraska are heading Southeast for spring break (the 11 through the 18) and we are going to go to HP40 and Rocktown. We have 4 climbers in the V0-V1 range at best, 2 in V1-V2, and two of us who could push V4-V5ish. Some of the crew does not want to have to pay to stay at HP40 the whole time so we are going to divide the trip up. The question is how many days would you spend at each place. Money is a small factor but not enough to do the whole trip to rocktown! Thanks!
Matt
|
|
|
|
|
dubforceone
Feb 23, 2006, 5:43 AM
Post #2 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 83
|
i dont know about rocktown except that i heard it is excellent....hp40 is also awesome and you will all have plenty of problems to work down there in that range...i was there for a day and a half and climbed probably 20 problems...v4 and under....and got shutdown on atleast twice that many problems...
|
|
|
|
|
3d_ontario
Feb 23, 2006, 3:05 PM
Post #3 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 18
|
I've only spend a half day in Rocktown and I was by myself, and spent a few days at Horse Pens. So I would recommend only a day or two in Rocktown the rest in HP40... There is nothing better than HP's down there... The close proximity of the problems and the quality is unparralelled, plus they have showers, water, and outhouses...
Horse Pens, Horse Pens, Horse Pens!!!
|
|
|
|
|
mchristie
Feb 23, 2006, 3:29 PM
Post #4 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2006
Posts: 51
|
I grew up very close to Rock town and have climbed there for many years, and I will tell you that the place is absolutely wonderful for beginners. One thing about Rocktown for beginners....Don't worry about all of the established problems that have chalk on them. There is a world of faces and traverses that never have chalk on them that are in the 5.10- v2 range. check out the guide at drtopo so you have something to orient yourself to the area. There are many good moderates near the orb, and then a world of moderates around the hueco simulator. Camping is free, and rocktown has a great, low key scene. Enjoy the Southern sandstone!!!!
Matt
|
|
|
|
|
feanor007
Feb 23, 2006, 3:33 PM
Post #5 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 377
|
never been to hp40, but love rock town, i only boulder ~v2 and i had a blast for a weekend there and am saving tutoring money to go back asap, so much stuff that doesn't make it in the press b/c it's to easy, but man, there is no end to rock there, esp for weaker climbers, don't know what hp40 is like though
|
|
|
|
|
hillbillywannabe
Feb 23, 2006, 4:21 PM
Post #6 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2005
Posts: 415
|
i live near rock town. camping is free, but there isn't really any water or bathrooms but the bouldering is pretty good and down the hill there is "the lost wall" with some good trad. i have heard good things about "little rock city" which is near by. but you have to have a pass or somthing, its free though. i'll bet you can get some good beta at TBA the local bouldering gym. they have a website just google tennesee bouldering authority or something of the sort.
|
|
|
|
|
verbal
Feb 23, 2006, 4:56 PM
Post #7 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2001
Posts: 39
|
One of the good things about both of these areas is that there are tons of all grades of problems. HP40 has some of the most fun V0-V1's I have ever been on, and alot of them. Same goes for Rocktown. You can't go wrong with either place, you could go half and half, or 5 and 1, or whatever. A week could easily be spent at both places, especially if you climb harder. Have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
ninja_climber
Feb 23, 2006, 5:31 PM
Post #8 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 403
|
HP40 = America's Bleu
I havn't been to Rocktown,but HP40 is awsome. Free showers, camp, bathroom...plus...they have swings! HP40 has a lot of problems in that range including some of the classics (Mortal Kombat, etc,etc).
|
|
|
|
|
billydude
Feb 23, 2006, 6:19 PM
Post #9 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 26, 2004
Posts: 84
|
i think if you're going to want to spend the bulk of your time anywhere HP40 is the place to go. with so much to do in such a small place you could be there for a week an not hit up all of it. also, its one place that every climber needs to climb (the creek, yosemite, etc) because of its slopers. once you leave you will never again have problems with slopers. with problems like The Crown V3 Bum Boy V3/4 and Genisis V3 one could climb for months. Not to mention you would have to drive to Rocktown which will cost you money and your tips will be so blown from HP that Rocktown would just be too painful. Be sure to post on how the trip went.
|
|
|
|
|
styndall
Feb 23, 2006, 7:30 PM
Post #10 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741
|
I've spent a lot of time at both Rocktown and HP40. Where you should spend most of your time depends on what you're looking for.
For the beginners, Rocktown is the obvious choice. There's a huge quantity of easy rock, some 5.7-ish highballs to get your blood flowing, and even some roof routes (the warm-up route on the Orb boulder, for instance) that go at VB or V1. Plus, it'll be way less crowded than HP40. You don't get the big crowds of boulders swinging cameras and video gear and screaming for their big sends. I've even had Rocktown to myself on a good number of occasions. The camping situation there has changed recently; you'll have to stop by the ranger kiosk to see what the deal is.
HP40 does have a greater concentration of problems. You never have to walk more than maybe a quarter of a mile to get to even the furthest of the boulders, and there are some incredible problems in the V1-V5 range up there. The Beach, at 4 or 5, is probably my favorite problem in the world, slopy and dynamic, and the Crown at about 2, is aesthetic and has a great toss to the top out, making for an exciting fall if you miss. Man With the Slow Hand, at around 4, is also totally classic, and is weird and technical and fun. The downside here is the crowds. Solitude and quiet are totally impossible.
With a big crowd of new climbers, I'd hit Rocktown first, spend three or four days climbing, take a rest day to let your fingertip heal, and then head to HP40. Keep in mind that your tips will be shredded, moreso by the finer sandstone at HP40 than at Rocktown. I've never left Horsepens oozing blood from fewer than 6 out of ten fingertips. You'll have a great time either way.
|
|
|
|
|
montentcontent
Feb 23, 2006, 8:22 PM
Post #11 of 11
(982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 48
|
Never been to Rocktown, but HP is amazing (plus, I'll be there in approximately 10 hrs!). That said, don't short yourself at either place. There are so many amazing places to climb in your life, try to get to as many as possible.
styndall - My goal for this trip is Man with the Slow Hand, it's been haunting me for 2 months.
|
|
|
|
|
|
