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maivia
Aug 8, 2002, 7:00 PM
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I was considering getting the FiveTen Dragon since i do only sport climbing, so i encounter a lot of steep overhangs. Any comments on the shoes cos i\'d like to know the pros and cons of it plus its performance before i shell out serious cash for it.
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fiend
Aug 8, 2002, 7:14 PM
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I tried on my bro's pair once and found them to kick some serious ass on the steeps.
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pir8penguin
Aug 8, 2002, 9:25 PM
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aren't they the same last as the v10s? if so, they're jsut as good i bet, except according to reviews the buckles tend to dig into the foot in cracks (but who really climbs cracks with shoes like those?)
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xanx
Aug 9, 2002, 2:54 AM
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i have seen ppl stand in the bolt holes in the gym with these shoes. i got a pair (shipping form washington state via ups, could be awhile...) and from what i gather from trying them on they are sweet. Don't get v10, same last, no velcro
unless u r cheapskape, that is
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pir8penguin
Aug 9, 2002, 5:03 AM
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"don't get..." is never good advice. what if somebody wants a shoe with the same last, but more sensitivity? since the dragon has the question-shaped midsole that the zlipper has to provide better edging without robbing as much sensitivity, and the v10 has no midsole, the v10 would be perfect.
it's not a bad idea, either...i'd love to have them, but i'm not sure i wanna spend $130 US for a slipper, unless if f*cking rocks. it seems like it would.
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maivia
Aug 9, 2002, 5:18 AM
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i appreciate all ur views, and likewise, i was having a tough time trying to decide between the dragon and the v10. both offer the same ass-kickin' stuff but the dragon seems to have an edge over the v10 with its velcro system. it offers to customised fit possibilities of a laceup plus the added convenience (if not even MORE convenient) of a slipper. watcha guys think?
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xanx
Aug 9, 2002, 5:47 AM
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to pir8penguin:
wtf are u climbing if u need something more sensative than a dragon!? either you have the largest callouses on you feet in the history of man or you want to have sexual intercourse with the rock through your feet if you need that much sensativity.
v10 = good (translate =cheaper)
dragon = better
spend the extra $20! everyone i talk to who has had both likes dragon more.
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maivia
Aug 9, 2002, 10:10 AM
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whao... chill out guys... pir8penguin, thanx a mil for ur comments, but i gotta go with xanx on this count.. if dragons dun give me enuf sensitivity, god knows what else can.. xanx, i guess you've totally convinced me to get meself a pair of drags. (seriously, i was kinda leaning towards them since the beginning, just needed an itsy bitsy push.. LOL)
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jdean
Aug 9, 2002, 10:59 AM
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I have a pair of the V10's and they climb really well. They have the new Stealth HF rubber on them which is 20% stickier (i.e., softer) than C4. I could have gotten either them or the Dragons but I like slippers and don't want to fool with the velcro. I do a lot of overhang climbing and they stick to the wall like glue. They are also decent for vertical stuff, but I tend to use my Cobras for that. One thing to watch out for on the V10's (Climbing mag's shoe review will also tell you this) is their poor attention to construction detail. I have been lucky thus far and they have not fallen apart, but they still look a little thin in places. Hopefully next years model will be better.
M@
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leadingedge
Aug 9, 2002, 11:24 AM
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Dragons are great, I had them for a while now do ont regret buying them. They perform great on steep and vertical climbs. I personally find the heel hooks very precise.
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pir8penguin
Aug 9, 2002, 11:29 AM
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well, considering i currently climb in mocs, any shoe with a midsole it going to be less sensitive. the dragon is, i'm sure, a very sensitive shoe. i'm sure it would work fine for bouldering and in the gym, but i'd rather have a true slipper, and get them as non-edge-supportive as possible, while retaining their usefullness. in fact, it really goes to the core of my trianing lately: footwork (it's just a rut i've been in) and it's good practice. if you can stand on dimes edges in mocs, then standing on them with shoes that actually have a midsole will be so bomber, it'll feel like cheating!
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koravas
Aug 17, 2002, 5:22 PM
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I'm just wondering if the dragons are better than the v10s in almost every way. Why do I see so many of the pros using the v10s?
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paintinhaler
Aug 17, 2002, 6:04 PM
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-maivia-, always check out ebay.com for good deals on shoes.
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drewcoleman
Aug 17, 2002, 6:10 PM
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Anasazi's all the way, nothing else matters!
Drew
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coconutz
Aug 17, 2002, 6:20 PM
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I was going to buy a pair to replace my scazi velcros and tired them on. I have not only narrow feet but also low volume, not the best combo in the world. When I tried them on the toe box and heel cup fit great but on the the top of both the Dragon and the V10 (where the elastic is that sits on top of your arch) I had a huge amount of slop and no down sizing/velcroing combo could get rid of that:( . SO I didn't buy them got a new pair of scazis, BTW 5.10 is making a new piar of scazi velcros that have a midsole that goes althe way out the rand, you can actually see it on the outside of the shoe. Supposed to be edging machines.
[ This Message was edited by: coconutz on 2002-08-17 20:32 ]
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carnaged
Aug 17, 2002, 6:38 PM
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Five ten Dragons rock the rock!
I have to admit, but I sure do miss my good ol' bouldering machs'~
Kat
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pir8penguin
Aug 18, 2002, 5:23 AM
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hey, coco...how about a link or something to these new velcro's?
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bsperes
Aug 19, 2002, 2:07 PM
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Pro's wear V10's because they are easier to get on and off. Dragons are killer to put on/off.
If you are climbing tons of severly overhanging stuff and doing hard bouldering dragons are good (if they fit your foot). Otherwise go with the straight velcros or some other shoe.
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xanx
Aug 19, 2002, 5:04 PM
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about that new shoe coco was talking about... there is no link! the only way i know about it (called like T-Rock i think, but i could be 100% wrong...) is because i saw a shoe product guide at my gym... i guess five-ten sends them out to gym owners... it had three or four new shoesL: the prism (a $1000 US shoe...) this new anasazi edging machine, a new rental type shoe, and i think one more. they are not on the website or anywhere else, though.
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