|
verticaltrip
Mar 27, 2006, 3:13 AM
Post #1 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2006
Posts: 49
|
how do you decreas rope drag for TRing?
|
|
|
|
|
flyinglow
Mar 27, 2006, 3:18 AM
Post #2 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2005
Posts: 77
|
Like so many other things in life, you'll know it when you experience it.
|
|
|
|
|
tattooed_climber
Mar 27, 2006, 3:22 AM
Post #3 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
|
fuck sakes :roll:
when gear is popin or you can't move
|
|
|
|
|
okclimbermatt
Mar 27, 2006, 3:24 AM
Post #4 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2004
Posts: 52
|
Any time you're fighting the rope for upward progress is much too much. Use long runners!
|
|
|
|
|
omegaprime
Mar 27, 2006, 3:27 AM
Post #5 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2004
Posts: 308
|
Seems like this question is more suitable for "Beginners" than "Gear Heads".
|
|
|
|
|
omegaprime
Mar 27, 2006, 3:57 AM
Post #6 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2004
Posts: 308
|
I see you've changed your post. Would be better to just post another message to correct your question though, then others would be able to see the change and respond accordingly.
Now, could you be more specific on what kind of TR rope drag you're talking about here? If you're talking about decreasing the force required to belay on a normal TR (say, with using a pulley), there's other threads that has already discussed that topic to death, one of it is this.
Try to ask complete questions. Short questions like that makes you look like a troll, and people won't be able to understand what exactly you're trying to find out.
|
|
|
|
|
okclimbermatt
Mar 27, 2006, 4:05 AM
Post #7 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2004
Posts: 52
|
Extend the anchor with long runners. Some routes are not good to top rope.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 27, 2006, 6:37 AM
Post #8 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
If you extend the anchor over an edge or a bulge, double-up, back-up the runners. Scraping sideways under load, or any bouncing up and down on the rope, will tend to abrade the webbing.
I have a photo somewhere of a short piece of old 11mm lead rope that was used to extend a hauling anchor over a fairly smooth bulge. The cyclical loading of the extension stretched it, rubbing it on the rock. The sheath wore through and it parted, leaving about six inches of the core exposed!
If you do alot of TR and lowering off, you might want to get a pulley. Lowering off wears grooves in biners, especially if the rope is dirty and gritty. Don't use a wimpy pulley. Get a totally bomber one, and back it up by putting one or two big lockers on the belayer side of the rope, fairly close to the pulley.
|
|
|
|
|
keithlester
Deleted
Mar 27, 2006, 4:31 PM
Post #9 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
The simplest way to decrease rope drag on TR is to use doubled HMS screwgates to pass the rope through, and to make sure you have a direct line to your belayer without the rope dragging over any rock. The larger a radius the rope can pass over at the anchor, the less the drag.
Hope I havent been trolled, but thats an honest answer if your question was honest.
|
|
|
|
|
chrisparedes
Mar 27, 2006, 5:24 PM
Post #10 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2004
Posts: 211
|
Use DMM Revolver biners to run your rope through. These also work well for the first bolt on sport routes.
|
|
|
|
|
catbird_seat
Mar 28, 2006, 12:09 AM
Post #11 of 11
(1249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2004
Posts: 425
|
The DMM Biner would work, but it would be a shame to scratch up such a beautiful and expensive biner by dragging it around on the rock.
|
|
|
|
|
|
