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mountainmiss
Apr 1, 2006, 11:49 PM
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Starting leading trad last year. I have a few BD cams, but need to add stoppers and probably a couple of hexes (or no?). I climb mostly in the Red, Seneca Rock, New Hampshire. Any suggestions on which brand(s) I should consider? What about hexes? Also, please comment on the sizes that are most commonly used (if you are familiar with the areas I climb at)Thanks.
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mikewong
Apr 3, 2006, 4:12 AM
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I think any brand will do so long as you get used to the sizes and geometry needed for any particular crack shape/size. I have BD's mostly (2+ sets) but also some cheap Trango's and Camp's for variety.
I like the Wild country curve hexes and have since retired my BD's. I don't like the wire even though you can get extra reach because they 1) don't cam as well as cord, and 2) can work loose with rope movement when in stopper mode.
Just my 2 cents
Mike
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ubotch
Apr 3, 2006, 5:05 AM
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Well, like with anything it is personal preference. Personally I like the Black Diamond Stoppers. I also have a set of the metolius curve nuts. I really dislike them.
With hexes some people think you should just spend the money on cams and others love their hexes. I usually carry the 3 largest Metolius curve hexes if I think I may need doubles in those sizes (even though I have the cams). If you do get hexes I would definetly say get curved ones like the Metolius or Wild Country. I have the Black Diamond hexes and don't like them at all.
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socialclimber
Apr 3, 2006, 6:03 AM
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I've only owned Wild Country Rocks, more than happy to recommend them. The BD wires are great too. Can't go wrong with either. If you are thinking about hexes, maybe you should consider Camp Tri-cams.
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dirtineye
Apr 3, 2006, 6:12 AM
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1. Do a fvcking search. This has been beaten to death.
2. Buy good ones.
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socialclimber
Apr 3, 2006, 6:21 AM
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In reply to: 1. Do a fvcking search. This has been beaten to death.
Hex's are waay better than tri-cams for beating things to death with
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slcliffdiver
Apr 3, 2006, 7:26 AM
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In reply to: 1. Do a fvcking search. This has been beaten to death. 2. Buy good ones.
Dude she mentioned what area's she climbs at specifically which makes a damn good question in my book.
A few more questions first. How much in a hurry are you in to build a rack? How much access do you have to other peoples racks? How much dough are you willing to blow? And how married are you filling out your larger to medium pro with hexes are you? I think regarless you should get the 2 smallest tricams 6-10 BD shaped stoppers (trapazoid from top view smoother curves form side view) and whatever corresponds to a #8 BD hex in wild country form. I'll fill in logic and other info later if you want but for now it's good night.
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heiko
Apr 3, 2006, 10:12 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: 1. Do a fvcking search. This has been beaten to death. Hex's are waay better than tri-cams for beating things to death with
Nothing beats the yellow tricam when beating things to death. ;)
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mountainmiss
Apr 3, 2006, 4:42 PM
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hmmm...wonder if dirtineye still has his boxers in a bunch. he didn't mention what he uses to beats things off to death, did he?? ;-)
slcliffdiver - I'm in no hurry to buy a full rack since I do have access to others' pro. trying to get an idea so i can keep my eye out for deals. got a full set of nuts (long Sentinals) new, on sale, thanks to replies to my post (this thread is listing twice, my error). I prefer cams, so don't want to invest in a lot of hexes, just want a few for now to get good at placement and cause I like to be self-sufficient and not always borrow. Thanks again to the posts, I found 4, used, (7,9,10,11) cheap, with cord instead of wire. Please fill me in on your logic, i'm interested in what you have to say...
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scrapedape
Apr 3, 2006, 4:53 PM
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I have found hexes useful on easier routes at Seneca. There are routes there that lend themselves well to leading without cams. I have Metolius hexes 6-9, plus the #9 WC Rockcentric. If I had to do it over again, I would get all WC.
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mountainmiss
Apr 3, 2006, 6:05 PM
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scrapedape, why would you get all WC's? what is it that you like about them? thanks -
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catbird_seat
Apr 3, 2006, 9:03 PM
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Seems like this is as good a thread as any to ask my question.
I own a set of BD hexes and I've borrowed Metolius hexes and placed several. The Metolius placements seem more solid than the BD in coarse or rough cracks, but they can be a bear to clean sometimes.
The design of the WC seems to be the best of both worlds, designed as they are with both concave and convex surfaces.
Is there anyone out there who has used both the Metolius and the WC who can comment on how they compare in practice?
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joeho
Apr 3, 2006, 10:09 PM
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If you're goign to get BD stoppers, you might as well get ABC huevos.
Not sure if they still make them because BD bought them out, but they're exactly the same thing, but they cost a lot less.
Also, I personally have 2 sets of nuts so that if one set doesn't fit, the other one might. The other ones I have are the DMM wallnuts
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moose_droppings
Apr 3, 2006, 10:33 PM
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In reply to: If you're goign to get BD stoppers, you might as well get ABC huevos.
In reply to: The other ones I have are the DMM wallnuts |
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socialclimber
Apr 4, 2006, 6:00 AM
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In reply to: Is there anyone out there who has used both the Metolius and the WC who can comment on how they compare in practice?
I own WC's, a partner owns Metolius nuts. The two complement each other quite well regarding size. The WC's go in a little more instinctively for me but I've used them more than I've used the Metolius. Interesting thing though, we have noticed with some beginners we bring along, that they get their heads around the WC's easier than the Metolius. Bottom line is: You get used to using what you have. WC and BD are a very safe bet for nuts.
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meesier42
Apr 14, 2006, 12:39 AM
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got DMM wallnuts and BD stoppers, but I like the DMM wallnuts better, seem to take better.
I don't know about which brand of Hexes to get, personnal use BD, but I know the Mets and WC have good reviews too.
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catbird_seat
Apr 14, 2006, 5:07 PM
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I was asking about hexes, not nuts.
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