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fitz
Aug 8, 2002, 8:59 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Actually, I thought that the set/reps in the article was high as well.
Again, workouts are individual, so take the following with a large grain of salt.
I think that, instead of 6 sets of 30 reps on a muscle group, spend that time climbing (if you can), cycling, hiking, etc. You'll make the same 'type' of strength gains, but in a more general, rounded way.
Because I have limited climbing and training time, I try to get the most out of my workouts. Weight training seems to get the most bang for its buck in developing concentrated power. So, I try to use that two ways, build burst power for climbing, and strengthing opposing muscles to prevent injury.
The 'burst' for climbing probably really only helps in terms of the confidence it gives, but stronger 'push' muscles have definately, I think, helped me stay relatively injury free climbing.
I use cycles, basically 4 weeks of power oriented sets (3 sets of 6), a week of rest (I stay with cardio), then 4 weeks of endurance oriented sets (3 sets of 12). A lot of the experts say 5 and 15, but 6 and 12 works well for me.
I don't try to do my whole body each workout, but focus on two muscle groups, three exercises each, each session. And, everyone knows you should do it, but don't... But, stretch, really stretch, after strength training. It's awkward at the gym (and possibly unsanitary!), so I stretch at home at night. It helps keep you flexible, and it really helps recovery time on the worked muscles.
Again, I'm not exactly keeping middle age at bay, so take the above with a HUGE grain of salt!
-jjf
[ This Message was edited by: fitz on 2002-08-08 15:45 ]
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monkeyface1982
Aug 22, 2002, 8:30 AM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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i find that weights help allot
but the best weight training is
light weights at high reps
this will build up tendon strength through out your joints
you wont end up looking like any body builder
if you want to look big do heavy weight
if you want strength do light weights and heap and heaps of reps
well i hope that helps
but the best thing is to just keep climbing as much as you can
then your working on every aspect of climbing
good luck
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suprepopps
Aug 22, 2002, 12:17 PM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Nov 7, 2001
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It all depends on what you want out of your lifting. The amount of size you build deals completely with genetics. Of course the more you lift the bigger you will get but the size you build is still almost primarily from genetics unless you are using steroids. It also depends on how you lift. If you lift for nothing but shear wieght and strength then you will build more size where as if you use lighter or moderate weight and higher reps, the size you gain will be minimal. Its called maintaining. Do what ever you feel comfortable with, but as everyone else has said, remember to stretch.
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gakin
Aug 22, 2002, 12:37 PM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Aug 13, 2002
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Alright, at risk of adding fuel to the fire here, weight lifting would benefit your climbing. To what extent is really up to you, and how much time you spend lifting. I believe that your concern was that you didn't want to add a great deal of mass, but tone up and strengthen the muscle that you currently have. Keep the weight a little lighter, and do high reps (12-15 to start) and 3 or 4 sets of each exercise. Try to make sure that you exercise opposing muscle groups too. (biceps/triceps, hamstrings/quads, ect) Antoher thing that will help with toning is to increase your cardio workout.
With that out of the way, I do have to agree with other post that climbing is the best training for climbing, BUT, I do believe that weight training, if done correctly, is a deffinate bennefit.
Hope that some of that made sense, and was at least a little helpful.
Keep Climbing.
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climb512
Aug 22, 2002, 2:03 PM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: May 19, 2001
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I noticed huge gains in my climbing ability when i started to lift,especially being 40 years old and havent lifted since my hockey days.
I dont use free weights anymore all hammer strength and cybex training. this way i am in and out of the gym in about an hour. ever other day i train the whole body, then on the other days i target muscle groups that are opposing the ones i climb with.
everyday i spend time on my home wall and 40 minutes to an hour on the tread mill for endurance.
helped a ton, been doing this for a month now and i am climbing stronger than ever.
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data118
Aug 22, 2002, 2:55 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Jul 4, 2002
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You can definitely see the benefits of weight lifting when you're cruising through overhangs, and caves.
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jds100
Aug 22, 2002, 6:40 PM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Aug 5, 2001
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I keep seeing repeated, "The best training for climbing is climbing." I have a feeling that this is pretty much being repeated like a parrot repeats what it hears, and is not an opinion based on experience. The same with the comments that express concern about losing flexibility. Anyone can stretch, whether or not they lift weights; lifting weights does not intrinsicly lead to a loss of flexibility, nor does it prevent someone from engaging in a stretching routine as part of a workout program.
"Climbing is the best training for climbing" comes from the research that has demonstrated that the best training for any sport (athlectic activity) is to do that sport or activity; climbing is not unique in this concept.
Does anyone really think that lifting weights to develop a solid base of strength will not help a climber climb overhanging jug hauls, or jug laden roofs?
Weight lifting will not, in and of itself, make someone a good climber, just like it won't make someone a good football player, or any other form of athlete. But, a strong body is a plus, and a must, in climbing (and other sports), so weight training can be -is- a beneficial part of training for climbing.
I suggest that those who are interested spend some time researching the training links at RC.com, and search the web for other training sites and articles, and do some reading. There are a lot of uninformed, poorly informed, and partially informed opinions out there, so, see what patterns of thought seem to be predominant, and also use common sense. (e.g 6 sets of 30 reps is excessive)
[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2002-08-22 11:41 ]
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