|
|
|
|
monkeyface1982
Aug 22, 2002, 9:44 AM
Post #1 of 3
(1115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 34
|
ok I've read most of the debate about placeing and removal of bolts.
now my Question is what do you all say about adding a first bolt down low on an old route if irrosion has caused the ground below to slip away?
at my local crag most of the climbs were put up 15 odd yrs ago, over time, rain has irroded the ground down approx 2-3 mt
meaning the original first bolt is 15 odd feet off the ground.
now the question is do you add a lower placed bolt for the added safty?
most of the starts are really hard now cause they wernt appart of the original climb
personally i belive that bolts are that bad a thing on certain climbs
anything that is a classic Trad route should be left as such
but if a group of ppl make aeven decision on "yes" it could help to have bomber safty
well then i think it is ok
i dont belive 1 person should make this decision.
bolts are there to save lives, there is no other reason other than that
thats all there put in to do
it comes back to personal ethic if you clip a bolt or do it all natural
so i hope you all understand my point of view and i hope this open your eyes to others view
we all have our own look on thing
i dont expect every one to agree
but all i say is understand that ppl there own veiw on things and respect there comments but dont take it all to heart
keep climbing so you enjoy it
thats what were all here to do enjoy it
dont bring too much politics in to it
youll kill the sport
what do you all think?
|
|
|
|
|
climbingcowboy
Aug 22, 2002, 11:06 AM
Post #2 of 3
(1115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 1201
|
Without getting into a bolting war/discussion
(theres already one of those on the site)
and to just answer your question if the irrosion is like around 10-15 feet deep making the first bolt 30 feet up there I would say yes AS LONG AS many other people maybe even the FA if you can reach them agree or post the route name on the site and see if other people agree. BUT if its only 15 feet to the first bolt thats just bouldering have someone spot you on the first moves. I'm sure I'll get some slack for my oppinon oh well.
|
|
|
|
|
theamish
Aug 22, 2002, 1:30 PM
Post #3 of 3
(1115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2002
Posts: 144
|
Keith, you will find that a lot of people on this site have a "follow blindly intellect" that presumes the FA was an intelligent, responsible professional that could never do anything incorrectly. That said (the guns will start now). If you are in an area where the climbing community agrees to add something to a climb and the FA is the only one opposed to it, you may have to define ethics for your community. Should the vast majority succumb to the ethics of one individual ? This is something your local community must decide. You won't get an answer to that question here, all you will get are a lot of opinions on a subject that has no answer. If you listen to the puritan rhetoric, nothing in climbing should ever evolve.
Now ..... getting off my soap box. Do what is correct in your area, if change is needed work with your local community to achieve this goal. FA's are not Gods, most were just climbers,like you and me, that worked with what they had at the time.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
