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blueeyedclimber
Apr 17, 2006, 6:01 PM
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I climbed at the Gunks yesterday and got in more climbing than I ever have there. A friend and I got in 10 pitches between 7 climbs. Now, combine that with the fact that we going back and forth all day and toproped the hell out of The Sting (11d), I would say that is pretty impressive. Not a record by any means, but my personal best so far.
MY list is as follows(including how many pitches of each we did):
City Lights (5.7, 1 pitch)
Drunkard's Delight (5.7, 2 pitches)
Ants Line (5.9, 1 pitch)
Lisa (5.9, 1 pitch)
The Sting (5.11d, 1 ptich, tr'ed several times)
Retribution (5.10, 1 pitch)
Overhanging Layback (5.7, 3 pitches...including getting lost on the second pitch, necessitating the need for the third pitch)
How many pitches have you done in a single day? Be sure to include if it was on one climb or several.
Josh
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estwing
Apr 17, 2006, 6:23 PM
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My record day was last august in squamish. A buddy and I climbed Rock On to Squamish Buttress to Joe's Dyke, for a total of 15 pitches (climbed as 11 because we linked). One of my best days out!
I have done 25 at the gym, but that doesn't count for much.
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caughtinside
Apr 17, 2006, 6:44 PM
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Hmm, hard to measure. I regularly get 10 pitches a day at Lover's Leap. I think I average around 8 in Joshua Tree. 8 is my normal target for a day out sport climbing.
I've also done Royal arches, 15 pitches (most pretty easy.)
Also did a good linkup in Tuolumne last year. Soloed Tenaya Peak in about 45 minutes, which is 15 pitches, w/1 5.5 move if you go by the book, then simuled Matthes Crest, which is about a mile long ridge traverse, with a few 5.7 moves sprinkled throughout. Doesn't really compare though...
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boadman
Apr 17, 2006, 7:24 PM
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I had a day at Squamish where we did cruel shoes into the grand wall, and finished it up on Negro Lesbian off of broadway. It was only 3:30, so we went and did Sunblest, and then a couple of the other pitches up there. I think the total for the day was 25 or so, every pitch over 10a.
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j_ung
Apr 17, 2006, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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I like to warm up pretty slowly for obvious reasons. But one of the not so obvious reasons is that I get to knock out several routes early and rack up the mileage. I think the most I've done is 13 pitches in 12 hours, but it included over eight miles of ground travel between many of them.
Hmmm... I oughtta write that up for a trip report. :idea:
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bandycoot
Apr 17, 2006, 7:47 PM
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Darkstar in the Sierras was long. That was "35-40 pitches" according to the guide. It's hard to say with the amount of simuling and soloing we did. Another big day was Resolution Arete which clocked in at about 20 pitches. That was a good day.
Josh
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kachoong
Apr 17, 2006, 7:48 PM
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Yes Jay, you'd better write that one up. I enjoy your stories.
I have had a few good days out there in the past. Probably the longest day (roped pitches) was on Angel's Crest on The Chief. I guess it was at least 14 or 15 pitches. The Grand Wall is a few less than that and did that in about 8 hours.
My best day of single pitch trad was at Booroomba quite a few years back. I think my partner and I did around 13 pitches (one of them was 3 pitches and one was 2 pitches) from 17-22 (I think that's 5.9 to 11b in 'merican speak).
On ice I did Polar Circus in 98, which is a long one. At least 500m roped up. Dunno how many piches it was, we just wanted to get outta the avalanche zone.... it took a good 10 hours car to car.
Ouray is a good place to get some meters in.
(edit: It's write, not right..... right?)
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dudemanbu
Apr 17, 2006, 7:50 PM
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Unfortunately i don't often get to climb an entire day, but I often set a pretty good pace. About two weeks ago I climbed 9 pitches in 3 hours.
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sspssp
Apr 17, 2006, 9:54 PM
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In reply to: Darkstar in the Sierras was long. That was "35-40 pitches" according to the guide. It's hard to say with the amount of simuling and soloing we did. Another big day was Resolution Arete which clocked in at about 20 pitches. That was a good day. Josh
The alpine pitches are hard to judge because you frequently get long stretches of low 5 class (or even fourth/third class).
The most pitches I've done in a day without any of the pitches being a "gimmie" would be Half Dome in a day (a little over 20).
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gblauer
Moderator
Apr 17, 2006, 10:36 PM
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18 pitches (El Potrero Chico, sport climbing)
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vinnie
Apr 17, 2006, 11:53 PM
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In a day I climbed the NE Ridge on Sharkstooth (6 pitches), downclimbed the East Gully route (4 pitches), hiked to the Spearhead and climbed the N Ridge (8 pitches). However, most of the climbing was very easy and the majority of the time was spent on the approach since the actual climbing only took about 2 hours. I also climbed the Needle in the Sandias(15 pitches) in 5 hours, but the majority of the route was simulclimbed. When cragging I can typically get in about 10 pitches in a day.
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vegastradguy
Apr 18, 2006, 12:08 AM
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Resolution Arete was my biggest day- i think we broke it out to 20 some odd pitches with several hundred feet of 4th class terrain not included in that.
Next closest was Solar Slab to the summit of Rainbow Mtn, which, after doing the Gully 1st, I think put us around 15-17 roped pitches.
Royal Arches and Epi were other big days.
My biggest day cragging I managed to climb maybe 10-12 short pitches out in Calico Basin....but i find it difficult to get alot of routes in at a crag. In jtree, i'm lucky if i get 6-8 routes in a day!
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gunksgoer
Apr 18, 2006, 12:15 AM
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Im guessing somewhere in the 10-12 pitch range. I totaled stuff up after one gunks outing and it was over 1000 feet but I cant remember many specifics. A 4 digit day is cool.
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angry
Apr 18, 2006, 12:23 AM
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I did 10 pitches at Turkey Rocks yesterday.
I have done 15 pitch routes before.
I bet you an average climber could do 30 in a day freesoloing. Reardon did like a million in a day once.
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jakedatc
Apr 18, 2006, 12:25 AM
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i've done 13 sport routes in a day twice at rumney and that really wasn't pushing it. a friend of mine were planning to do the summer solstice and see how many we could get on the longest day.. maybe this summer i'll find someone to give it a shot
i'll see how many i get at the gunks tomorrow ;)
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flamer
Apr 18, 2006, 12:41 AM
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Half dome IAD...23 pitch's or so.
Southern Arete of the Painted wall....does any body know how many pitch's it actually is? We belayed at least 18-20 and simuled at least 6.
I once linked Tunnel vision, Group Therapy, healy's haunted house, and Olive Oil in Red Rocks....not sure how many pitch's that is....let's call them 6 each(probably more)....that's 24 I guess, took about 8-10 hours.
Maybe in a couple of weeks I'll post something bigger, as I have a plan.....
josh
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jv
Apr 18, 2006, 12:56 AM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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With or without a rope? At Tahquitz in 1999 to get ready for Dark Star (rained out), I free soloed White Maiden Direct, East Lark, North Buttress/Uneventful combo, the Maiden Direct (again) and finally the Long Climb with the 5.8 start (but climbed around the spooky triangular block). I started about 8:30 and was done by about 4:00, including five descents of the north gully, lunch and a nap. About 35 "pitches" in all.
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cristodelaroca
Apr 18, 2006, 1:07 AM
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23 pitches , time wave zero in potrero chico,
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miavzero
Apr 18, 2006, 1:19 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2005
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I did over 50 laps on various boulder problems and solos at Josh yesterday. More than half of those were harder than 5.11 or V4. Look at me, I'm stroking it on an online forum! :D
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airbender
Apr 18, 2006, 2:54 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2005
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I've done 18 at josh. Got up to 12 down here in the deepsouth. Those were all 1 pitch gear routes. Once you get into a rythm and stay within your abilities I think most can do 10 + in a day. Oh yeah its all about your partner.
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thabadcharacter
Apr 18, 2006, 3:42 AM
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Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 52
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20 pitches of single pitch face and crack climbing in frenchman's coulee, WA. with climbs stacked next to each other it makes you feel like youre at disneyland with a huge choice of fun rides!
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