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asuclimber
May 9, 2006, 6:15 AM
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I am looking to get a new harness. I can prodeal BD, Misty Mountain, Petzl, or Metolius. I want the harness mainly for trad/multi-pitch, and possibly walls. I mainly do single pitch to long trad routes although I am planning on trying a wall or two this summer as well. I also set routes in the gym, so hanging for long periods of time is a consideration.
Right now I am leaning towards the misty mountain titan or something from the metolius safetech line. I was also considering the Misty Cadillac.
My main considerations are comfort, durability, and gear loop capacity.
I was for advice/suggestions as to what to get and what works well for people with similar needs.
Do you like Misty mountain, or metolius? Cadillac or titan?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
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weasel
May 9, 2006, 6:37 AM
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If you're willing to spend the extra money, go Yates. Unparalleled big wall gear. I borrowed my buddy's Shield and ordered one the next day.
Anyway, of the two you mentioned, if you're really going to be using it for aid, go with the big wall specific one(metolius). If you want to use it for other stuff too, go with Misty. Theirs seems to be more trad oriented.
Edit: if you have to choose between Misty and Metolius (but same basic harness) I'd suggest Misty. I like them, and their Cadillac looks super cush.
I will say I've heard great things about Misty harnesses. Metolius not as much, but their safe tech idea seems neat.
Really, I'm not sure if I helped, but good luck choosing!
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bill_in_tokyo
May 9, 2006, 7:49 AM
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I have a Cadillac. Good piece of gear in my opinion - burly and comfy.
I bought it specifically with an upcoming trip to Red Rocks in mind, having been warned about multiple semi-hanging belays on some of the long routes back in the canyons. Ended up being very happy I made the purchase.
That trip was spring of 2003, so mine is almost exactly three years old and still going strong - no ugly wear spots or other problems. That's despite being pretty well used, since Tokyo is climbable year-round.
I've also heard great things about Yates, but never actually seen an example make it over to the local gear shops for me to try.
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phugganut
May 9, 2006, 8:00 AM
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Misty Mountain harnesses are great. I have climbed in other nice harnesses, but IMHO Misty is the best. Hope that helps.
-Mike
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dr_feelgood
May 9, 2006, 8:44 AM
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Never tried the Misty, but I highly recommend the Safe-tech Deluxe. Big gear loops and super comfy...
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mattm
May 9, 2006, 5:18 PM
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In reply to: I am looking to get a new harness. I can prodeal BD, Misty Mountain, Petzl, or Metolius. I want the harness mainly for trad/multi-pitch, and possibly walls. I mainly do single pitch to long trad routes although I am planning on trying a wall or two this summer as well. I also set routes in the gym, so hanging for long periods of time is a consideration. Right now I am leaning towards the misty mountain titan or something from the metolius safetech line. I was also considering the Misty Cadillac. My main considerations are comfort, durability, and gear loop capacity. I was for advice/suggestions as to what to get and what works well for people with similar needs. Do you like Misty mountain, or metolius? Cadillac or titan? Thanks in advance, Paul
Go Misty - they're awesome. I've got a cadillac I use for pretty much everything and would get another in a second
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mattyj
May 9, 2006, 6:39 PM
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I have a Misty Cadillac and really like it - pretty comfy when hanging, not very bulky while climbing. However, the gear loops really drive me nuts. I haven't tried out the Titan, but it looks like they're in the same configuration.
I generally don't use a gear sling; I rack all the pro on my harness (+ shoes in the back) and slings over the shoulder. When I got the Cadillac, I couldn't wait to go climbing decked out with 6 big gear loops and all the organizational benefits they'd provide. Unfortunately, the loops are way back on the harness, and the rear loops are stacked directly on top of eachother. The bottom rear loops are only really useful for personal items you don't need mid-pitch - belay device, prussiks, etc - since pro on the top loop will cover up the bottom loop and make it hard to get at. Additionally, if you have much gear on the rear loops, you can wind up fumbling to find what you're looking for because they're so far back. Worst of all, though, is that you have to be really careful sitting down. If you don't mind the gear on the rear loops, it sits between you and the rock and carabiner gates can be bumped open - I almost lost a set of nuts this way when I first got the harness.
I still love the harness and I'd probably buy another one, but you if you can try it on before buying, load up the gear loops a bit and make sure they work for you.
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dingus
May 9, 2006, 6:40 PM
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I think harnesses like the Yates Bigger N a Big Wall harness are overkill. They shoulda stopped short of the kitchen sink!
I used Misty harnesses for years and loved them. But again, I feel those big wall oriented harnesses are overkill. They're just too big.
That safety tech thing... seems to play on fears (of harnesses somehow coming undone). The added bulk... just doesn't add up. There is no reason a safe and comfortable harness can't be designed that is also light and compact when stowed. In fact, there are probably a dozen or so harnesses on the market that will fit the bill... twice over, ie you can buy two normal trad oriented harnesses for one of those Big Ass Harnesses.
Cheers
DMT
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mountainmiss
May 9, 2006, 8:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2005
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Just some thoughts: one good comfortable harness is required for hanging for long periods of time in the gym to set routes and doing long mutli-pitch routes. Another harness should be considered for big walls, which require much more time hanging and because of the time consumption and patience needed for all the hauling and aid climbing, you owe it to yourself to invest in the best (comfort and fit) harness you can find for that particular type of climbing.
So IMO, you may want to consider getting two harnesses. But if you can only get one now, then either go with the best big wall harness you can find and live with the overkill of padding=weight while doing your long multi-pitch routes and route setting.. OR... get a harness that best suites the type of climbing you do more often and rent a good big wall harness to see first if you like big wall climbing and/or what type of big wall harness fits you best.
Harnesses are funny things, like shoes. You need to try them on and see what fits you well and feels good. I think the recommendations are a good start, but shouldn't be the only factor in making your decision.
Good luck.
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asuclimber
May 10, 2006, 8:20 AM
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Thanks to everyone for all the info. I was not considering metolius for the bs safety benefits(being able to belay off a gear loop and anchor off a haul loop), I was just thinking of comfort. I still plan on belaying from the belay loop, and using the haul loop for trailing rope. Sounds like Misty is the way to go. I don't think the Titan or Cadillac will be to much interference with the climbing I will do. I still have a sport/gym oriented harness which will work for anything which does not require large amounts of gear, or long periods of hanging.
Thanks,
Paul
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fredo
May 10, 2006, 1:17 PM
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Howdy.... I recently "upgraded" to the Misty Cadallac and so far I am happy with it. I would have to echo what others have mentioned about the rear two loops, they are a bit far back but I rekon it just takes some getting use to. THe other four loops are big enough for racking for multi pitch routes and the back two, as mentioned are nice for prussiks, lockers, long slings etc, it always seems that is what gets in my way, so I like having them on their own loops so they do not "clutter" the pro. I have yet to hang for a long period in it, but I imagine it is comfy. I still have my Petzel Calidris, and as far as fit, profile etc go, I think the two are similar. I think the Petzel harness is the most comfortable one I have ever owned. If the gear loops were bigger and there was a haul loop, I would never buy another type, but alas it is not to be. Hope that helps
foimt
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sausalito
May 10, 2006, 1:53 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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I would go with either a sonic or a cady from misty mountain. I have both but if I had to choose one I would go with the sonic.
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jimdavis
May 13, 2006, 12:46 AM
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In reply to: I am looking to get a new harness. I can prodeal BD, Misty Mountain, Petzl, or Metolius.
:arrow:Might wanna remove your personal info from your profile if you wanna keep your privilages then, cause they all read these boards, and don't like it when people spray about their "private and professional privilages".
But getting to your question, I found the SafeTech Delux to be more comfortable than the Misty Cadillac...and for most people it'd be a great harness for anything but 6 day nail-ups. Also, the Metolius gear will last a lot longer than Misty's. Just look at, and feel the tie-in points on each harness....look at how the gear loops are attached on the Misty, think about chimneying in each harness...which one is gonna give you more life for the $? Once I put on my hands on each harness, it was a no-brainer.....the Metolius is where it's at! The only shortcoming I see with it, are the rear gear loops are pretty small, and the waist buckle is a bitch to thread due to its shape. The adjustable rise on their harnesses, though, is something more manufactuers should offer.
Cheers,
Jim
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