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theirishman
May 15, 2006, 1:06 AM
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Im looking for a very comfortable all day trad shoe. I have anasazis but they hurt after 3-4hours to the point of my having to climb in bare feet on trad!!!!!!!! I need a good crack shoe that wont wear out soon and has great comfort, i look at the 5.10Pitons but i dont know about there comfort, i also looked into trad master, anything els?
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dudemanbu
May 15, 2006, 1:09 AM
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the tradmasters are what tommy caldwell used on most of the pitches to climb the nose and freerider back to back in a day.
I've been looking at the pitons myself because 5.10's tend to fit my foot better than sportivas. I'd appreciate any feedback on this matter.
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thegreytradster
May 15, 2006, 1:25 AM
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You might try Boreal Aces also. I think they are about the last of the board lasted shoes out there.
Wish I could get a new pair of Kalculators.
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tonloc
May 15, 2006, 1:27 AM
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pretty sure caldwell wore the miuras but i may be wrong...if you fit a shoe right, any shoe can work all day, i wear anasazi's all day now rarely taking them off because i fit them right and the shoes work for me...
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hosh
May 15, 2006, 1:36 AM
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I've had nothing but good feelings from my Evolve Bandits. I really appreciate the fit, they form to my foot well, and they perform. I know that there will be a lot of differing opinions on this, but that's my vote.
hosh.
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dudemanbu
May 15, 2006, 1:41 AM
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In reply to: pretty sure caldwell wore the miuras but i may be wrong....
you are wrong.
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tonloc
May 15, 2006, 1:48 AM
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got a pic or a site or something i haven't seen any pics of him wearing anything but miuras, just interested not meaning to be annoying...so ill hold off on being wrong for now
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dudemanbu
May 15, 2006, 2:52 PM
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In reply to: got a pic or a site or something i haven't seen any pics of him wearing anything but miuras, just interested not meaning to be annoying...so ill hold off on being wrong for now
You don't need to hold off on being wrong. You're wrong. :lol:
He wore tradmasters for the majority of the pitches on both of those climbs. Check the photo spreads from the rag's. It's pretty obvious he's not in miura's... and it's mentioned in one of the articles.
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krusher4
May 15, 2006, 3:11 PM
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Have you tried on those 5.10's there like wearing freaking hiking boots. Unless your a really strong climber I do not see you being able to break the 5.10 range with those babies.
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microbarn
May 15, 2006, 3:12 PM
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I have had mythos and now tradmasters.
I like the tradmasters. They are what they advertise. They are comfortable all day shoes. They make your feet sweat like you wouldn't believe though.
However, the tradmasters lack in the precision department. I expect I will not get them resoled in the future. I will probably go back to mythos. When sized appropriately, the mythos are comfortable, and the precision is not totally lost. I have not found the padding that is present in tradmasters to be of an advantage. Maybe aiders differ in opinion from me.
The tradmasters didn't stretch, but the mythos stretched a tremendous amount.
***The mythos are a different version now then when I owned them. I don't know if they changed anything other than the color of the shoe though.***
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domx
May 16, 2006, 6:56 PM
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i just got a pair of 5.10 coyote and i have tryed the muira, trad master, and many other. The straight design make it really comfy, quite stiff for crack yet sensitive to my standard and good c4 rubber for slabby moves
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caughtinside
May 16, 2006, 7:04 PM
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The real key is fit. You can climb all day in any shoe, so long as it's not sized too tight. I climb all day in katanas frequently.
I'll point out though, that I take my shoes off just about every pitch. More for sweating reasons than comfort.
Good luck.
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aimeerose
May 16, 2006, 7:06 PM
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The new Evolv Evo's are really nice and comfortable, although you may consider asking them to put a thicker sole on them if you're looking at an all day shoe.
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alpine_monk
May 16, 2006, 7:13 PM
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I swore by the trad master until I tried the Red Chillie tornado... great shoe, super comfie and suprisingly acurate toe!
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blouderk2
May 16, 2006, 7:15 PM
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Skip both of those shoes and get a pair of Evolve Bandits. My favorite trad shoe and they are comfy for all day and then some. End of story.
-Tom
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tradclmbr
May 17, 2006, 2:20 PM
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Would not get the tradmasters myself. I looked at them the other day, tried them on ....... if you want a sense of how they feel go put a couple of condoms on at the same time. Waaaay too stiff and insensitive for me. FYI I was looking at some mags last night while waiting for my wife at a bookstore - Caldwell wore Miuras on really technical pitches and the tradmasters for burly offwidth on Freerider.....so dudeman your WRONG. I bet they are a good offwidth shoe, but since offwidth is a neccesary evil for me rather than a sought after climbing style I wouldnt own these boards
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boulder_junky
May 30, 2006, 3:04 AM
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I am Probably severely under qualified to put in my two cents but I will anyways. Personally i really like the Evolve Kaos shoes that I own now. Sadly, I am the product of modern, gym climbing and have only been climbing outdoors once :( (although this will change soon). However, I can climb all day in them and I find that they are really comfortable, although this could be because (as others have mentioned) i sized them bigger than most may.
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tonloc
May 30, 2006, 3:45 AM
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In reply to: Would not get the tradmasters myself. I looked at them the other day, tried them on ....... if you want a sense of how they feel go put a couple of condoms on at the same time. Waaaay too stiff and insensitive for me. FYI I was looking at some mags last night while waiting for my wife at a bookstore - Caldwell wore Miuras on really technical pitches and the tradmasters for burly offwidth on Freerider.....so dudeman your WRONG. I bet they are a good offwidth shoe, but since offwidth is a neccesary evil for me rather than a sought after climbing style I wouldnt own these boards
Thank you Tradclmbr for restoring my faith in myself and the community of RC.com
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dudemanbu
May 30, 2006, 5:02 AM
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In reply to: Would not get the tradmasters myself. I looked at them the other day, tried them on ....... if you want a sense of how they feel go put a couple of condoms on at the same time. Waaaay too stiff and insensitive for me. FYI I was looking at some mags last night while waiting for my wife at a bookstore - Caldwell wore Miuras on really technical pitches and the tradmasters for burly offwidth on Freerider.....so dudeman your WRONG. I bet they are a good offwidth shoe, but since offwidth is a neccesary evil for me rather than a sought after climbing style I wouldnt own these boards
No i'm not. You'll see when the new dosage comes out. He wears them on the vast majority of the pitches, and only puts the miuras on for the hardest pitches (think over 5.12) Not to mention you can see him clearly wearing the tradmasters in most of the shots in alpinist 15.
I realize i may have come off as a jerk earlier, but that wasn't my intention. I was just trying to get across what a great shoe the tradmasters are for all day (and night) trad.
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freeledgeledgy
May 30, 2006, 5:10 AM
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mythos or evolv quest
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rallen
May 30, 2006, 7:14 AM
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The Boreal Ace is a very comfortable shoe. It is board lasted, so besides being very comfy, it is also ideal for jamming into cracks. Overall it is good except for very little sensitivity.
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climbinginchico
May 30, 2006, 7:24 AM
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In reply to: I've had nothing but good feelings from my Evolve Bandits. I really appreciate the fit, they form to my foot well, and they perform. I know that there will be a lot of differing opinions on this, but that's my vote. hosh.
What he said. Basically the only shoes I wear anymore.
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climbinginchico
May 30, 2006, 7:27 AM
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In reply to: I've had nothing but good feelings from my Evolve Bandits. I really appreciate the fit, they form to my foot well, and they perform. I know that there will be a lot of differing opinions on this, but that's my vote. hosh.
What he said. Basically the only shoes I wear anymore.
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slimper
Jun 3, 2006, 7:30 PM
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For day long routes, my vote goes to the Mythos. They're made of leather thats from the belly of the cow. This leather is higher in fat which makes is softer. So the shoe can stretch to conform to the shape of your foot. However, because of the soft leather these shoes do stretch a full size. So buy small.
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