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fishwater
May 28, 2006, 5:28 AM
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What is a good device for solo top roping?
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sick_climba
May 28, 2006, 6:21 AM
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gri gri or cinch
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curt
May 28, 2006, 7:05 AM
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I'm willing to bet that reading through any of the absolutely identical threads listed below will be somewhat useful.
Curt
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ninja_climber
May 28, 2006, 7:28 AM
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Gri-Gri
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hummerchine
May 28, 2006, 8:13 AM
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I'm sure this has been posted before, but the Petzl Mini-Traxion is the best solo-toproping device made. On a slightly weighted rope it feeds by itself, unlike the Gri-Gri or Cinch. Plus, the manufacturer actually recommends using the Mini-Traxion for this purpose, unlike the Gri-Gri or Cinch. Personally, I use two, one on my belay loop, one on a half runner girth-hitched to my harness. To be even more bomber, consider a Stratos, Super-Safe, or any 10mm or larger rope. Petzl has info on the use that comes with the device. Hope this helps, have fun!
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far_east_climber
May 28, 2006, 11:01 AM
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I agree that the Mini-Traxion is the most suited to the job (mechanically wise) - however, when it comes to function... I think the Gri Gri is king. If you don't have a Gri Gri, I would get this as your first device... if you do and you want to try something different, then the Mini-Traxion is the way.
The reason I say Gri Gri is that it's the quickest and most versatile. Climb up, reach the top and just rap back down and do it all over again... no changing on to your rap device needed. The act of taking in slack (on free) with the Gri Gri is also a lot like pulling up slack on lead, so it can keep you in shape in that area...
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thetroutscout
May 28, 2006, 11:15 AM
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Or you could be smart and go with a device that is actually rated for the purpose. Petzl Basic or Regular Ascender. Keep no slack in the system is the key and use a chest harness. Read up about it before you try it. For some reason Petzl keeps saying not to use the Gri Gri for self belay. Who are you going to believe, people on the net or Petzl??
^^ike
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maimed
May 28, 2006, 1:15 PM
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Yates Rocker
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ninja_climber
May 28, 2006, 1:56 PM
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In reply to: Or you could be smart and go with a device that is actually rated for the purpose. Petzl Basic or Regular Ascender. Keep no slack in the system is the key and use a chest harness. Read up about it before you try it. For some reason Petzl keeps saying not to use the Gri Gri for self belay. Who are you going to believe, people on the net or Petzl?? ^^ike
or how about people who have actually used it?
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jrzacher
May 28, 2006, 3:13 PM
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So with the gri gri do you have to do the modification, making a ring on the top of it so that you can use a chest harness/gear sling to orient it vertically so that the rope will slide better? Does the gri gri method auto feed once there is weight at the end of the rope?
Thanks,
Jesse
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hummerchine
May 28, 2006, 5:38 PM
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I forgot to mention, a DMM Balaymaster carabiner works particularly well with the Mini-Traxion. I see some recommending a Gri-Gri, which does have the advantage of making it easy to rap down if doing laps. BUT, it has two horrible flaws. You have to hand feed the rope, which is not only a massive pain but incorporates way too much slack into the system. AND, there are just too many horror stories out there about these devices slipping when there is no brake hand for my taste. There are also other ways to solo toprope with a chest harness, personally I wanted to avoid that.
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madclimbr13
May 28, 2006, 5:47 PM
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i don't know who makes it but there is a device called a silent partner that does not require you to pull through the slack as you go up the climb, it freely runs along the set line until you fall
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meesier42
May 28, 2006, 11:21 PM
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I use the GriGri , works great, no modifications required. I read somewhere that the guy who first thought of the modification now recommends not doing it.
I just wieght the rope (pack or something) then climb away, having to stop and feed rope every so often is just more practice for lead.
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chossmonkey
May 29, 2006, 2:24 AM
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Handless Ushba ascender.
Gri-Gris suck ass for top rope belay.
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chossmonkey
May 29, 2006, 2:25 AM
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Oops :oops:
In reply to: Sorry, but you may not delete posts that have been replied to. |
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gunkiemike
May 29, 2006, 2:40 AM
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"Works great" and "pull the rope through regularly" do NOT belong in the same sentence. If it doesn't slide easily up the rope, it has no use as a self belay TR device IMO. So using Grigri = penalty slack.
The (edit: Mini) Traxion hangs down and is pulled up the rope below you (albeit a small distance below), so there is always slack in the rope. Therefore also less than optimum.
Get an ascender that is recommended by the manufacturer for this purpose.
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hummerchine
May 29, 2006, 4:12 AM
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I got a real kick out of the comment: "Works great: and "pull the rope through regularly" do not belong in the same sentence. I tend to agree, but then the author complains about the Pro hanging down with slack? For starters, we have been discussing the Mini (not the Pro), which IS a type of ascender recommended by the for this purpose. The slack mentioned is not only a minor amount, but desirable. You need a small amount of slack to reposition for many free moves. We're talking a few inches here, no big deal. I feel this IS optimum. Any less and you will not be free climbing, you'll be aid climbing. As always, just my opinion, hope this helps!
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sixleggedinsect
May 29, 2006, 4:14 AM
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In reply to: I'm sure this has been posted before, but the Petzl Mini-Traxion is the best solo-toproping device made. On a slightly weighted rope it feeds by itself, unlike the Gri-Gri or Cinch. Plus, the manufacturer actually recommends using the Mini-Traxion for this purpose, unlike the Gri-Gri or Cinch.
i've done countless solo TR pitches with the cinch. hummer, have you used one for this? the rope path on the cinch is pretty darn straight and i find it self-feeds really well. generally, i dont even bother hanging weight off the rope because as soon as i am 20' off the ground the weight of that rope is enoguh for it to self-feed. in my limited experience with petzl/traxion devices that are specifically cited as self-belay devices, they feed negligably better.
i prefer it to a mini traxion or toothed ascender for two reasons. first, it is easier on the rope. i can bounce around and fall off and the rope does not get caught by sharp teeth cammed into the sheath. that whole 'don't let slack build up in the system' doesn't apply with the cinch (assuming normal safety precautions). second, and much more importantly, you have a built in lowering mechanism. if i want to repeat a section, or rap and re-climb, i just sit back on the rope and go for it. no messing around to hook up a rap device. no feeding the device back down the rope. just smooth sailing.
personally, i think the cinch is the friggin' bee's knees. it does everything well. its so smooth it almost feels like a pulley. i love it for jugging, hauling, top roping, bringing up seconds who hang a lot, 3:1s, solo TRing, etc.
the one thing i dont use it for is belaying lead climbers, so i woudln't know whether sportos will dig it.
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jsrj98
May 29, 2006, 5:26 AM
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You would do well to follow Curt's advice and read as many of the similar threads on this board as you can before undertaking a solo top rope. By definition you are alone, with likely no one else around to help you if you screw up. Do your research first. There are many devices that will help you solo top rope. More importantly, however, are the techniques to do it safely. That's where scouring this board for information will really help you.
Follow this link for a good overview of all the available devices:
http://www.thebikezone.org.uk/therockzone/selfbelay.html
Personally, I use a Wren Soloist. It is more expensive than the other devices mentioned in this thread, and does require a chest harness; but it was designed specifically for solo climbing, while all the others were not. It won't hurt your rope, feeds the rope through very smoothly, and because it sits above your harness, catches you instantly if you slip.
Whatever device you choose, tie a backup knot !
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thetroutscout
May 29, 2006, 6:22 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Or you could be smart and go with a device that is actually rated for the purpose. Petzl Basic or Regular Ascender. Keep no slack in the system is the key and use a chest harness. Read up about it before you try it. For some reason Petzl keeps saying not to use the Gri Gri for self belay. Who are you going to believe, people on the net or Petzl?? ^^ike or how about people who have actually used it?
Yeah, I really trust them... There is a reason Petzl says not to use it for solo TR. I trust Petzl, who tests their gear, not "some people."
Studies have found that you are much less likely to die in a car accident when you wear your seat belt. Some people don't wear their's but are still alive. Who would you believe?
Have these people don't extensive tests with the Gri Gri? Or have they just been ok so far? Why chance it? If you are an experienced climber that is familiar with the Gri Gri it may be a fine option for you. I don't think someone that is just getting into top rope soloing should be using a Gri Gri.
^^ike
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rad_dog
May 29, 2006, 1:22 PM
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I've had good sucess using the Petzl Croll (handle-less ascender) in combination with a chest harness. The only drawback is if you fall off a roof or overhang it's tricky to rig a rappel or get back on the rock. It's also hard to lower back out and re-try moves you have already done. Long traverses would also be tricky. Other than that it feeds automatically and locks off nicely. Petzl does recommend it for this use. If you have a regular ascender already you can use that instead of the Croll, it will just be bigger and more likely to get in the way, but you still need a chest harness to keep it upright.
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chossmonkey
May 29, 2006, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: "Works great" and "pull the rope through regularly" do NOT belong in the same sentence. If it doesn't slide easily up the rope, it has no use as a self belay TR device IMO. So using Grigri = penalty slack.
:righton:
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hummerchine
May 29, 2006, 6:25 PM
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I have not used the Cinch, although I can see all of the reasons that you like it. However, the dire warnings against using it for this purpose posted on the Trango web site scare me off! Here is the link: http://www.trango.com/pdfs/CinchFAQ.pdf
I still think two Mini-Traxions on the same rope, weighted at the bottom, is absolutely bombproof. There is just no way two devices like this will simultaneously fail. With the rope weighted no slack ever builds up, bring along some runners and you can quickly rig for ascending/descending the rope. True, not nearly as slick as a Cinch for descending to retrie a section, but personally I would not feel comfortable trusting this one device only. You could always back up the Cinch with a Mini-Traxion on a half-runner girth-hitched you your harness like I rig one of mine. This just may give the best of all worlds...
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