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koooooooz
Jul 6, 2006, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2006
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how do i convert compitition style points to the v scale i mean at my gym there are points on the problems and they are liek from 20 to 1200 and i wanty to no what levle i am climbing at so i can convert what i am doing in the gym to the v scale
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sidepull
Jul 6, 2006, 10:14 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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it's simple reverse algebra: just put the letter v4 the number, see! now, off you go - find a v240 outside, take pics, post, and report. remember, always post and report, just like rinse and repeat.
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dingus
Jul 6, 2006, 10:26 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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E=mc(c)
DMT
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rainontin
Jul 7, 2006, 12:31 AM
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Whatever you do, don't listen to these jokers, all they want is a good laugh at your expense. Grades are an important part of climbing, and it is only natural that you should like to know how your comp-style grades compare to the V scale.
There is an easy way to convert comp points to V grades, all you will need is a paper, pencil, and maybe a calculator (depending on your math skills). We will start with this equation: V=[T/n*H(h-f)]/t^v. Now, to start off, take the number of tries it took you to climb the problem and let that number be T. Let little n be the number of moves on the problem, only counting hand movements, matching not included. This is where it gets a bit tricky; big H is the estimated (or exact, if your that kind of fellow) surface area of the holds. Make sure to keep the foot and hand holds seperate, as they are little h and little f respectively. Little t stands for tallness of problem, so you will need to know how high the wall is. Little v is the volume of water the holds would contain if you filled them up.
Now, pay attention: Take the number of tries, T, and divide them by the number of moves, n, times the total surface area H, which is multiplied by hand holds minus foot holds. Now, take that number and divide it all by the height of the problem, t, raised to the volume of water the holds can hold, if full of water, v.
Just put a capital V in front of that number and presto! You have your standard V grade. Hope this helps!
EDIT: Ooops, I almost forgot, once you put the V in front of your number, you have to divide it by A, which is the angle of the wall the problem was on. This gives you your half-V-grade, which you then multiply by two to get your full V grade. There! That's it! Climb on and keep enjoying the competitive spirit that makes this sport what it is!
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sidepull
Jul 7, 2006, 12:56 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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rain is actually correct, my method was for quicker estimation in the field, of course, that's what a climbing journal is for, to write down all of these numbers so that you can calculate the true grade on your couch.
sharpen that pencil!
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helios
Jul 7, 2006, 1:26 AM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2005
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Ok. And what are the units for H, t and v?
I already know this, of course. But for those who might be new here 8^)
And you might want to get a calculator that has a carabiner on it. Very handy.
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