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blueeyedclimber
Jul 8, 2006, 3:38 AM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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My wife and I are headed there next week and want to make the most of are time out there. Could we have some suggestions for must do routes both sport and trad. I have no idea how grades there compare but to give you an idea what we are looking for our ticklists for the Gunks (trad) and Rumney (sport) go something like this:
Rumney, myself, up to 5.12b/c....wonderwoman, up to 5.11c/d
Gunks, myself, up to 5.10-...wonderwoman, up to 5.7+
We are staying at Klahanie campground, but are renting a car, so distance is not too much of a concern.
Any help you can give would be great.
Thanks, Josh
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boo
Jul 8, 2006, 12:31 PM
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Registered: Oct 20, 2004
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Post up folks...another squamish visitor arriving in August. Need recommendations on routes, and quality local food.
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wonderwoman
Jul 8, 2006, 3:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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bump... even though I know every climber in her right mind is out climbing right now!
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norsky
Jul 8, 2006, 4:37 PM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2006
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Well...I'm at home with kids. so I ain't climbing today!
For the primo sport and some mixed, you MUST check out Petrifying Wall at the Murrin Lake pull out just before you reach the town of Squamish. Super cool 30 to 40 meter routes up featured granite mostly 5.11 and up.
Otherwise, there's just so much it's ridiculous to post here. Get the guide.
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blueeyedclimber
Jul 9, 2006, 5:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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In reply to: Well...I'm at home with kids. so I ain't climbing today! For the primo sport and some mixed, you MUST check out Petrifying Wall at the Murrin Lake pull out just before you reach the town of Squamish. Super cool 30 to 40 meter routes up featured granite mostly 5.11 and up. Otherwise, there's just so much it's ridiculous to post here. Get the guide.
We have The Climber's Guide to Squamish and Squamish select...I was just hoping to narrow some of our choices down.
How about recommendations to eat?
Anyone? Anyone?....
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mtnkid85
Jul 9, 2006, 7:10 PM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2005
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Ill be up there in late August. So lets hear it folks!
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tanner
Jul 9, 2006, 7:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2002
Posts: 491
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I'm injured, so here are some enjoyable routes I wish I was climbing.
Grand wall area (to many to list all good climbs)
The Grand wall 11a (the classic) ***1/2 12P
Exasperator 10c*** 2p
Back side- solarium (some others availabe)
Sun blessed 10b ***1/2 4p
North gully
Angels crest ***10b 12p
The Squaw (other great climbs in this area)
The great Game ***10d 4p
Also Ultimate Everything or Squamish buttress via Rock on
Cragging
Murrin park
Pet wall (hard sport 11and up go there and open guidebook
milk mans wall murrin
Worlds toughest milk man ***.8 (really fun)
Horrors of Ivan ***1/2 11c
Nightmare rock some good hard gear climbs
Smoke bluffs
5.8-10a 4p smoke bluff connection (smoke bluff wall)
10ish -talking holds, triage arete, super value and turbocharger11b (bouldergully wall) "first crag you see from the parking lot"
10-11a Neat and cool wall
neat and cool 10a,Geritol10c, kangaroo corner 11a(I really like this one)
Penny lane 5.9-11c
yorkshie gripper 11b, crime of the century 11c, penny lane5.9, climb and punishment 10d, partners in crime 11a
Split Beaver @ Split beaver wall
**10b OW also two good .9's
Octopus' Garden Lots of maderate crack climbs .7-9
Blind Channel-The zip***10a finger and hand crack
Chrystal Wall
Evaporation***11a 2p second pitch is bolted #7
For more sport climbing drive north 1/2 hour to Chekamus (totaly diffrent rock and experiance)
There are too many good climbs to list (I don't climb 12's so I didn't list any)
Have fun
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phillygoat
Jul 9, 2006, 8:24 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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I thought Rock On (10a, 4/5pitch, gear) was a lot of fun! And second the Smoke Bluffs for sheer mileage and convenience. There is so much to do it's a bit overwhelming, but in a good way! Hope you have a blast. I can't wait to go back!
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wonderwoman
Jul 10, 2006, 4:14 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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Thanks for these recommendations! Please keep them coming as well as any info on good food, things to do on rest days, etc.
Thanks!
Tiff
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norsky
Jul 11, 2006, 10:04 PM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2006
Posts: 9
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Bungee off the Capilano Suspension Bridge.
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lizard0fthetrail
Jul 11, 2006, 10:27 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2004
Posts: 133
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Eat at the howe sound inn and brewpub, take your time to hike around and enjoy the amazing scenery, climb Snake 5.9 on the pappoose if you want a short 4p mod.
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jred
Jul 11, 2006, 10:57 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2003
Posts: 750
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For harder sport I will have to agree with the Petrifying Wall suggestion, Even Steven 10c is also on this wall and is an amazing seldom traveled gear route. You may also want to try Chek for easily reached sport with grades from 5.9-5.14+, Chek is best avoided on weekends though.
Rock On, St.Vitus Dance, Diedre, Squamish Buttress and the Ultimate Everything are some deservedly popular moderate multi-pitches.
If you are looking to escape the crowds you may want to try the Bullet heads, the Papoose or some of the routes on the Squaw.
If you are looking for a bit of adventure and some trickier gear climbing mixed with a bit of sport then you may want to check out the Suicide Bluffs in Pemberton. Tyrolean access across a raging river leads to secluded climbing in shady old growth forest. The climbs at Suicide Bluffs should not be taken lightly and consist of mainly gear protected face cracks. This is my favorite area, but I am a tad biased as most of the routes were bolted/scrubbed by friends and myself. Check out Dr.top for info go to BC click on Suicide bluffs. PM me for more details if you are interested in more secluded areas.
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estwing
Jul 11, 2006, 11:42 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 344
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Look at the climbs of quality pages at the front of the Mclean guide, pick a grade that suits you and send it! I really enjoyed climbs on the apron, fun and relatively quick to do.
Rock on, squamish buttress, joe's dyke make for a great 15 pitch linkup.
diedre is great if you can beat the crowds, banana peel is quite easy and lots of fun to.
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crackmd
Jul 12, 2006, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
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I thought Freeway (11c) was on par with the classic multipitch Valley routes (Astroman, Rostrum, Good Book). Long, sustained, hard pitches and an amazing roof/traverse experience make it one of my top 5 of all time. I thought it blew doors on The Grand Wall (although that's a great route as well). Don't miss it!
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peas
Jul 12, 2006, 1:05 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
Posts: 400
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A couple that I don't think have been mentioned yet:
Bulletheads:
Slot Machine, 2p. of 5.8
Apron:
Vector, offwidth at 5.8/5.9
- if you do anything off of Baseline Ledge, it's worthwhile doing St. Vitus Direct (10a) rather than the bush pitches.
- if you top out on a route on the north side of the Apron, it's worthwhile to do Karen's Math (10a) and Memorial Crack (5.9)
Cheakamus Canyon:
Star Chek, sport climbing to 5.9 above a raging river
Grand Wall:
Seasoned In the Sun, 10a/b
Merci Me, run out 5.8 dyke climbing gets you to the base of the Grand Wall
Papoose:
- I've heard that Centrefold (10b) is pretty good, but haven't climbed it myself.
North Walls:
- Blazing Saddles (10b) is supposed to be great, but I also haven't climbed that one.
Upper Malamute:
- there are a number of nice climbs at Starr Wall
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jefffski
Jul 12, 2006, 8:14 AM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 286
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re suicide bluffs
i heard that the tyrolean is down. is this true?
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