I think that anyone who really thinks it isn't an important issue has lost all perspective on climbing.

In what sense do you mean "joke?" It is clear what the pic is: a guy who needs a haircut rap bolting a splitter hand crack.

I didn't say that there were no ethics associated with bolting; I said that "there is nothing inherently wrong with placing a bolt next to a crack in a rock."

Jay

Anyone who thinks this isn't an important issue has lost all perspective on climbing.

Some climbs are better protected by nuts then cams, but it depends on the climb.

You sound like a total n00b, BTW

Yeah, I was talking about climbsomething. The fact that you couldn't figure that out makes me wonder if it's safe for you to be climbing at all.

Still no answers after all this time? Oh well, I think it's time to put this thread to rest.

I agree, but this isn't the route to learn it on. Jack, who bolted the line, describes the placements as "A4." The route can't be safely or sanely led on gear.

An experienced climber wouldn't attempt it,

but many n00bs wouldn't know any better, and left "natural" it is virtually certain that a serious accident would eventually occur.

I think you meant "Than". "Then" is not a conjunction. And machine nuts are NEVER better pro than cams, or "Stoppers" perhaps you should read my question, and then some climbing history so you can understand the context of the question.

I know of a couple climbs where stoppers are clearly better protection than cams. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

What questions were you seeking answers to? Sorry about the delay in my responses. I haven't been online all week.

The fact that I couldn't figure out what you were saying makes me wonder if you should be composing sentences at all. I'm not understanding how my inability to decrypt your pathetic drivel is somehow related to my ability to safely climb... ?

Iceman, that (your comment about cams always being better than nuts) is debatable at best and flat out wrong at worst. Maybe a personal preference, but I know of a couple climbs where stoppers are clearly better protection than cams. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

I mainly wanted answers from Jay, but I also want you to point out who all of the "bolt haters" are in this thread. I made it pretty damn obvious.

About your poor reading comprehension: Look back at page 14 at the original comment in question. Still with me? Notice how it says "edited to respond". You doing okay? Now look directly above my post at climbsomething's post, which was posted exactly one minute before mine. Read it. Take it slow if your brain starts hurting. Does my response make sense given the context? I added the little "up arrow" for those who aren't so good with words and stuff.

I don't think it takes a detective to figure out that "pathetic drivel", but I agree that it may be difficult for the mentally handicapped. Now, if you can't figure out simple things like that, then I wonder how you can be trusted to ensure your own safety or the safety of others while climbing. It is making more sense to me now why you want cracks to be bolted...to simplify things for other "challenged" people like yourself.

Iceman, have you ever even given consideration to the possibility that you might be the one who isn't getting it?

Now, if you have anything intelligent to add to your position of bolting cracks... please post away. Otherwise, continue adding to your status as a noob and idiot in denial.

As far as importance goes, I'd place bolting near a crack just above the designated hitter rule in baseball and just below the preservation of the endangered Zayante Band-winged Grasshopper.

Jay

Your posts are all over the place, I'm just supposed to know that you were talking to Jay, when in the same paragraph you had just specifically directed your commentary toward me, then with no warning you change the subject and apparently, your target for questioning all at once... WTF? Oh well, that's not the first time you did that. I guess I'll just assume the next time you direct your commentary directly toward me, that you must mean someone else... That seems to be the status quo.



Your little "up arrow" is supposed to clarify everything? Perhaps an asterisk (That's the little * symbol to you) would have made more sense, it was anybody's guess what your little ^ was for, but yes, now that it's in context (several pages later), it makes sense.


Perhaps, or maybe you should provide us with a decryption key since you refuse to use traditional methods of conveying your meaning. I.e. the proper use of conjunctions, adjectives, clauses, etc.
Well I'm certainly not picking up what you're putting down, maybe it is just me.
[random emphasis added]


I daresay any opinion that differs from your own will not be regarded by you as intelligent, and will only serve to further your opinion of me as a "Noob and idiot in denial" And I just can't have that, there's no telling what that could do to my self image...

Bolting cracks is for cowardly scum.

Thank you. Your post could not be more timely, as I have proposed the name "Home of the Brave" for the bolted crack route.

Jay

Heh. Well, it's certainly appropriate for the belayer.

Now go bolt me a finger crack so we can call it Illegal Aliens.

Like, the dimples scare me, and remember, I also practically qualify for low-income housing. So I'd really appreciate it. Tks!

Think we could get a new crop of righteous blowhards puffin' up a storm if we told them about how you "stabilized" the new route at the Morning Wall?

Damn straight we've been spoiled on good rock. We live in Flagstaff. Come visit us, we'll return the favor by hooking you up with some good limestone.

Now Hilary.... I told you, that was sap that dripped off the pine tree at the top of the crag. It just happened to drip on that loose hold. HAHA!!!1

You know it's easy to troll washed up tradies that are stuck in the 90's, still climbing on good rock about what goes on at the newer choss piles. They have never even seen or climbed on choss and have no idea. What would really impress me, and I'd like to see is... a couple of you anglers, troll the wash up tradies about what goes on in their areas, their precious splitters and good rock. There is plenty of good material there and most of those guy's don't even know what has gone on in their own areas by their own heros. It might take a little more work than just posting a staged picture of me "bolting a splitter crack" but it would be worth it.