|
heiko
Aug 23, 2006, 1:32 PM
Post #76 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 1505
|
In reply to: jrkroeze, before I tell you how to do this, I need some information, for you saftey: How long have you been climbing? What types of climbing have you done? What is your max grade, and what grade do you propose to climb? how much experiance do you have in setting up anchors? how experianced are you in self rescue techniques (hanging in space)? Do you propose to TR solo or lead solo with this device? Sorry but this is to ensure that you are not a beginer who may end up injurying or killing themselve. -Magnus
come on magnus, he could lie to you easily so what the heck. spit it out ;)
|
|
|
|
|
ontherocks
Aug 23, 2006, 1:40 PM
Post #77 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 155
|
In reply to: Oh hey speaking of which anyone use the pro-traxion for self-belay on TR or otherwise?
I wouldn't use a device with teeth to catch a fall.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 23, 2006, 4:51 PM
Post #78 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
In reply to: In reply to: Oh hey speaking of which anyone use the pro-traxion for self-belay on TR or otherwise? I wouldn't use a device with teeth to catch a fall.
Anyways, back to the REAL discussion. Judging by your post, Sir Heiko, you seem a wee bit interested too.
But I STRONGLY, AND I MEAN STRONGLY (as in I hold no responsibility) reccomend that you DO NOT USE THIS DEVICE IN THIS SETUP unless you have the following experiance!
*EXTENSIVE knowladge in the seting up of multi direction anchors,
taking into account multiple anchors, and optimum angles blah blah such
forth. (and you should know what "such forth" intitles.)
*EXTENSIVE knowladge in ropework and safty work with biners (IE.
no crosslonding, metal on metal, nylon on nylon)
*EXTENSIVE experiance in self rescue, ascending, escaping the
system (in this case a locked grigri)
*and lastly, you must be a good enough climber to actually make use of this!
And this is only for tr soloing! If you are having to ask about solo leading then you probobly shouldn't be doing it, It also happens to be about 500 times more difficult and dangerous than tr soling.
Colors to stop [brown]you [/brown]getting bored[indigo]![/indigo]
So here it is, what you have been wating for. (well, in the next post)
|
|
|
|
|
teddyp324
Aug 23, 2006, 5:10 PM
Post #79 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2006
Posts: 62
|
Seems like it would be MUCH easier, and more fun to go and find a climbing partner... Climbing with someone else is probably better than climbing with a 1/2 assed solo device, but maybe that's just me.
-Ted
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 23, 2006, 5:37 PM
Post #80 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Look at your gri gri, on the side with the handle.
This is what you should see.
You see the words "only for rope" at the bottem left?
Look at the "ONLY". Drill (perfeably a set/clamp drill, you know what i mean) a 5/32" hole throught the "V" of the "N".
This can be done with the device closed, so that it goes straight through, or whilst it is open, so it does not go through the second plate.
If it is drill whilst open, another hole must be drilled in the middle of the plastic section, at right angles, and through, the first hole. The idea here is that it allows the cordette to be left in place and the gri gri can still be opened and put on the rope. Personally, i think that the "straight through" way is better, it holds the grigri more square, and doesn't pull it to the side or put strain on the plastic.
once this is done, simply put some cordette through the hole, and tie into a loop.
once this is done, clip the gri gri onto your harness, but backward from how you usually would, so when the cordette is pulled on, the gri gri lies across your abdomen with the working parts facing outwards.
then don your chest harness/sling/belt/whatever, and clip the cordette to the chest harness. it should be tight enough that the gri gri sits straight up and down. If it is too loose you will have to either:
1) tighten the loop of cordette going through the hole.
or
2) In sted of clipping into your belay point, get some tubular webbing, and tie a new belay loop, with the webbing doubled up (remember saftey), which is smaller than your usual belay loop, this will hold it more "snug" to put it as the OPer said.
Colors to stop [brown]you [/brown]getting bored[indigo]![/indigo]
If you plan to lead with this (which as I said you shouldn't unless you have MASSIVE experiance at leading normally, and have superior ropework and self rescue skills) then you will have to make another modification to allow the device to feed cleanly.
The involve cutting off the tab next to the handle, but on the plate not connected to the handle.
shown here just between the circular hinge on the silver metal of the hande and the wee picture of a climber(also on the silver metal).
Now, you might think it would be a great idea just to lop this baby off, which is exactly what people did. but then came the stories of great soloist gone dead, because the rope got caught underneath the relitivly sharp handle (pull the action all the way foreward, and you will notice the silver metal makes a rounded blunt blade) cutting the rope just enough for the loss in integrity to be enough to cause the rope to fail.
So, now the handle is not cut off completely, but a notch cut into it.
To do this simply use a large drill bit (11mm) (again, clamp the grigri in place) and drill a hole in the tab, without lowering the level of the tab on the handle side but still allowing your rope to slide though easily, from straight down, when it is attatched to your harness. If it cannot feed easily, you will get massive rope drag while climbing, and i mean MASSIVE!
I hope I have helped, if i have been to vague on anything, and by too vague i mean not totally perfect (this is dangerous stuff) then please post up. If you have any particular questions PM me or post up here.
Thanks and sent hard and safely!
-Magnus
Also, please remember to wear a helmet and tie a butterfly/whatever after a little while to stop you decking out (remember rope stretch), as this device will not lock up in the case of an inverteded fall!
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 23, 2006, 6:43 PM
Post #81 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Oh yeah, and use a DMM Belay Master, preferably ith a DMM Steel Screwgate.
send hard!
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
codhands
Aug 23, 2006, 8:27 PM
Post #82 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 499
|
In reply to: Seems like it would be MUCH easier, and more fun to go and find a climbing partner... Climbing with someone else is probably better than climbing with a 1/2 assed solo device, but maybe that's just me. -Ted
Yeah I agree but I guess you'd have to be in my shoes to know how hard I've looked for a partner. I usually go alone during my hour lunch and it's hard to coordinate with other people. And I assure you it's a "WHOLE-ASSED solo device.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 23, 2006, 8:38 PM
Post #83 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Ahhhhh! magnus is a nOOb! and an idiot! he is wrong!
DO NOT try to use an 11mm drill bit to alter the bit of metal next to the handle, unless I am mistaken this is TOO BIG, and will not work.
other than that good luck and send hard.
-Magnus
And codhands, you never answered, should i bother with a chest harness?
|
|
|
|
|
hroldan
Aug 23, 2006, 9:49 PM
Post #84 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 7, 2002
Posts: 330
|
When someone want's to do something, it is likely he will carry on (it seems)...
Solo climbing is a whole dif world. I've been there, tried several things, even the garda knot (don't recall if is gharda or garda) after several years climbing...
There is nothing like a good climbing partner.
Don't take it bad, it is just that by the post, some can tell that you need to keep climbing a lot more. Climbing is fun just because, but the most fun part is reaching the next level, be it if you climb 5.9 or 5.12 and walking on "your limits" can only be achieved with a partner... (I don't think solo rope climbing counts... or worse.. leading)
|
|
|
|
|
codhands
Aug 23, 2006, 11:08 PM
Post #85 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 499
|
In reply to: Ahhhhh! magnus is a nOOb! and an idiot! he is wrong! DO NOT try to use an 11mm drill bit to alter the bit of metal next to the handle, unless I am mistaken this is TOO BIG, and will not work. other than that good luck and send hard.
-Magnus
And codhands, you never answered, should i bother with a chest harness?
I guess it depends on what you're doing.. I am just doing single pitch sport and TR solo stuff. I just use a 48" sling that meets in the fron of my chest with a couple little loops tied in it to make it more secure. I think if you were going to do some more hardcore stuff a harness would be better, but for the more hardcore stuff I use a human partner.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 24, 2006, 2:22 PM
Post #86 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Cool, thanks. I think I'll buy one, they don't cost too much and so much more comfertable! From what i've checked the loops are pretty much perfect as for position for hold the grigri in place.
Thanks for your imput, and n00bs feel free to pm me!
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
afreeclimber
Aug 31, 2006, 6:33 PM
Post #87 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 42
|
Does anyone know if the pin on the front end of the GriGri is a single piece?
I'm referring to the axle which the movable side plate rotates on.
Reason for this question is because I would like to drill a single hole in the nose of the plastic only and then loop some cord or such around that axle (inside the area concealed by the plastic cover). The end product would be a loop of cord coming out of a single hole in the end of the GriGri.
This would negate the need to drill into the metal side plates and would still allow for a sturdy attachment point.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 31, 2006, 7:00 PM
Post #88 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Do not and I say again DO NOT FREAKING DO THAT!
Sorry for the burn, but that will seriously comprimise the integrity of the grigri! If the plates become loose due to that axle being damged or losened, allowing the plates to move across just half a mm, the the rope can slip under the silver metal lever, where it will undoubtidly take serious damage!
If you don't want to drill through the metal, out of either love of your grigri or fear of damaging the integrity, then use the temporary solo mod, I have been using it for months, with no problems other than just a wee bit of wobble!
What you need to do is this:
1) loacate the hinge conecting the adonised plates.
2)note the small gap towards the "front" of the hinge, (right up next to it)
3)Get some thin, but strong, string.
4) work said string into the small gap.
5) Tie into a small (2") loop in this string, a backed up fishmans knot is probobly the easyist thing to use (backed up because of lack of friction on small string)
6)treat this loop as the normal drilled loop and enjoy!
I have replaced the string once, due to wear and tear of openeing the plate rubbing and such like. It is highly proboble that you will notice some scraping on the non-lever side of the plate, where it slids under the wee silver nibb, this is simply due to the plate being pushed slightly across, like previously warned, this is why it is UNENFORCABLY IMPORTANT THAT THE STRING YOU USE IS NOT TOO THICK!
As a quick fix you can put some tape (it must be very strong tape, metolius climbing tape has good adhesion, it's what i use) on the side of the flap at the "back" of the grigri (side oposite previously stated hinge) to stop the rope slipping through here.
thank you for reading and please climb safe!
send hard, climb safe
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
codhands
Aug 31, 2006, 7:18 PM
Post #89 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 499
|
In reply to: Does anyone know if the pin on the front end of the GriGri is a single piece? I'm referring to the axle which the movable side plate rotates on. Reason for this question is because I would like to drill a single hole in the nose of the plastic only and then loop some cord or such around that axle (inside the area concealed by the plastic cover). The end product would be a loop of cord coming out of a single hole in the end of the GriGri. This would negate the need to drill into the metal side plates and would still allow for a sturdy attachment point.
In reply to: I drilled a hole through just the edge of the plastic. I had to take the grigri apart a little bit, but if all you're going to do is make a hole, you should avoid drilling through the metal. I don't have my grigri in front of me, and I have a couple beers already, but I recall there being one or two small screws that let the plastic seperate from the metal 'casing' very easily.
Looks like glyrocks has had his at least semi disassembled, maybe PM him and ask (I assume it's a solid "axle"). This probably isn't a good idea, and you will most likely die if you do it, but it's your own ass. It shouldn't be too big of a problem because you will be using relatively low strength twine so it will break in an inverted fall, but that axle is definately a structurally important component so I would proceed with caution if'n I was you.
|
|
|
|
|
afreeclimber
Sep 1, 2006, 5:01 PM
Post #90 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 42
|
Magnus,
I don't see how your system is any safer or different than the one I'm thinking about. You're looping cord around the same axle I'm talking about. You're actually wedging the cord between the side plate and the body of the GriGri (I know smaller cord is better) at the pivot point, which sort of makes the cord a fulcrum and the side plate a lever, which can put an unwanted force on the pin.
My proposed method just loops around the middle of the pin. The only force that should act on it is that produced by the rope feeding through the GriGri.
Also, I have an issue with all the comments concerning breakaway chest rigs. If the angle of the fall/position of the GriGri, etc. is such that the rope is just whipping through the GriGri as you fall, how much force is the rope imparting on the GriGri? If the rope isn't creating enough friction to activate the locking mechanism, will it impart enough force to break away the chest rig and allow the GriGri to orient itself at a different angle?
After close inspection of the angles, I can't say it would be safe to cut/file off the tab on the rear of the GriGri ,which is there to keep the rope from snagging the rear end of the locking mechanism lever. Set the flat base of the GriGri against a wall (oriented as it would be for solo climbing) and imagine a plumb line from the edge of the safety tab. It is just shy of bisecting the curve at the back of the handle...shy in the wrong direction. Removing any portion of the safety tab, for the sake of rope feed, would seem to increase the likelyhood of the rope catching under the lever.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Sep 3, 2006, 12:02 AM
Post #91 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Two things,
Firstly, all I was saying was that if you made even a minor calculation error in your drilling, you would damage the axle, and that was ther worry. sorry if I came across too harsh and seemed to be promoting "my" way of doing it.
Secondly, the problem with the rope going under the locking lever is covered in the discription, this again reinforces the fact that YOU MUST READ ACURATY AND TOTALLY THE TEXT PROVIDED!
I said that you must NOT cut off the flap, but cut it in such a way the the section of flap next to the locking lever is not removed!
As for the idea of breaking chest rigs... boy did that fall on it's face! If you read all the posts I said that it simply snaps as you start to climb, and if you make it too strong the friction from the inverted grigri isn't enough to break it.
thank you for reading!
Send hard, send safe, have fun!
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
afreeclimber
Oct 10, 2006, 8:28 PM
Post #92 of 92
(10798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 42
|
When oriented for soloing, even an un-modified GriGri can catch the rope under its cam lever. Any removal of the rear flap, allowing for a more direct rope feeding angle, will make it easier for the rope to hook the back of the cam lever.
The only aspects of the system which lessen the possibility of such an event are the rope's resistance to being bent sharply and the ability of the GriGri to rotate (in response to the rope pushing/pulling it, thus keeping the GriGri somewhat in-line with the rope). IMHO, this isn't something to rely on.
As far as I can tell, the most effective modification would be to remove the flap entirely and then weld a similar flap of metal (turned 90 degrees) to the body, directly behind the lever, filling in that open space. This would allow the rope to feed as well as possible with the given auto-locking mechanism and should negate any possibility of the rope catching behind the handle.
Obviously, this modification is pretty involved and I don't expect to see anyone do it. For all the trouble, one might as well buy a purpose-built device.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
