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crackmd
Sep 7, 2006, 2:07 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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I am thinking about heading up on 9/26 to climb Mithril Dihedral with my wife. We will have just gotten back from our honeymoon and Hawaii. We are hoping to extend the fun a few more days before I have to go back to work. My gut tells me that it may be a little late in the season to do this route, but I wanted to get some advice from climbers who have been up there around that time of year. I know that the weather can be extremely variable and we will be prepared for the worst. I'm just want to know if the probability of climbable weather is low at that time of year. I realize that there's tons of other lower elevation options to do, but both of us are Jonsin' to to Mithril. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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tim
Sep 7, 2006, 2:20 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
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It will be cold, but this is about the same time in the season that Dan DeLange and I did it a few years ago. Actually, it won't all be cold, just the part that's in the shade. If you time it right and climb fast, eg. from 10AM to 1PM or so, you should be able to get up and down with plenty of time for the descent. Don't screw up the descent! Keep going until you hit the cairned, obvious path down.
Basically, bring a puffy jacket for belaying and you should be fine.
Give me a call if you want, or PM me, if you need any more beta.
--t
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murf
Sep 11, 2006, 5:23 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
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Did Mithral IAD on 9/10/2006, corner was in full sun just before noon. The wind will make or break the temps. We were fairly warm, but hats and coats the whole time, even in the sun. As Tim notes, a start time of 10-ish should get the most sun on the route.
The East Ridge is fairly familar to me, but I still can't seem to get to Russell-Carrillon Col. in less than 40 minutes. I think 1.5 hours back to Upper Boy Scout is fairly quick, but not flying, assuming of course, you plan on descending the ER.
Enjoy!
Murf
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asuclimber
Sep 11, 2006, 6:11 PM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2005
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I did Mithral in early August of this year. Can't be of any help as far as the weather goes, but I thought I'd pass on what I learned climbing Russel.
- Don't underestimate the 4th class stuff at the top. We found it to be super exposed, very winding, and fairly difficult (5.8-5.9 in spots). We stayed roped up for it, and the rope drag was a killer (even with little to no gear in for most sections). The 4th class was definitely the most time consuming portion of the route.
- Getting to the summit and to the descent is tricky. We did the east ridge descent (couldn't find the correct gully descent), which was ok, but loose and exposed as well in sections.
- The approach is a long pain in the ass (9 miles I think). Make sure you get a nice early start.
Anyways, hope some of that helps. Good luck to you.
Paul
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esoteric1
Sep 13, 2006, 5:39 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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i was up there last month...wasnt too bad at all, you should be alright, we hit the regular descent...piece of cake. just be prepaired... happy trails
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