|
|
|
|
oldsalt
Sep 12, 2006, 3:27 AM
Post #1 of 2
(1131 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 919
|
Last Saturday, I got away from the job and drove to Mt. Yonah with a stop-over in Atlanta to see my daughter. It was a very nice day for early September, and the new trail made the hike up to Lowers especially nice.
My plan was to go either to A. get in several solo leads on the Main Face to document the state of the anchors on the Two-Man Party routes, or B. go for the on-sight of Lowers One on my solo lead device. I had my Canon digital and my Panasonic mini-DV recorder. I was having dinner with my daughter, so time was more limited than normal.
Once I got to Lowers and took a look at the time, I decided to stay low and come back another time with a full day at my disposal to look at those anchors. I built a terrific bolt anchor using the hangers for numbers 0, 1, and 1a. I equalized the three links right underneath the row of bolts for 1.
I brought my old New England Ropes 10.2, since I haven't finished the new locking toggle on my device and the old one might be rough on the rope. My Edelweiss is so new that I almost don't want to use it, so it won't lose its new feel.
I still haven't fallen on the device outside of the gym, with a top rope back-up, so I was climbing as though free-soloing. This was my ninth pitch of solo leading on actual rock, so I was able to focus on climbing and just forget about the belay device. I know it will be there for me, so I just climb.
Lowers One is right in a 90 degree corner with sections of vertical cracks and a variety of knobs and several flake-like sections about 1/2" wide. There are some good hands and some relatively barren areas, so the 5.6 rating is probably right. The crux is between clips one and two. Up to there, I had one foot on each face of the corner.
Taking my time, I eased up to the slabby upper section and then was able to almost walk up to the two ringless bolts. I clipped into a pair of draws, then decided to stay on my device and just lower off.
For you fellow purists regarding lowering off routes: I was lowering off my own draws, and my device moves up and down the rope so there is no friction or rope movement through anchors.
After a smooth lower, I just moved to my left and started up Lowers Zero with the rope still hanging on the anchors for Lowers One. With the rope still anchored to the ground, I was just top roping now. The device was in ascender mode. This is a tougher climb for me, with a foot placement at the crux that has thoughtfully been bolted dead center. I pretended that the bolt was not there and stepped on the foot placement anyway - different ethics when you are TR soloing.
Finally back to the top, I clipped in with slings and pulled the rope up and threaded it through both hangers. There are no rings on these anchors and I hate to run a rope through hangers. I won't rap or lower off a single hanger, but I decided to rap with both strands instead of lowering with the device on just one. Also, I had not brought my modified fifi hook and second rope to rap on and then pull down from the ground.
The rappel was routine, which means that I rigged the ATC and checked it a couple of times before weighting it fully. Only then did I unclip my slings and hang it all out there.
Once down, I found that the Army had arrived. The Rangers were setting up on Lowers Five, which is a cool, roped high ball problem up to a large ledge. There was a class of advanced trainees aiding a bolt ladder with aiders, slings, and oval biners.
I asked for permission to take picture and it was granted. While shooting some video, two Rangers rapped right through my view-finder from overhead. I had a terrific day and hiked back down without re-injuring my weak left ankle. I do wish that I had started climbing 30 years ago.
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Sep 12, 2006, 3:32 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1131 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
thank you for the TR, oldsalt!
:D
|
|
|
|
|
|
