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derekwi
Oct 5, 2006, 5:53 PM
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I am new to the sport of slack lining but have already run along some different techniques in setting up even the most primitive of systems. My main concern is what knots I should use and what the benefits of each knot are.
The main knots that I am confused about are the water knot vs. bowline/some variation of the bowline vs. truckers hitch. The consensus seems to be that for the tightening system a clove hitch will work just fine as long as two carabineers are being used to untie the knot. My main concern is about which to use for runners/rabbit runners around trees and at the attaching points of my slack line (other than the standard figure 8). If any of the above mentioned will work fine I would still greatly appreciate an overview of the benefits and pitfalls of each type of knot.(On line it seems as though everyone has their favorite).
As a side note I have also noticed some information on a z pull type tightening system and during one of my setups I had an extra carabineer and I had set up a standard variation of the 3 to 1 system but in an effort to use the last carabineer to try to gain some advantage I accidentally made a simple z pull type system and to me it seemed to work better than the 3 to 1 as far as pulling effort was concerned. I was wondering if this is an acceptable way to tighten a slack line and what anyone else’s results have been with a z pull system.
Thank you for your input
Derek
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slacker_jon
Oct 6, 2006, 9:13 PM
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line lockers are the way forward!
http://forum.slackline.com/modules.php?name=Encyclopedia&op=content&tid=8
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derekwi
Oct 9, 2006, 2:10 PM
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Thanks for the tip the solution looks great. Really easy to set up/tear down and without any twist + easy to get cheap hardware. Thanks for the info. If anyone else wants to reply though I am still interested in what the difference is between the knots I mentioned previously.
Also the Z pull/drag I mentioned was incorrect terminology in my setup I used the free end of the cord attached to an extra carabineer clipped past the initial tightening system to tighten the line further and this angled leverage seemed to have a greater effect than the 3 to 1. I don’t know exactly what this is called but I was wondering if anyone has had similar results or any input on whether or not using this type of system was proper.
Thanks again especially for the line locker tip.
Derek
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quadfire
Oct 11, 2006, 7:52 PM
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I also use those line lockers and they work great. Much easier to adjust than a clove hitch.
I use the old 3:1 Mechanical nothing fancy. for my anchor slings I have found that two opposite grapevine knots work great and are really easy to untie.
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billypilgrim
Oct 11, 2006, 10:30 PM
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I use the slackers hitch for my tree anchors. It is very fast to adjust and tie and always easy to untie. I think it is pretty much identical to a trucker hitch. There is an in depth description of it somewhere in this forum, that is where I learned to tie it.
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slacker_jon
Oct 11, 2006, 11:08 PM
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Grapevine knot - I like it, we call it a double fisherman's :D
Still can't picture exactly what you mean by the Z-pull :?
What I did was to spend some of my overdraft to buy some nice pulleys, and I'd recommend anyone that's out grown the 3 biner system to do the same. You can rig any line solo and quicker than any other method I know, meaning more time to slackline :lol:
What I learnt upon the way though was about the benefit of multipliers, which got me thinking - so I did a little experiment... :idea:
I used a 2 biner system and pulled as tight as I could, wrapped the tail off around my tree, and then took some static rope and tied it between the biners with a sheet bend as tight as I could. I then released the tension on the tail of the line, and transferred the tension to the static rope 'sling', and made a line locker as near to the biner end of the tail-line as posible, and made a 3 biner system. I then pulled that tight, re-tied the static rope, re-set the the 3 biners et cetera, until until I had a wire tight line, it was only short, but set low so I could practice jumping and landing on the line.
I'm sure it would work for a longer line too, I'll set myself a challenge of rigging an 80' line solo using this method and then walking it. Equipment list for this challenge: 1 long length 1" un-threaded line, 2 chain links, 6 steel ovals, 3 slings, a static rope, and sling protectors as standard (to protect them from those filthy tree huggers! :lol: :lol: :wink: ).
It may take a while, as the weather is terrible here - it's not even got light today :cry: - but I'll post up when I've tried it :!:
Slack on :arrow:
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slacker_jon
Oct 11, 2006, 11:13 PM
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All mother of Southfarthing Leaf - that's a terrible explanation :lol: hope it makes sense :lol:
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greenketch
Oct 13, 2006, 3:11 AM
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Works great for me. I do a similar thing all the time. Only difference is that in the place of the biner that is not showing the tape mark I use a single link from a piece of 3/8" chain.
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greenketch
Oct 13, 2006, 3:11 AM
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Double post. :?
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gymslackerclimber
Oct 13, 2006, 5:32 AM
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In reply to: Works great for me. I do a similar thing all the time. Only difference is that in the place of the biner that is not showing the tape mark I use a single link from a piece of 3/8" chain.
nice,
i should of elaborated more with my question to the engineers, as to the sideways biner and the sideways force of the gate. but considering the gate(side) is not involved with the friction, and not bearing much force, i think its bomber. but i know not much.
anyone care to share
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