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afreeclimber


Oct 16, 2006, 6:45 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 42
Mt. Shasta
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I'm in need of beta about climbing on Mt. Shasta.

-is there near vertical or at least steep ice on the mountain?
-if the only steep ice is inside crevasses, which glacier hosts the best?
-which times of year can you climb ice on Shasta?

-any fun routes to the summit that you would recommend.

Thanks for the info. I plan on heading to Shasta in the next couple months.


rhyang


Oct 16, 2006, 7:25 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 140
Re: Mt. Shasta [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I'm in need of beta about climbing on Mt. Shasta.

-is there near vertical or at least steep ice on the mountain?
-if the only steep ice is inside crevasses, which glacier hosts the best?
-which times of year can you climb ice on Shasta?

-any fun routes to the summit that you would recommend.

Thanks for the info. I plan on heading to Shasta in the next couple months.

Steep ice ? There are seracs and crevasses. I've heard of people going to the Whitney in the summer, but the east side of the Hotlum seems more convenient to me - around 12000' on the western edge of the Hotlum-Wintun snowfield there are some bivy sites. I'd worry about seracs though, especially in summer - they tend to collapse in the heat.

In the late summer and early fall there are some ice gullies which form to the left and right of the Hotlum Headwall. Never climbed the right one, but the left one is about 55 degrees max.

Winter is usually not a good time to climb ice on Shasta - snow covers up the crevasses and blocks the north & east side trailheads (looong ski in). Only Bunny Flat is open after the first big snowstorms.

In the winter people seem to go up Casaval Ridge or Green Butte Ridge - less avy hazard. The former is great fun, though I haven't tried it in winter yet, and the latter is on my list. Be careful though - winter weather up there can really suck, especially with the jet stream basically right over top of the mountain (100 mph winds). Avalanche Gulch is not typically recommended (there is a reason it is called that).

Check out shastaavalanche.org for more info. Good luck !


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Alpine & Ice

 


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