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veganboyjosh
Oct 21, 2006, 1:08 AM
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so, i started climbing beginning with trad. outsideobviously. my first partners were pretty against, bolting, so maybe i'm off base here, not understanding some of the indoor specifics and ethics and such. if so, someone please let me know. and i'm not sure if these are normal practices or what, maybe so, and i'm totally in the wrong.
with that disclaimer, i'll get to the issue:
i was at the gym the other day, and i saw the routesetter putting up some new routes. he was totally aiding up the rope with a grigri. i was under the impression that real sport routes went up from the ground up, not on rappell, or while aiding up the thing on toprope.
i still don't climb inside that much, i've only been a couple of times, but this totally disgusted me, and i don't have any desire to climb at this gym again. (i saw him put up a couple of routes this way, so i'm guessing they were all put up like this.)
i'd rather climb on real routes, even if they're inside, in the gym.
what do you all think?
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timm
Oct 21, 2006, 1:19 AM
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Are you serious ?
Cheers.
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moose_droppings
Oct 21, 2006, 1:26 AM
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In reply to: what do you all think?
T1
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mushroomcloud_2
Oct 21, 2006, 2:11 AM
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:shock:
I thought I was the only one who was confused/shocked by such behavior. The guy I saw route setting on TR had a 5 gal bucket full of holds...on a different rope! AND I saw him chip a hold too.
Is this how all FA indoor routes go up?
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sustainedclimber
Oct 21, 2006, 2:14 AM
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*begins slow clap...*
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gunkiemike
Oct 21, 2006, 2:37 AM
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Ah, what happened to the Good Old Days (tm), when indoor routes were established onsight, ground up.
I still remember how hard it was stemming in that corner, with the weight of three 4x8 panels of plywood on my back trying to peel me off while I countersunk those screws.
Then I realized that I forgot to put the T nuts in and had to take the damn panel off again!
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poedoe
Oct 21, 2006, 2:44 AM
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me personally, I love setting routes off pre-existing holds on the wall possibly puting some of my own on to get the moves I want. With this said however I think you'll notice a different style of route setting between what I like to do and how the person you described does it. Neither is good nor bad. Anyways in your routeseters defense you ought to try and put holds on the wall one handed sometimes while hanging on lead. Holds tend to be quite heavy and you also have to get the screw in without crossthreading it which sometimes can require two hands.
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rockguide
Oct 21, 2006, 3:14 AM
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In reply to: (snip) i still don't climb inside that much, i've only been a couple of times, but this totally disgusted me, and i don't have any desire to climb at this gym again. (snip)
I don't think they will miss you. Trolls are a dime o'dozen.
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chossmonkey
Oct 21, 2006, 3:18 AM
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In reply to: what do you all think?
:roll:
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mtengaio
Oct 21, 2006, 3:21 AM
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Holy crap, what does the current Troll rating top out at?
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jimdavis
Oct 21, 2006, 3:30 AM
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In reply to: Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:08 pm
Is there better time for a little trolling though?
Jim
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fancyclaps
Oct 21, 2006, 3:45 AM
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Bah.
He should do it ground up free solo. Naked, covered with honey and have a bees nest hung from a rope behind him.
Thats how REAL routes go up.
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chossmonkey
Oct 21, 2006, 3:51 AM
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In reply to: Holy crap, what does the current Troll rating top out at? |
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jh_angel
Oct 21, 2006, 3:51 AM
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As some one who has set indoors I must say that I am appalled at what you say you've seen. This is behavior that is total unacceptable with in the climbing community and should be stop at all costs. Please next time you are there and see him doing that hit him with a large, blunt object that will permanently maim him. Thank you.
-The Masshole
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mushroomcloud_2
Oct 21, 2006, 4:06 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:08 pm Is there better time for a little trolling though? Jim
Only if you can accurately understand how to tell time. :roll:
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jimdavis
Oct 21, 2006, 4:23 AM
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In reply to: Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:08 pm
Is there better time for a little trolling though?
Jim
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mushroomcloud_2
Oct 21, 2006, 4:30 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:08 pm Is there better time for a little trolling though? Jim
In reply to: Posted: 20 Oct 2006 18:08
Everyone knows that 8:08 pm on a Friday is never a good time for trolling....But in some circles, 6:08 pm is the perfect time. :wink:
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micahisaac
Oct 21, 2006, 6:03 AM
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I usually just set my fifi hooks in the t-nuts whilst setting the route, by the time you get to a 45degree angle it's like A6
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jt512
Oct 21, 2006, 6:31 AM
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In reply to: so, i started climbing beginning with trad. outsideobviously. my first partners were pretty against, bolting, so maybe i'm off base here, not understanding some of the indoor specifics and ethics and such. if so, someone please let me know. and i'm not sure if these are normal practices or what, maybe so, and i'm totally in the wrong. with that disclaimer, i'll get to the issue: i was at the gym the other day, and i saw the routesetter putting up some new routes. he was totally aiding up the rope with a grigri. i was under the impression that real sport routes went up from the ground up, not on rappell, or while aiding up the thing on toprope. i still don't climb inside that much, i've only been a couple of times, but this totally disgusted me, and i don't have any desire to climb at this gym again. (i saw him put up a couple of routes this way, so i'm guessing they were all put up like this.) i'd rather climb on real routes, even if they're inside, in the gym. what do you all think?
I think that if you're planning on becoming a full-time troll, that you'd better not give up your day job.
Jay
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ratmnerd
Oct 21, 2006, 6:43 AM
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In reply to: so, i started climbing beginning with trad. outsideobviously. my first partners were pretty against, bolting, so maybe i'm off base here, not understanding some of the indoor specifics and ethics and such. if so, someone please let me know. and i'm not sure if these are normal practices or what, maybe so, and i'm totally in the wrong. with that disclaimer, i'll get to the issue: i was at the gym the other day, and i saw the routesetter putting up some new routes. he was totally aiding up the rope with a grigri. i was under the impression that real sport routes went up from the ground up, not on rappell, or while aiding up the thing on toprope. i still don't climb inside that much, i've only been a couple of times, but this totally disgusted me, and i don't have any desire to climb at this gym again. (i saw him put up a couple of routes this way, so i'm guessing they were all put up like this.) i'd rather climb on real routes, even if they're inside, in the gym. what do you all think?
like, dude, wow.
The only person i know who sets routes in a gym ground up is sharma. when i grow up i want to be like sharma.
TRUE STORY: I've seen him set a 5.13c ground-up doing a one arm lockoff on a massive roof on a manky pinch over a bear pit with broken glass surrounding it, with like a 5lb bucket of bolts swinging off his haul loop, while his other hand bolted the next hold (a polished sloper (green) with a slight indentation on the bottom so you could undercling). *sighs and gets all misty-eyed* that was one sick route. I liked the belly flop he did onto the bears afterwards too. they were all like "wow, we just ate sharma".
dude, this is setting an unprecedented level of troll. i move this be graded T12+, unless the OP doesn't want to grade it, feeling it imposes a limitation on the troll.
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kricir
Oct 21, 2006, 7:58 AM
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Micahisaac wrote:
In reply to: I usually just set my fifi hooks in the t-nuts whilst setting the route, by the time you get to a 45degree angle it's like A6
Hmm, that’s an interesting approach, I usually just dry tool the little holes (mono point crampons are useful). I’m afraid that I am also unclear on indoor ethics, because whenever I place an ice screw (which is not easy), every one gets pissed off and I usually get kicked out. The employees give me an expletive laden explanation about how they will have to replace the wall I climbed. Why does this upset people? I thought that was why you had to pay so damn much to get in!
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coolklimber
Oct 27, 2006, 1:16 AM
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How else do you set a route? I set up a fixed line, tie a bucket w/holds etc. to one side, and grigri up(back-up knots every so often) the other. How else would you set a route, especially on overhanging aspects. :?: How do they set a route at your gym?
>Cam
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caughtinside
Oct 27, 2006, 1:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Holy crap, what does the current Troll rating top out at? T10 maybe?
Well, we've all seen what can happen with a closed scale. Pretty soon we'll be seeing T10.b, T10c, etc.
Just because it doesn't seem possible now, doesn't mean that future generations won't troll harder, better and longer than we are currently capable of.
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kmc
Oct 27, 2006, 1:43 AM
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Im almost ashamed to admit it now, but I guess I'll let the secret out. I set at a gym. I used to set everything on lead, putting one hold in at a time as a lead the route. Doing this however, I coulnt set anything close to my limit, so (ashamed to admit it) recently I too have been using a rope, or even a ladder at times. Guess you want no part of my gym either.
Funny post though.
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chossmonkey
Oct 27, 2006, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Holy crap, what does the current Troll rating top out at? T10 maybe? Well, we've all seen what can happen with a closed scale. Pretty soon we'll be seeing T10.b, T10c, etc. Just because it doesn't seem possible now, doesn't mean that future generations won't troll harder, better and longer than we are currently capable of.
:lol:
I don't really know much about the whole Tscale.
But I have heard outrageous claims of up to T15!
I just don't know how that could be if T14 still hasn't been fully solidified.
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