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tslater
Nov 6, 2006, 2:52 AM
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Registered: Mar 21, 2005
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I've heard rumors, but is this place for real? Can you climb it? Is it legal? Are there routes? It doesn't look very good, but for me it would be in my in-law's back yard (almost literally).Right off Hwy 134 (Figeroa Exit). Anyone know anything? (remember, I didn't ask if it was good...)
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socalbolter
Nov 6, 2006, 4:39 AM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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I've climbed on it a few times. Mostly topropes off some really old anchors, but did one very exciting solo on the right fringe of the dome.
It's loose cobble climbing for the most part, but I've seen looser stuff at Maple clean up just fine, so who knows...
As for legality, I haven't seen any signs saying it's not allowed, but I can offer that some of the steepest rock is in people's backyards (literally - I mean inside their fenced yards that end at the base of the rock). There are a few steep slab sections and a pair of short caves, but again they are found around the left side of the formation where there does not appear to be any real approach.
The right side could be cleaned up to offer a fair amount of beginning to moderate slab climbing on cobbles, but the uncertain legality, lack of parking and quality of the climbing might prove problematic to it ever enjoying any real popularity. That said, if things worked out (legally) it is perfectly located for after work sessions and would likely see some regular activity.
The few times I've gone there I have had people stop and watch me, but have never been run off, despite it being a highly visible location.
Let me know how this turns out if you decide to pursue it.
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tslater
Nov 6, 2006, 2:51 PM
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Registered: Mar 21, 2005
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Cool, sound at least like it would be worth pursuing. Maybe I'll top rope a few things and see what happens. A couple modern routes up the main face would be pretty cool.
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Lebenistgut16
Apr 27, 2007, 6:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2007
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We have as well top roped this climb. The main line running down from the anchors would be a fun little 5.7 maybe a 6 lead if it were bolted. The roof sort of object on the left was obviously lead sometime in the yester years. There are some bolts that look circa 70's? It is local rock for us down here and would love to help set some routes on this. If you wanted to meet up someday, or just give is some advice it would be awesome.
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Tfish
Oct 22, 2009, 6:06 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 7
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I climbed it today. It was pretty fun. Some loose rock, but most was solid. There are some anchors up top. Definitively worth doing if you live near by. Bring long webbing!
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