Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice:
North Pal U-notch, need some advice..
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crazyaboutclimbing500


Nov 10, 2006, 6:01 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2006
Posts: 62

North Pal U-notch, need some advice..
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So, I'm no n00b at rock climbing, but I don't know that much about Ice climbing and I need a little help.

I've been on several snow camping/mountaineering trips, but I haven't been on anything that extreme.

My dad and I are planning on doing the u-notch either this winter or possibly the summer at north pal and I was wondering what to expect? What kind of gear do I need? do I need dual short ice axes, or is one full size ice axe ok? I'm looking at the Black Diamond Venom because it's not too expensive and looks like a good axe for mountaineering.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks


jason_martin


Nov 18, 2006, 9:35 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Re: [crazyaboutclimbing500] North Pal U-notch, need some advice.. [In reply to]
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It all depends on when you go. Late summer and fall, the route is 40-50 degree water ice depending on where you go on the route. For this you will definately feel more comfortable with two tools.

When the route is more neve than ice, you might be able to get away with one axe. However, since it sounds like this is your first foray on steep snow/ice, you probably do want two tools.

You will probably need a few ice screws to feel comfortable. If there is a lot of snow in there, you might even use pickets.

If you do do a winter ascent, watch conditions closely. That gully could slide after a storm.

Jason


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