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nutstuffer
Nov 14, 2006, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2006
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Its getting close to xmas and I am thinking about asking santa for a skinny lead rope. Less weight, less drag, I want one. I've read the reviews, but don't know any one who has owned one. In the 9.1 to 9.8 range what belay device do you use, catching falls, durability, did you like yours, etc..
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overlord
Nov 14, 2006, 10:57 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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check out the gear section of this site.
i have a 9.5 mammut (i think its called infinity, but thats a guess). no problems with grigri, reverso or atc. durability is actually better than i expected. and i love it.
when this one goes i will definitely consider buying a second (unless i give something like edleweiss a chance).
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vegastradguy
Nov 14, 2006, 11:44 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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i've found that in general, 9.4-9.7 is a pretty good range for a lead line. i've led on a 9.2, and it's pretty sweet, but a bit skinny, and the durability is a factor depending on what you're doing.
that said, belay devices- one with teeth like the ATC XP or Guide is always nice for cords on the skinny side, but if you're experienced, you should be alright.
the grigri works as well, but take note that if you're falling and hanging on a grigri, the skinny cords can (and often do) slowly slip through the grigri- so, just keep your hand on the brake line (as you should be doing anyway) and you should be good.
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sspssp
Nov 15, 2006, 7:12 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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In reply to: In the 9.1 to 9.8 range what belay device do you use, catching falls, durability, did you like yours, etc..
First off, when looking at ropes, look at the weight not the size. Different companies measure (or at least make claims) the diameter differently.
The reason for a skinny lead line is to save weight. So look at weight and weight will tell you how much nylon is there to catch a fall.
As far as size/weight, it is generally a tradeoff between weight and durability. The light weight singles start around 55 gm/m.
A grigri works. However, you should belay with it like it was an ATC. It will not lock off automatically. The good news, you generally don't have to hold the lever down to feed that skinny of rope. Since you don't have to hold the lever down, it is pretty easy to belay with but the "catch" requires holding the brake rope down like with an ATC.
I actually prefer the Cinch for the skinny ropes. It is designed for skinnier ropes than the grigri, but the lowering takes some getting used to.
An atc style device with notches jor teeth is another option. I still like my trusty Jaws for skinny ropes.
Belaying with a glove will also add a lot of safety factor.
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redlegrangerone
Nov 15, 2006, 7:17 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2005
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I use a Mammut Infinity 9.5mm. I do the majority of my climbing in the Cochise Stronghold. This area is very rough, gritty, and hard on ropes. My ropes have stood up very well for the year I have been using them. Considering I am a newer climber also, this speaks well of them. I will be getting another one again when the time comes.
I did switch to a bd guide belay device. While I have had no trouble catching falls, I wanted to make sure it never happened.
The biggest reaction I get is from climbers who have never used a skinny rope. They are often afraid of it, until they get on it and use it.
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wings
Nov 15, 2006, 7:54 PM
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
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I have a 9.4mm Mammut rope (don't remember the name, they don't make it anymore) which is 5 years old and retired from outdoor use, but I still use it for leading indoors. It is still supple and aside from one problem spot on the sheath (which I've chopped off, reducing it from 70m to ... 44m?), it's been great.
I have a 9.7mm Beal Booster which I use for trad which is about 3 years old and is holding up well. I've read reviews which state that this rope is not that durable, but I haven't had any problems with it.
I have a 9.7mm Blue Water Lightning Pro which I've been using for about a year, for sport routes. I don't like the feel of it as much as the Beal, but I haven't used it enough yet to really say how it will hold up.
My main climbing partner has a 9.7mm Beal Booster which he uses for everything, and has been for about 2 years or so. It's getting a bit fuzzy, but I don't consider that to be a major issue.
As someone else mentionned, look more at weight than diameter. You'll also want to look at impact force and number of falls.
As for belay devices, I've never had any issues with any of these ropes on any belay device that I've ever used. That includes the plain ol' ATC and the Grigri. Teeth are nice (a la Trango Jaws, ATC XP, etc ...), but not strictly necessary.
(This post was edited by wings on Nov 15, 2006, 7:57 PM)
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kmc
Nov 16, 2006, 7:07 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2006
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Ive had the Blue Water 9.7 lighting pro for about a year and a half, maybe two years. Although it is coming to the end of its life, it held up very well. Got a lot of use out of it, 2 seasons on rock, and 1 ice. During rock seasons, get out maybe 2 out of 3 weeks, typically for 2 days, sometimes 3 at a time. Ice, only a handfull of times. (just to get an idea how much use it got) The rope was used mainly as a lead line (trad), some, but not much toproping. Now the rope is starting to get soft and fluffy (doesnt feed as smoothly lead belaying) no real sheath or core damage though. It held up much better than my last 2 ropes, which were both Sterling 10.2's. I plan on sticking with Blue Water ropes for the my next.
~Kevin
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lightrack
Nov 16, 2006, 7:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 3, 2003
Posts: 46
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i purchased the 9.1 joker this summer and it is sweet. looks kinda skinny, but handles so good, i wouldnt want anything else. its light, feeds easy, perfect for redpoints, long pitches (perfect @deto) and ive even used it as a tagline. maybe wouldnt use it for powerdogging though. 9.1 is bassically a 9.4 which is basically a 9.7 which is a 10. lol, get the skinny
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hummerchine
Nov 18, 2006, 6:42 AM
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Registered: May 7, 2006
Posts: 37
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Beal Joker, Edelweiss Performance, Mammut Serenity all rule...hard to go wrong here. I prefer a Metolius BRD for added friction belaying with all ropes. Enjoy!
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