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Climbing in MASS
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highspeedwallstaff


Nov 28, 2006, 2:26 AM
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Climbing in MASS
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Hey im a few days away from graduation and am moving to MA, i was wondering what the best place to climb in the area is? I grew up in Groton Ma and know New England pretty well but not the climbing spots. RC.com helps but i rather some personal opinions about the are.


redpoint73


Nov 28, 2006, 2:25 PM
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Re: [highspeedwallstaff] Climbing in MASS [In reply to]
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That depends on what you mean by "best". My favorite places to climb are actually not in Mass, but in new Hampshire.

There are a few local spots that are very easily accessible from the Boston area (15-30 min drive) for some bouldering or TR, such as Hammond Pond, and the Quincy Quarries.

Groton is not far from Crow Hill in Leominster. It offers some decently long cliffs with real trad leads. But there is really only a handful of good routes, that are often crowded by Bostonians too lazy to drive farther. Crow Hill seeps for a long time after it rains, also. A better option is to just drive an extra hour for some truly great climbing in New Hampshire. Rumney is the spot for incredible sport climbs, while Cathedral and Whitehorse in North Conway are the most notable trad crags.

Pawtuckaway is just across the NH border, in SE New Hampshire, and offers a ton of great bouldering problems. Pick up "New England Bouldering" by Tim Kemple for the lowdown on Pawtuckaway and other spots.

"Boston Rocks" is a good guide for Hammond Pond, Quincy, Crow Hill and other spots around the Boston Hub.


whistler


Nov 28, 2006, 3:28 PM
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Re: [highspeedwallstaff] Climbing in MASS [In reply to]
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there are other, better spots in mass if you go further west, but access is not perfect. drop me a line and i can tell you about them.


jonzoclimber


Nov 28, 2006, 4:24 PM
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Re: [whistler] Climbing in MASS [In reply to]
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Farley is an expansive boulder range and cliff face. its in the north quabbin woods and is relatively cheap. i'm in college too and have been thinking of places i want to move post school next year... personally i'm thinking either new hampshire for rumney or for pawtuckaway, or if i wanted to stay in MA, maybe somewhere by North Hampton for the central MA bouldering.

hopefully other people that live around here will post their opinions on this to give us a better idea of how areas actually are...

jon


perionychium


Nov 28, 2006, 4:32 PM
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Re: [highspeedwallstaff] Climbing in MASS [In reply to]
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It depends where in MA you are living. Since I lack a car, I go to Hammond Pond, Quincy Quarries, or Crow Hill whenever I have to depend on the MBTA or whenever my climbing buddies want to get in a quick climbing session.

But, personally, nothing beats climbing in NH. Between, Rumney, North Conway, and Pawtuckaway you have some fantastic spots to experience any variation of climbing you wish to.

Additionally, the Gunks is about a 3 hour drive from Boston and Lincoln, RI offers some awesome bouldering.

However, I've only been climbing for a year so I have yet to explore all the climbing MA has to offer. But, you should purchase a copy of either Boston Rocks or New England Climbing to see what the area has to offer.


gobotrocker


Dec 3, 2006, 1:36 AM
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I'm in Springfield, if your in the area drop me an E-mail.


Mike1111


Dec 4, 2006, 5:02 PM
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Hello all. No question that Rose Ledge is the best place that I have been in Western Mass. Its in the Northfield Mountain Range. Great access, parking for $3 on the honor system and about 20 minute uphill approach time.

Mostly a TR area there are a few leads available. Some quality routes in the 5.9 - 5.11 range but also some stiffer climbs as well as some cake walks for the newbie or taking the kids. Let me know if you need some additional info. Smile

Mike


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