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nightlion
Dec 3, 2006, 4:41 AM
Post #51 of 61
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Registered: Jul 31, 2004
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I do have one friend that climbs with out chalk. She doesn't sweat at all. But, everytime we are at the crag and someone sees her climbing without even having a chalk bag on you can hear them making a big deal out of it.--just a little more proof that chalkless climbers are rare if not an endangered species.
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thefleck
Dec 3, 2006, 5:15 AM
Post #52 of 61
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Registered: Nov 16, 2006
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I don't usually need chalk when I'm bouldering, unless I'm doing repeat attempts on something tricky. Anything over 20 feet and a little pumpy is when my hands start to sweat and chalk is a must.
I don't really see the ethical argument against chalk use. It's freaking CHALK, not paint. You're not doing permanent damage to the rock or anything. Some people will get up on their ethical high horse over pretty much anything...
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nutstuffer
Dec 3, 2006, 5:34 AM
Post #53 of 61
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Registered: Oct 2, 2006
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If you don't like using chalk, or looking at chalk on the rock, I can respect this as your opinion. I would say that my hands are average, as far as sweating.
There is no doubt that a freshly chalked hand will produce more friction. If you do not believe it does you must be climbing routes with sharp edges, or not climbing the types of rock where holds are slopey or smooth, or you just don't realize the difference. I really don't know. It likes someone saying that sticky rubber doesn't help you climb.
If you don't use it or think you don't need it, good for you.
There is a route at my local crag, easy 12, with a babies head over a roof. I have learned from experience it is a big mistake to work this hold without chalking immediately before using it or its like pulling on half of a greased cue ball. Even though I have to stop while hanging off a two finger pocket, to take the time to chalk well and blow off the extra. It makes a huge difference in my ability to keep my hand from moving while pulling this thing down to my knee.
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blazesod
Dec 3, 2006, 5:51 AM
Post #54 of 61
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Registered: Apr 27, 2002
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I like to use sand and rocks off the ground before the first pitch to wipe any sweat, slime and sunblock off my hands before I start on a lead. I have a chalk bag with a ball in it that soaks up sweat off my palms faster then my shirt sleeve.
If you chalk up like a Gaisha girl, brush that trash off the rock when you are done. Thanks.
Cheers,
Dave :)
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mil_mil
Dec 3, 2006, 10:22 AM
Post #55 of 61
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Registered: Nov 8, 2006
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thefleck wrote: I don't usually need chalk when I'm bouldering, unless I'm doing repeat attempts on something tricky. Anything over 20 feet and a little pumpy is when my hands start to sweat and chalk is a must. I don't really see the ethical argument against chalk use. It's freaking CHALK, not paint. You're not doing permanent damage to the rock or anything. Some people will get up on their ethical high horse over pretty much anything...
there is kind of an ethical arguement behind it. if you go to say Pilot Mountain NC specifically the three bears there are some parts of the rock that having been climbed so much have a glass feeling to the holds form so much chalk being aplied over the years and you actualy need to chalk up just to be able to get any traction on them.
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ja1484
Dec 3, 2006, 3:49 PM
Post #57 of 61
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
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Loose chalk and plenty of it. I don't need to be futzing around with slippery digits when the crux rolls around.
Yes, there'll be some residue on the rocks. Wait for rain. If the line is overhung, do some charity work some time and haul a supersoaker to the top and sprtiz her clean on rappel/lower. Done it before plenty of times.
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_xav_
Dec 5, 2006, 3:49 PM
Post #58 of 61
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Registered: Aug 28, 2006
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baja_java wrote: no chalk. none. because i'd rather fail without chalk than to FAIL AS A HUMAN BEING!! yeah, that's right. you heard me. most people don't really give a rat's ass about the rock anyway. but of course no one likes the idea of seeing themselves that way. i mean, god forbid you're a bad person. considering how easy it is to stop or at least curtail use, and yet most don't, but just keep on chalking even when it's just a mindless compulsion, think that says plenty clear about the toughness of mind that climbing supposedly brings out of you, strength of character and all that bloated crap. yeah, whatever and because it leaves a mess on the rock. you'd have to be blind to not see that, that or in full blown denial, or like said, that you don't really care and because you don't really need it
some people do really have sweaty hands and need chalk, myself being one of them
I think it is possible to clean talk from the rock with a toothbrush no?
and I'd say putting anchors in the rock isn't so nice for the rock neither.
Tough I totally agree climbers have to respect the nature the climb in.
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jt512
Dec 5, 2006, 4:30 PM
Post #59 of 61
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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baja_java wrote: no chalk. none. because i'd rather fail without chalk than to FAIL AS A HUMAN BEING!! yeah, that's right. you heard me. most people don't really give a rat's ass about the rock anyway. but of course no one likes the idea of seeing themselves that way. i mean, god forbid you're a bad person. considering how easy it is to stop or at least curtail use, and yet most don't, but just keep on chalking even when it's just a mindless compulsion, think that says plenty clear about the toughness of mind that climbing supposedly brings out of you, strength of character and all that bloated crap.
Talk about bloated crap!
Jay
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weirdoclimer
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Dec 5, 2006, 10:54 PM
Post #60 of 61
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angry
Dec 6, 2006, 5:09 AM
Post #61 of 61
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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weirdoclimer wrote: In reply to: I go through about a block a route. I turned a poop tube into a chalkbag, so i can chalk up to my elbows. I need them to stay dry for all my chickenwinging. I also spit on my knees and coat them with chalk if I'm going to have to kneebar. I love chalk. I am always looking for new and better ways to cheat. I'm with Caughtinside on that one -- I chalk up my whole body, I chalk up my frickin' elbows and my knees. I'd chalk the whole route if I had enough chalk. And, I know this has been discussed before -- the real question is how do people justify using TAPE -- fvuckin' asses climbing in the desert with tape?! Totally unnecessary and causes way more damage to the rock than chalk. Oh, and climbing shoes -- sticky rubber?! Gear too. Ripping out cams?! angry wrote: I've climbed all of the hardest routes I've done without chalk, and will climb even harder in the future, still with no chalk. Oh, and Angry let's see you climb without tape jackass -- then I'll be impressed (flame me baby)
And that brings me to my next point, don't do crack.
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