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ikefromla
Jun 3, 2005, 2:08 PM
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some of these guys talking about just HOW soft Red Rocks is are a exaggerating just a little. yes, Sweet Pain is the softest climb on the planet, and I would also give it 11b, but Fear and Loathing? get real, if it's soft, then it's a hard 11d and really hard for peoplpe breaking into 5.12 (it was my third 12a after one at the NRG, and one at Mt Charleston.) The Gift I'd give 12c. Most of the stuff at RR that's rated 13a and up is pretty accurate, especially the new* stuff (or so i hear through the grapevine.)
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andrurok
Jun 3, 2005, 2:28 PM
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The Graduate, Mt. Nemo, Ontario.
Had tried it 6/7 times. It was pretty easy when I finally gave up and sent it. It's never all that hard when it works it seems.
Nice varied, relatively quiet climb.
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rockclimbr3
Sep 14, 2005, 4:10 PM
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Everybody Needs Friends at Jackson Falls IL
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pbjosh
Sep 14, 2005, 5:28 PM
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There's soft stuff @ Red Rocks, sure, like Yaak Crack and Sweet Pain as mentioned. The Gift is probably more like 12c than 12d sure.
But there's plenty that'll make you earn it too - like Minstrels (12b) or more notably Pet Shop Boys (wtf?)...
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drfelatio
Dec 11, 2006, 9:03 PM
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acacongua wrote: Stay the Hand at Roadside, Red River Gorge. Accomplished one month ago!
I have yet to redpoint a 12 but "Stay the Hand" will probably be my first. I got on it for the first time this past Sat. Although the first 2 bolts were stick-clipped, I moved through that initial bouldery section with relative ease. Got through the juggy stuff, pulled the undercling to the crimpy rail and took when the gaston saped what remaining strength I had. Shook out and finished. Awesome route and I'm positive I'll get it next time.
If not, oh well, it's fun to have a project nonetheless.
(This post was edited by drfelatio on Dec 11, 2006, 9:04 PM)
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dylan1
Dec 11, 2006, 9:48 PM
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I did a 5.6 twice....does that count?
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magicbus
Dec 11, 2006, 10:03 PM
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j_ung
Dec 11, 2006, 10:10 PM
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Backlash at Beauty Mtn, NRG. Haven't been many since, I'm ashamed to admit. A handful at most. Every .12 I've ever sent first try is at Red Rocks. 
(This post was edited by j_ung on Dec 11, 2006, 10:11 PM)
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climbnjump
Dec 11, 2006, 10:47 PM
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crude control, black corridor, red rocks- onsight. back when i was pulling hard and was ripped.
thought it was actually really easy. nowhere near a 12.i did almost all the routes in the black corridor that day, and moved to another area after, and a 10b was getting the better of me.
anyhow, that was the first 12 i actually completed no falls, that was over 10 years ago. moved on to doing lots more 12s after that, then stopped climbing for close to 10 years, and now im just getting back into it again and im a wuss.......have gone indoor about 7 times since im back climbing the last 3 weeks. i was sketchy on 10s today.
what a sissy bitch i am....
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fearlessclimber
Dec 12, 2006, 7:32 PM
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climbing a little over a year and have about a dozen 12s on lead under my belt, i just started getting stronger and noticed i wasnt using really any strength on 11's, so my teqnique was getting much better you could say. just climb outside alot and itll come soon.
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coastal_climber
Dec 12, 2006, 7:37 PM
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Roll the Dice 
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ninja_climber
Dec 12, 2006, 7:44 PM
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Brid Klina in Paklenica. I trained all summer for the trip to Paklenica, and to my shear amazement I red-pointed it...
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yorb
Dec 13, 2006, 6:12 AM
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I accidentally got on a 5.12 once... I didn't bring my guide book.
I haven't really been climbing consistently enough, and until recently when I actually stopped casual climbing and started pushing myself, I realized that I can climb 5.11b!
...I'll be there soon, but I don't care too much as long as I do whats most challenging for myself.
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bouldrinsoill
Dec 13, 2006, 6:32 AM
Post #65 of 72
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Posts: 109
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Velvet Green, at Jackson Falls, IL
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getsomeethics
Dec 13, 2006, 6:48 AM
Post #66 of 72
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sweet pain at red rocks. have heard it called a soft 12a a few times, so this might mean it is 11d, so my first could not be my first
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dhaulagiri
Mar 16, 2007, 6:07 PM
Post #67 of 72
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Registered: Sep 29, 2003
Posts: 236
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Acid Rock at Devil's Lake, WI - fewer tries than Lynn Hill reportedly so I guess I am therefore a better climber...
(This post was edited by dhaulagiri on Mar 16, 2007, 7:25 PM)
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cracklover
Mar 16, 2007, 7:23 PM
Post #68 of 72
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Social Outcast5.12a/b at Rumney. Third try.
I guess that's 2nd try "euro". Ha!
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Mar 16, 2007, 7:24 PM)
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ihategrigris
Mar 16, 2007, 8:34 PM
Post #69 of 72
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
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The red route at the gym... booyeah!
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deadhorse
Mar 29, 2007, 6:38 AM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
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goddamn, a guys feeling good about his first .10B onsight, and then BAM, "yeah my first .12, at 15 years old..." some support group this is, overachieving d*cks. Kidding of course, I'm still promising myself i'll have my first 12 by the end of my first year, so I've got a little bit longer, to go, oh i don't know 7 (letter) grades?!
congrats on all your success guys, it's an inspiration to push harder.
and btw, hearing that RR grades are soft just makes me want to go there that much more haha
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chossmonkey
Apr 6, 2007, 7:00 PM
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[quote "smellyhippie"]Uhh, sorry, but Fear and Loathing III is no harder that 11c, no matter what the guidebook says. In most areas it would be 11b.
[/quote]
Rough words from someone who is someplace with no climbable rock.
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crazygirl
Apr 13, 2007, 9:56 PM
Post #72 of 72
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Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
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i don't remember.
I hope my comment was helpful.
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