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kyperman
Jan 10, 2007, 9:16 PM
Post #26 of 37
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Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 14
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OK, guys here are some of things I have managed to buy so far. I have a long way to go before I am ready to climb. Please rate some of the things I have bought and tell me how they are gonna work. I have been looking on EBAY, Campmor, etc to find stuff that is not gonna break my budget (which is really not much) yet will work for a trip to the top of Rainier.
1. 40 L north face backpack 50 bucks on ebay ( I think it is gonna be to small, there is no way I am gonna get a sleeping bag in there with all the other junk I need.
2. 5 degree sleeping bag, ebay, not top of the line, but it was pretty cheap. I am gonna sleep outside sometime this winter with it and see how well it performs. It weighs about 4 lbs.
3. Base layer, Columbia 60/40 Mid weight long underwear.
4. Smith Cascade Pro Goggles
5. Coolmax liner socks
6. Manzella Expedition weight Balalava
7. Gordini Gore - Tex Peak Summit Gloves (Wind and water resistant)
8. Gordini Aquablock II overmitts
9. Campmore power glove liner
10. Julbo Arctic Glacier glasses.
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illimaniman
Jan 10, 2007, 11:17 PM
Post #27 of 37
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Registered: Oct 21, 2002
Posts: 128
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Re: double plastic boots. In reply to: No one I know who has climbed rainier in the summer has used them.
This poster obviously doesn't know enough people that have climbed Rainier. The VAST majority of people climbing, and pretty much everyone who climbs with guide services (RMI), wear rented double plastic boots.
Seriously, for your first glaciated peak, I would not recommend buying boots and crampons. You can rent double plastics and crampons from REI for about $30 for the weekend. Find out if you are really going to be a serious climber before dropping $500 on them.
I have done Rainier in double plastics and in leathers. Either will work, both have their pros and cons. But take my advice and rent boots for your first time.
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climbingaggie03
Jan 11, 2007, 12:04 AM
Post #28 of 37
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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For Rainier, I think that a 20 degree bag will do if you are going climbing with RMI cause you sleep in the hut at muir. 4lbs is really heavy for a sleeping bag, a 20 degree bag shouldn't weigh more than 3lbs and should probably be closer to 2lbs.
and yeah, a 40L Bag aint gonna cut it except as a summit pack (which why would you bother carrying up another pack?)
I always wear sunglasses, I have replaceable lenses on mine that let me use them if weather is kinda crappy but not so bad that you need goggles. I usually take a pair of goggles with me just in case (I found mine under a ski lift so I got a great deal)
If you are going to buy an Ice axe, I'd get the either the raven ultra, or raven pro. I have a raven and love how it works, but it's a bit heavy.
I agree with others that say it's best to rent boots and crampons. I got my plastics for like $100 and I'd be surprised if you can get decent plastics for less than that. You can climb rainier with leathers or other single boots, but plastics are safer as far as keeping your feet dry and warm. Plastics are a bitch to break in though so make sure you go through this agony somewhere other than rainier.
as far a clothes for rainier (in the summer time) I'd take
a synthetic short sleeve T-shirt
midweight long underwear shirt
Midweight Long underwear bottoms
100wt Fleece jacket/pullover
200wt Fleece jacket pullover (softshell if possible)
Down Jacket (northface nuptse type of jacket)
Shell (water proof/breatheable) Jacket and Pants
gaiters (OR crocks are my favorite)
light liner gloves
heavy liner gloves
Shell gloves
light weight beanie
warmer (200wt fleece) beanie (I like to layer my hats)
1 pair of expedition wt socks
1 pair of regular wt socks
A visor or sun hat (i like visors cause I can wear them with beanies)
That would be my clothing list, I might take a light pair of nylon shorts for the hike to muir (depending on the time of year and weather)
I love dermatone sun screen you can get it at REI and I think it does the best job of keeping the sun off your face and neck.
the important thing is to go, be safe and have a good time, gear won't get you up the mountain, it just makes it possible for you to be there and be comfortable. I know that it is alot of money, but when you are faced with saving a few bucks or buying better/nicer/lighter equipment buy the best you can, the better your equipment, the longer you will keep it.
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crotch
Jan 11, 2007, 2:03 AM
Post #29 of 37
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 1277
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kyperman
Jan 11, 2007, 3:43 AM
Post #31 of 37
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Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 14
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I did look into this....itr sounds like an awsome thing to do. BUT 3500 is a butt-load of money to raise. Has anyone else done this and how in the world did you raise this money?
I would be afraid that people would think I was doing this for myself (which would be partly true) and not for the cause so much. But that is a lot of cool gear....
hmmmm....
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rocketsocks
Jan 12, 2007, 2:44 PM
Post #32 of 37
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Registered: Feb 11, 2006
Posts: 179
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kixx wrote: Did not use plastic boots - my leathers were saturated on the approach to Muir and then froze every day after that. You can take the liner out of your plastics and sleep with them to dry them. Also had prblems keeping a crampon on - this is a big deal.
Here's a trick I haven't seen anyone else mention: bring along a thin plastic garbage bag, clean all the snow and mud off your non-plastic boots, then put them into the bag, making sure to wrap up the end of the bag to keep any remaining crud inside it, then put it in your sleeping bag over night. You will have reasonably warm, non-frozen boots in the morning without having to deal with the cost and other down-sides of plastics.
(This post was edited by rocketsocks on Jan 12, 2007, 2:48 PM)
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graniteboy
Jan 12, 2007, 7:47 PM
Post #33 of 37
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
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About the plastic bag trick: it still leaves you with wet leather boots. If you're going leather, you need to do a few things, In my old school "I've been climbin in leather boots since before you were learning who bigbird is, and i still have some leathers to complement my plastics" opinion: 1) seal the hell outta your boots (including the rand) , and get yourself some good supergaiters. they keep the vast majority of water off your boots from the outside. 2) wear Vapor barrier liner sox. They keep your feet from sweating up the inside of your boots.
As for drying those boots..I've found that the only good way to do this is to wear a VBL inside your sleeping bag, whack and scrub your boots off as best you can, then put your boots outside the VBL but inside the bag while you sleep. This keeps the insensible perspiration from your body from adding to the damp boots vapor and soaking your bag, and the vapor from the drying boots usually just gets pressured on out of your nag (except when it's hella cold relative to the thickness of your bag). I've used this trick on Denali, among a couple hundred other mountains, so it works. Not perfect, but it works. But you gotta keep your boots from getting soaking wet in the first place, or you're screwed. And it also seems to take a few nights to get used to having boots in your bag with you. Remember that people used to climb K2 and Everest and denali in leathers until 30 years ago. You just hafta have some gear management skills, and take care of your gear more than you would if you were wearing plastic.
At any rate, shit, Kyperman....the best way to learn all this stuff and to accumulate enough gear to do bigger projects is to start out by doing lots and lots of smaller projects first. Then you'll have the experience to go along with all that gear, and you won't be one of these guys who is all hat and no cattle, like most folks I bump into in the alpine zone. Maybe you should take a little weekend run on shasta first. That's a good stepping stone for slightly larger projects like Raineer.
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kyperman
Jan 12, 2007, 10:31 PM
Post #34 of 37
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Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 14
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Well I appreciate the advice from everyone.
I also hope those of you who live near to mountains appreciate it, cause those of us who live in the flatlands can't just go to Shasta or Hood for the weekend usually. I am so jealous.
Michigan is pretty, but our highest high point is Mt Arvon...like 1790 feet of something. You take a logging road to get to the top!!
Seriously, I am looking forward to some trips in the future. I should continue to make friends on this forum, that way I can meet up with some folks from time to time and learn the ropes.
Anyone planning any trips to Shasta or a smaller mountain this year that I could tag along with?
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puerto
Jan 12, 2007, 11:23 PM
Post #35 of 37
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Registered: Aug 22, 2005
Posts: 229
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Holy shit, $3500 to climb Rainier?? (oops forget I said that, wasn't paying attention)
But anyway..
Mountaineering fever, remember it like it was yesterday..
There's used gear shops in Seattle where you can get all or most this stuff in good condition for a fifth of what you'll pay for it new..
I predict you'll want to do more after Rainier, so if you start looking into an expedition with Dan Mazur at summitclimb he might invite you to climb the thing for free (as friends not as a guide) and probably has extras of half the gear on that list..
(This post was edited by puerto on Jan 12, 2007, 11:40 PM)
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graniteboy
Jan 12, 2007, 11:37 PM
Post #36 of 37
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
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As far as esy alpine routes, I'll be taking a run or 2 on shasta this early summer. I like that one around late june.
Condition: I don't take fat americans climbing. I spent too many years guiding in various circumstances, on the mountain, rock, river, etc...and don't wanna deal with that fat obnoxious american thing anymore. I also don't climb with republicans.
There; you now have about a 20% chance of fitting my initial criteria for tagging along on a shasta route. If you're still in the running, drop me a line.
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kyperman
Jan 13, 2007, 4:08 AM
Post #37 of 37
(686 views)
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Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 14
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Well,
I am not fat, but I am an American. As far as being a republican, I do vote that way most often, but I am not registered as anything. I vote that way generally due to some social issues I view as important to me.
If you did take the time to get to know me, I promise, you would like me!! I generally try to avoid discussing religion and politics, they seem to be the cause of many an argument. I actually have been getting a little more liberal in my old age on some things however.
I do have some liberal friends and I don't push my views on anyone. So that being said, I would not meet your criteria I suppose. Does not mean I am not a very nice dude and I make a wonderful dinner guest .... I eat anything without complaint.
Most importantly however, when you are my friend, I don't care much how you vote.
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