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jettnjoe
Jan 25, 2007, 9:20 PM
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I've seen some guidbooks suggesting to have "RP's" as a part of one's rack. What does RP stand for, and where can you get them?
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brianinslc
Jan 25, 2007, 9:46 PM
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jettnjoe wrote: I've seen some guidbooks suggesting to have "RP's" as a part of one's rack. What does RP stand for, and where can you get them?
Roland Pauligk. Small, brass nuts.
Usually, you can sub them with DMM Peenuts or BD micro nuts. They are a bit more straight sided than those. Not sure they're still around, though. Were from Oz, methinks.
-Brian in SLC
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sungam
Jan 25, 2007, 10:31 PM
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EVERYONE uses RP's over here in scotland. Watch E11, even
Dave Mac uses them. They are definitly still around :)
-Magnus
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michaelmcguinn
Jan 25, 2007, 10:46 PM
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Reporting Party
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michaelmcguinn
Jan 25, 2007, 10:47 PM
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Red Point
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dlintz
Jan 25, 2007, 11:51 PM
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jettnjoe wrote: I've seen some guidbooks suggesting to have "RP's" as a part of one's rack. What does RP stand for, and where can you get them?
Really Puney!!
An rc.com member for over 2 years before your first post!! You should get a prize for Best Lurking Member!!
d.
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marc801
Jan 26, 2007, 12:27 AM
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brianinslc wrote: jettnjoe wrote: I've seen some guidbooks suggesting to have "RP's" as a part of one's rack. What does RP stand for, and where can you get them? Roland Pauligk. Small, brass nuts. Usually, you can sub them with DMM Peenuts or BD micro nuts. They are a bit more straight sided than those. Not sure they're still around, though. Were from Oz, methinks.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ailed%2F372.html;d=1
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stymingersfink
Jan 26, 2007, 2:35 AM
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dlintz wrote: jettnjoe wrote: I've seen some guidbooks suggesting to have "RP's" as a part of one's rack. What does RP stand for, and where can you get them? Really Puney!! An rc.com member for over 2 years before your first post!! You should get a prize for Best Lurking Member!! d.
prob-lee forgot his password! 
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dr_feelgood
Jan 26, 2007, 2:40 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: dlintz wrote: jettnjoe wrote: I've seen some guidbooks suggesting to have "RP's" as a part of one's rack. What does RP stand for, and where can you get them? Really Puney!! An rc.com member for over 2 years before your first post!! You should get a prize for Best Lurking Member!! d. prob-lee forgot his password!
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summerprophet
Jan 26, 2007, 2:43 AM
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As previously stated, RP's are small brass nuts. While this is a trade name, it has been accepted much in the same way friends or jumars has. RP's in a suggested gear list insinuates that the route has sections (or all if it) of extremely small seams. RP's are bordering on the realm of psychological pro only. Often set in sets of two or three when you get a stance.
Again these can be substituted by any of the variety of micro nuts. (Often these have to be special ordered, unless of course your local area guidebook is suggesting the use of them, then the local gear shop should carry them.
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dr_feelgood
Jan 26, 2007, 2:47 AM
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summerprophet wrote: As previously stated, RP's are small brass nuts. While this is a trade name, it has been accepted much in the same way friends or jumars has. RP's in a suggested gear list insinuates that the route has sections (or all if it) of extremely small seams. RP's are bordering on the realm of psychological pro only. Often set in sets of two or three when you get a stance.
Aid Climbing Beeeyaaa!
I really should unplug my internet whilst drinking.
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skinner
Jan 26, 2007, 2:51 AM
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sungam wrote: EVERYONE uses RP's over here in scotland. Watch E11, even Dave Mac uses them. They are definitly still around :) -Magnus
Do people still have MOAC's on their racks there?
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angry
Jan 26, 2007, 2:54 AM
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Don't make RP's out to sound like the devil.
The truth is if you look at an RP or an equivalent size nut, the RP is stronger.
It's only scary when you are placing rp's smaller than any nut.
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sungam
Jan 26, 2007, 5:16 PM
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skinner wrote: sungam wrote: EVERYONE uses RP's over here in scotland. Watch E11, even Dave Mac uses them. They are definitly still around :) -Magnus Do people still have MOAC's on their racks there?
They probobly do.
-Magnus
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brianinslc
Jan 26, 2007, 5:34 PM
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Ton of nutty stuff on this website...
http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/nutsstory.htm
I have an old MOAC (which came from the name, Mountain Activity apparently). Weren't they made by Clog as well?
Was in Italy a few months ago, and, in a climbing shop, I still saw Pecks for sale. Crazy.
-Brian in SLC
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robdotcalm
Jan 27, 2007, 12:27 AM
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summerprophet wrote: As previously stated, RP's are small brass nuts. While this is a trade name, it has been accepted much in the same way friends or jumars has. RP's in a suggested gear list insinuates that the route has sections (or all if it) of extremely small seams. RP's are bordering on the realm of psychological pro only. Often set in sets of two or three when you get a stance. .
RPs are more than psychological protection. When well placed, and especially, if using a screamer they are reliable. I’ve taken many falls on them over the years and have had only one pullout. A #3 once held about a 20 ft. fall. Several of the strands broke, and I retired the piece in honor. Most remarkably, I once had a #1 RP hold an air fall on an overhang. Since I had about 70 ft. of rope out, the fall factor was about .07 so that really helped.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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shimanilami
Jan 31, 2007, 4:59 PM
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summerprophet wrote: RP's are bordering on the realm of psychological pro only.
Using them to protect falls is dicey, indeed. But they are indispesible for thin aid. Sometimes, standing on a RP is the only way up to your next dicey placement. And your next. And your next ...
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