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cchildre
Feb 2, 2007, 4:08 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
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What is this thing? Says it is a BD Camalot, but it looks really weird to me. Am I missing something?
Here is a link to the auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/4-BLACK-DIAMOND-CAMALOT-PRO-HUGE_W0QQitemZ220076355334QQihZ012QQcategoryZ50814QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Anyone else thinking WTF?
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eviljay
Feb 2, 2007, 4:14 PM
Post #2 of 12
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Registered: Oct 27, 2003
Posts: 51
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Yes, it is a first generation Camalot.
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musicman1586
Feb 2, 2007, 4:16 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Registered: Oct 26, 2005
Posts: 488
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Yeah, that's just an older camalot
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cchildre
Feb 2, 2007, 4:17 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
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Thanks,
Had never seen one before.
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styndall
Feb 2, 2007, 4:17 PM
Post #5 of 12
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Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741
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Definitely an old Camalot. When I was climbing at Yosemite on Dirko's loaner rack, I used a #2 like that. It looked weird but placed fine. I never fell on it, or even weighted it, though.
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brianinslc
Feb 2, 2007, 4:40 PM
Post #6 of 12
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
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I've got a couple of those #4's...I think mine say Chouinard on them.
Pretty popular design for awhile. I have a few of the smaller ones that I'd installed the old Camalot Jr. plastic cable guards onto, then used a sling directly on the loop (instead of a quickdraw or biner).
These were a bit lighter, I seem to recall, than the second to latest BD camalots. Seemed to work well. Still see them on some folks' racks.
-Brian in SLC
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redpoint73
Feb 2, 2007, 4:51 PM
Post #7 of 12
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
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Wow, the seller must have found some old stock in a dusty closet somewhere. This should be kept as a collectors item, how often do you find brand new first generation Camalots?
I must be getting old, since I remember those, too. Its over a decade old. I started climbing in 95, and I believe BD switched over to the single stem design fairly recently (maybe within a couple years) of when I started.
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kane_schutzman
Feb 2, 2007, 9:02 PM
Post #8 of 12
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Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
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I took my very first trad fall allittle more than a month ago on one and it held.The new camalots are alot easier to handle. I wrapped the cable in tape and use a nylon sling. I picked two like new reds up on ebay for 31 shipped.
Edited!
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Feb 3, 2007, 12:18 AM)
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angry
Feb 3, 2007, 12:08 AM
Post #9 of 12
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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Unfortunately, this isn't a trustworthy piece. It has 2 modes of failure that have been corrected with the newer camalots.
1. Cracks can form at the ball at the top of the cam. A large enough crack could cause total failure. BD did test some of these and they didn't just fail outright. Still, it's recomended that any cam with this crack be retired.
2. With use, the cable will fray at the very end right where the steel head is brazed in. This can be a real problem because it's covered in plastic and you can't see it unless you slide the plastic back (easy to do on these cams)
So, just inspect this cam very regularly and it's fine.
I am also pretty wary of how thin the cam lobes are, in soft rock, I'd worry they'd slice right out.
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kane_schutzman
Feb 3, 2007, 12:11 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
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Are you talking about the ball that is somewhat clamped on the top of the wires right above the Axle? I did not know this and want to check all of mine..Thanks for letting us know!
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unrooted
Feb 3, 2007, 12:11 AM
Post #11 of 12
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840
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Also the cam angle on these is different than the newer ones, I've heard of "bomber" placements pulling with these.
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angry
Feb 3, 2007, 12:16 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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It's either the ball or the flat steelhead the ball would pull against when loaded. I can't remember.
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