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munky
Jan 31, 2007, 8:35 PM
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Sidepull, I thought trailer parks were only in your parts. You know, chow your biscuit from Bojangles and off to Sunset, T-Wall, or LRC for a session. Anyways, what you mistaken for ignorance is blatant confidence in my views. As far as I'm concerned bouldering is playing around in the woods on little insignificant rocks. If we are gonna take sooo seriously to grade how hard these little rocks are to ascend, so seriously in fact that we have 15 distinctions, well I find that absolutely ridiculous. And I'll stand by my belief that V11 and up is all the same: Really hard. On any given day, a climber capable of pulling on problems "rated" in that range could find a V14 to be the same difficulty as a V11 or in fact the V11 to be actually harder for them. Different strokes for different folks, ya know. Anyways if you are so dumb that you can't understand my point then you deserve to be stuck in the world of ignorance and people whom don''t get IT!
PS I have no 8a scorecard, but I do see that you care enough to actually download pics of yourself to this website. What a tool! Go follow me out on the rocks at a day in the Valley or up on the Diamond and then start talking. Until then, keep banging your head up against the rock until knock some sense into yourself.
Munky
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adklimber
Jan 31, 2007, 8:57 PM
Post #27 of 51
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munky wrote: Go follow me out on the rocks at a day in the Valley or up on the Diamond and then start talking. Until then, keep banging your head up against the rock until knock some sense into yourself. Munky
Sidepull, meet him in the valley!! Take some pics and get back to us on this one. I am sure you would have a hell of a trip.
Munky, your the tool who is so interested in sidepull that you would check his personal profile and his pics.
One more thing, your grade scale creation sucks!
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chikinv10
Jan 31, 2007, 9:11 PM
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munky is right in one sense. some say there arent any harder moves then V12. since most boulder problems DONT have their respective move in them (meaning in most V9s there isnt a true V9 move), then a V15 or V16 would be a certain culmination of V10 and up movement. the only exception to this is the one-move-wonder but i'm not too sure on how many one-move-wonders there are that are over V12. so a strong man like Litz, with a certain level of power endurance could walk up a long V13 with many V10 moves and yet struggle on a three move V12 with all V12 movement. if that makes sense?
Munky is wrong though in that there are at least 6 V11 or harder boulder problem in boone alone (maybe more, i just did a quick count in my head).
As any respectable route setter would say, there is a science to the grading system. Both Indoor and Outdoor climbing are measurable to an extent. having set numerous grades up to V11 for numerous competitions and just everyday climbing i can say there are definitive differences between every grade. All it takes is putting in the time and effort to figure out what those differences are. And at the end of your climb you shouldnt base the grade on what youve heard or read in a guide book but figure it out yourself by comparing past climbs and experiences to it.
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cchildre
Jan 31, 2007, 9:36 PM
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sierrablaircoylew wrote: v11 and v16 have nothing in common, now go kill your self, fuck tard!!!!!!
LMAO, maybe he should have clarified that he has no idea about those grades with no ascents at that level. To a weakling flounder as myself, V6-V16 are all the same....that is, I look at them and think how the f*&k?????
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munky
Jan 31, 2007, 9:50 PM
Post #30 of 51
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Dude, I lived in Boone for 5 years. Unless 6 problems harder than V11 went up in the past 3 years I think you're mistaken. If you take Morphine as the hardest problem rated at V11 originally by Litz and then pronounced as hard as shit by others and up graded to V12, as our benchmark V12 problem, then tell me what problems in Boone are harder than that.
Munky |
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sidepull
Jan 31, 2007, 9:59 PM
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munky wrote: PS I have no 8a scorecard, but I do see that you care enough to actually download pics of yourself to this website. What a tool! Go follow me out on the rocks at a day in the Valley or up on the Diamond and then start talking. Until then, keep banging your head up against the rock until knock some sense into yourself. Munky
Thanks munk, but I'll pass on your invitation for two reasons:
1) I don't like climbing with people that communicate as if they were contenders on WWE RAW.
2) I would never trust a belayer or spotter who's ego is so fragile that his default response to someone critiquing his perspective necessitates a face-to-face meeting.
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munky
Feb 1, 2007, 4:21 AM
Post #32 of 51
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Sidepull wrote:
[Wow. I mean the first post is an obvious troll, and then there's munky, noob spraylord spawn of Burt Bronson, who seems to be de-evolving the v-system to reinvent the B grading system. What a thread!!!]
As I see it you started the verbal attack. I guess that's the way pussies from Chattanooga roll. Act like a bad ass and then when confronted back out by arguing that they are high and mighty and too sophisticated. Bullshit sidepull you are a big f-ing chicken shit who doesn't know his ass from his elbow.
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musicman1586
Feb 1, 2007, 5:17 AM
Post #33 of 51
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Haven't read most of the other posts, sounds like a flame war is starting between people, but here's a chart that I think is fairly accurate based off my local areas and climbing out at Hueco, although out at Hueco there is a mix of new school and old school grades at times and some of the stuff is kinda sadbagged when compared to this chart. Only problem here is that while it gives a reference to the yds system, every crag is different as well, so bottom line, there is no answer, because to me the crux of a .11 may feel like V2, but an .11 at any of my local areas may feel like a .10 or a .12 in others. So yeah, good luck with ever figuring it out, however this chart is the closest I've ever seen in writing.
V0- .9
V0 .10-
V0+ .10+
V1 .11-
V2 .11
V3 .11+
V4 .12-
V5 .12
V6 .12+
V7 .13-
V8 .13
V9 .13+
V10 .14a
V11 .14b
V12 .14c
V13 .14d
V14 .15a
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sierrablaircoylew
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Feb 1, 2007, 6:32 AM
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sierrablaircoylew
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Feb 1, 2007, 6:37 AM
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sierrablaircoylew
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Feb 1, 2007, 6:45 AM
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musicman1586
Feb 1, 2007, 7:01 AM
Post #37 of 51
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sierrablaircoylew wrote: I've sent Paleozoic fuck sucks, i sent MOAB at the priest draw, thats v7 you loserrrsss!!!!! I also sent paleozoic Solid and hard v9 so fucking hard. It might be a 10 maybe 10/11???? I think you all are like v2 climbers i will kick all your asses. I'm sponsered by blue water with climbers like chris sharma, beth rodden and tommy caldwell. im only 13 years old and climb harder than all of you. Tommy and beth say that im gonna be the next katie brown but with a nicer ass.
Wow, what a tool...what's funny is I'm not even sure if it's just a sad troll or reality, because I have known kids just like this, entertaining, I might actually have to go read the rest of these posts.
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bizarrodrinker
Feb 1, 2007, 12:52 PM
Post #38 of 51
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musicman1586 wrote: sierrablaircoylew wrote: I've sent Paleozoic fuck sucks, i sent MOAB at the priest draw, thats v7 you loserrrsss!!!!! I also sent paleozoic Solid and hard v9 so fucking hard. It might be a 10 maybe 10/11???? I think you all are like v2 climbers i will kick all your asses. I'm sponsered by blue water with climbers like chris sharma, beth rodden and tommy caldwell. im only 13 years old and climb harder than all of you. Tommy and beth say that im gonna be the next katie brown but with a nicer ass. Wow, what a tool...what's funny is I'm not even sure if it's just a sad troll or reality, because I have known kids just like this, entertaining, I might actually have to go read the rest of these posts.
Are you kidding, kids like this should be drive out into the desert and left for dead.
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sidepull
Feb 1, 2007, 5:54 PM
Post #39 of 51
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1) What's with the rampant profanity and chest-thumping in this thread? The convention on this site has always been to keep things reasonable and to communicate in a civil way.
2) I think it's fairly obvious that the person with the handle "sierrablaircoylew" is not Sierra Blaire Coyle, and perhaps a mod should intercede so that she isn't misrepresented by this idiot.
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chikinv10
Feb 1, 2007, 7:42 PM
Post #40 of 51
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For one, Morphine is not V11. it's upwards of V13. Kratos is V12 and I've heard V13. The Sit to Senderalla will give you at least 11 maybe 12 points. The sit to Throttle ive heard will go at a good 11 points though it's probably closer to 10 even though it's only seen around 4 ascents. There are a handful just as hard problems laced throughout boone. Rumblingbad has seen a few ascent of up to V12 in recent years and there is MAJOR room for improvement. You are right about the south being the place for strong climbing and hard grades. i mean hell, we all know Mighty Mouse has got to be the hardest V5 in the world.
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sierrablaircoylew
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Feb 2, 2007, 6:42 AM
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eddie_munster
Feb 2, 2007, 6:31 PM
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chikinv10 wrote: i mean hell, we all know Mighty Mouse has got to be the hardest V5 in the world.
MM isn't that hard, really -- I thought it was pretty soft. The hardest V5 in America is probably Dean's Trip @ Hueco.
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curtis_g
Feb 2, 2007, 6:51 PM
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thaks fo rsaving me some ketstrokes. that was bugging me that no one answered it yet...
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philbox
Moderator
Feb 3, 2007, 2:54 AM
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sierrablaircoylew has been banned from this forum and will shortly be banned from this site 4 lyfe.
His posts may stay up or I could simply send them off to the recycle bin. I am happy to oblige either way.
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miavzero
Feb 3, 2007, 4:11 AM
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munky wrote: ...What a tool!...
What did the wrench call the screwdriver?
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fluxus
Feb 3, 2007, 5:59 AM
Post #46 of 51
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munky wrote: . . . anything V11 and up is really hard and the difference between those problems is so minimal that many upper level climbers agree that they find certain V13 easier than V11 and vice versa. I've said it once and I'll say it again, V11 and up is damn hard and you just need to put the work into it. There is no real difference in terms of difficulty.
no and no. First, climbers of all abilities find certain harder problems easier than certain easyer problems. This has nothing to do with where one is on the V scale its got to do with individual strengths and weaknesses as well as the fact that some problems are easy for the grade while others are hard for the grade. Second, to say there is no real difference in terms of difficulty is just a denial of reality. If there is no difference in difficulty in the harder problems in your local area then the grading system at your crag is a mess, but don't think that this somehow represent the status of bouldering grades around the country or the world, it doesn't.
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musicman1586
Feb 3, 2007, 7:10 AM
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eddie_munster wrote: chikinv10 wrote: i mean hell, we all know Mighty Mouse has got to be the hardest V5 in the world. MM isn't that hard, really -- I thought it was pretty soft. The hardest V5 in America is probably Dean's Trip @ Hueco.
Haha, that problem is without a doubt majorly sandbagged, I definitely second that one.
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curt
Feb 3, 2007, 4:30 PM
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fluxus wrote: munky wrote: . . . anything V11 and up is really hard and the difference between those problems is so minimal that many upper level climbers agree that they find certain V13 easier than V11 and vice versa. I've said it once and I'll say it again, V11 and up is damn hard and you just need to put the work into it. There is no real difference in terms of difficulty. no and no. First, climbers of all abilities find certain harder problems easier than certain easyer problems. This has nothing to do with where one is on the V scale its got to do with individual strengths and weaknesses as well as the fact that some problems are easy for the grade while others are hard for the grade. Second, to say there is no real difference in terms of difficulty is just a denial of reality. If there is no difference in difficulty in the harder problems in your local area then the grading system at your crag is a mess, but don't think that this somehow represent the status of bouldering grades around the country or the world, it doesn't.
I may not agree with munky's blanket statement, but it is almost impossible to accurately rate the difficulty of any given boulder problem to the finely granular level of the "V" scale rating system. Further more, this problem does not only exist at the higher end of the scale. I think this problem may exist in rating routes with the YDS sysyem too--but the problem is somewhat worse in bouldering, where the entire problem often involves doing a few specific well defined moves.
Curt
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sungam
Feb 12, 2007, 6:32 PM
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curt wrote: Bscale4lyfe..... Curt
Roll on the British Adjevtive scale!!!
-Magnus
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but I didnt know Sidepull resided here??? 
