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brandon_foto
Feb 3, 2007, 11:15 AM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2006
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I want to get into big wall and Alpine climbing. I am trad/sport climber about 5.8trad and 5.10 sport. I have a full trad and sport rack. I want to get into aid climbing then later alpine. I live in Texas for now and might be moving to Cleveland,ohio for school. are there steps I can take now to help me progress in my goals. I have a BD Blizzard harness. Been thinking about getting a Yates shield harness for big walls and climbing photography. I was wondering is it better to just get more of an all around alpine/trad harness or a Shield is the way to go. What other things i need to do as for conditioning or training. Sorry about posting this twice I just want info from people of both disciplines.
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socalclimber
Feb 3, 2007, 1:59 PM
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Well, I'm not an alpine climber, and only a fair aid climber, but I would suggest the Yates shield or big wall harness for aid. For alpine I would figure you want something light not so bulky as a wall harness. I'm sure there are others here that will give good advice for the apline side.
As far as aid climbing goes, it can't hurt to get two books 1) Big Walls by John Long and John Middendorf, 2) Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills by the Mountaineers
Both are excellent sources of information to help you get an idea of what you're getting into. The most important thing is to become efficient with gear management and belays. That's where you can loose a ton of time.
Good luck.
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shootershowers
Feb 3, 2007, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Jul 4, 2006
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sorry to hear that your moving up to cleveland. i'm from there and our local crag is nothing to brag about. I climb at about the same difficulty, so when you move up here, if you ever need a partner pm me.
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moose_droppings
Feb 3, 2007, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: I want to get into aid climbing then later alpine. I live in Texas for now and might be moving to Cleveland
[sarcasm] So, how is the alpine around these places? [end sarcasm]
I'm a wannabe aid gumbie and will spend around 3/4 of a day in my trad harness aiding and its fine. If your gonna spend days in a harness, yeah, get something comfortable.
Not being into alpine, and guessing here, you'll probably want whatever equipment is lightest for treking up and down at higher altitudes.
Training for alpine, put a plastic sack with a tight seal over your head and run up and down stairs. [sarcasm again]
Good luck in your admirable adventures.
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brent_e
Feb 4, 2007, 6:31 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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brandon_foto wrote: I want to get into big wall and Alpine climbing. I am trad/sport climber about 5.8trad and 5.10 sport. I have a full trad and sport rack. I want to get into aid climbing then later alpine. I live in Texas for now and might be moving to Cleveland,ohio for school. are there steps I can take now to help me progress in my goals. I have a BD Blizzard harness. Been thinking about getting a Yates shield harness for big walls and climbing photography. I was wondering is it better to just get more of an all around alpine/trad harness or a Shield is the way to go. What other things i need to do as for conditioning or training. Sorry about posting this twice I just want info from people of both disciplines.
just read alpinist magazine....
hanging upside down with your feet stuck in blocks of ice that is constantly dripping onto your crotch and over your face. if you're comfy doing that and comfy when the ice melts and you fall on your head you'll probably be fine for alpine, AFAIK (but i don't know, cuz i don't do alpine stuff).
or, as angry has said.
"eat a bucket of chicken"
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