|
shiggetyshiva
Feb 8, 2007, 6:40 PM
Post #26 of 33
(1395 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 174
|
I bought a set of the Comet cams from Rock Empire - sizes 1 - 5. Have used them with no problems and no regrets for 2 seasons now. Yes, I do like the silky smooth action on my BD cams better, but when I'm reaching for a piece to place and I have a Rock Empire cam that fits, I won't think twice about trusting it to hold a fall.
|
|
|
|
|
tallnik
Feb 9, 2007, 5:28 PM
Post #27 of 33
(1372 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2004
Posts: 595
|
In my opionion the best cams made by RE are the Durango cams (the other ones are just ok, and definately not as nice as the Big Three or DMM). There's a reason that Trango sold them as their flexcam line for years. Like the rest of Trango gear, it's solid, simple, cheap, and gets the job done without unnecessary svelte. Sure, svelteness is nice, but is it worth 2x the money.
Not for me anyways. I've gotten a lot of mileage out of my Durangos, and never had a problem with them. The only cams I would buy instead are the BD C4s for the double axel design, and that little bit of extra camming range. Or, if I was living near chossy rock, mabye the Metolious FAT cams (which suck for good rock).
This year, it's the C4s that I'm going for.
Cheers,
Nik
|
|
|
|
|
hosh
Feb 9, 2007, 6:23 PM
Post #28 of 33
(1361 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
|
The first cams I owned were Trango flex cams, #'s 4-8. Great cams, not much overlap between sizes (if I remember correctly, the 4 and 5 had NO overlap in usable range) and a bit ofa problem in getting stuck due to walking/overcamming. Did they work? YES!!! Did I keep them? NO!!! Sold the entire set in order to get 3 camalots and haven't looked back yet. Sold them to a climbing partner of mine, so I still use them from time to time, and still like them, but I like the C4's much more. Like Friends much more. Also like Metolius cams a lot, but still prefer the single stem design more than the u-stem. Should you get a set of RE cams? Sure, why not? Will you like them? I suppose so... Would you be better off waiting until you can afford cams you'll keep forever? Smart money says yes.
hosh.
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Feb 9, 2007, 7:35 PM
Post #29 of 33
(1350 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
Have RE's the comets, and I really do love them. Never regret a single thing about them. My first set of cams, and it was the perfect way to get started trad climbing. They will serve as doubles once I build up my collection of BD cams. In the long run of things, probably most here would surely include a set of RE's in their Indian Creek rack if necessary. That is my long term plan. Further, if you need to bail, it is so much easier to leave behind a couple of RE's instead of some camalots, $60 to $120, only the booty patrol will be disappointed in the quality.
So if the cash is there, go BD, but if you need gear now, you won't regret RE's. What good is a rack of camalots if you can't get them till the middle of fall. Sometimes instant gratification is the way to go.
|
|
|
|
|
jonathanjcooke
Feb 10, 2007, 12:13 AM
Post #30 of 33
(1331 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2007
Posts: 30
|
A set of Robot Cams were my first. Here are some thoughts on Rock Empire:
1. The heads of the cams (aside from Pulsar) have a very narrow profile. While this is nice in certain situations, they do walk easily.
2. I bought the #6 and #7 Pulsar Cams and there was something wrong with both of them. I do not recommend them.
3. They don't seat as well as Camalots or Metolius cams in most placements. Not sure why, Maybe because of the narrow profile. The lobes themselves have somewhat overly rounded dimples which seems like it could reduce surface area contact betweem lobes and rock.
4. But they are, without question, the most affordable cams on the market.
If you're debating whether to but Camalots or Robots (and you have the money), buy Camalots. If you are serious about trad climbing, you'll end up buying a set later and then you'll just have to sell your Rock Empires; however, they are an inexpensive way to double up on sizes. I still have my robots. They work fine.
-Jon
|
|
|
|
|
deadhorse
Feb 12, 2007, 9:12 PM
Post #31 of 33
(1300 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 241
|
I'm really digging my robot cams (especially my micro robots) despite their less than cutting edge range.
Besides their value, the weight is unbelievable! my .5 (equiv to a .3 BD I think?) weighs 49g. I'm not sure how much meto tcu's weigh (i'm sure it's close) but this is def lighter than a camalot. the robots were my first U stem cams (other than an old .75 camalot) and i find it easier to place.
|
|
|
|
|
domx
Apr 14, 2007, 6:30 AM
Post #32 of 33
(1248 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2005
Posts: 45
|
i have about 8 of them as the back bone of my rack. Of Course the BD are better, meto are lighter, Dmm feel smoother and blah blah blah but i would say that a set of RE cam is better than no cam at all (read not climbing) So i keep climbing on RE until i get out of the dirtbag lifestyle. Also after you get your RE, nothing stop you from buying a BD once in a while when youve had a good tip from the pizza place you work at.
and as a fotnote, support poor climbers, eat pizza
|
|
|
|
|
sanarteaga
Jul 7, 2009, 5:02 AM
Post #33 of 33
(803 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 23, 2008
Posts: 64
|
I own a complete durango set (before flex cam by trango...).
I climb near bogota, Colombia, south america, in rather soft sandstone.
I have fallen less than 10 times on the durangos. Out of those probably 8 where on the blue number 3 (size = red camalot). The f%%ing blue one has ripped out twice (so thats more or less 1/3 of the times). I have been saved both times by the orange numer 4 (size = yellow camalot). And it held both times like a champ, once the fall was a 8 meter factor 1! (i ended up at my belayers' height, but unharmed) I think the first time the blue ripped out was because the piece was to small for the placement (now I always crank this guys at 80%). The second time I think it was the rock quality (sanstone...) but i couldnt tell if the pieces of rock that fell were from the first or the second cam (which hold me).
I have used them to build anchors, and also rested on them a bunch.
This said, this is what I think:
1. Great price.
2. Quality is ok. They are deteriorating, but nothing serious. I guess you can expect a life more or less 3/4 of a camalot.
3. DO NOT TRUST THEM AT RANGES SMALLER THAN 80%. BUT THEY ARE BOMBER AT 80% PLUS RANGES. They are suppose to work 50% up, but at less than 75% they are only psychological pieces to me. Since their range is rather limited, and sizes do not overlap much, they are simply not as versatile as C4s.
4. Stability: The small ones behave better. The big ones need stronger springs (they feel too soft and this could translate into "walking"). Simply use long draws to keep from disloging them...
5. I also own C4 camalots and they are better in every aspect except for: price and weight.
6. I you have no cams, go for RE. They will allow you to start trad climbing. Once get more into hard trads, and you start falling more on the pieces... maybe you will also like to save for some C4s...
Botton line:
CHEAP, RELIABLE BUT WITH A LIMITED RANGE, DECENT QUALITY, GREAT TO START YOUR SLCD RACK!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
