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Painful holds
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cicali


Feb 20, 2007, 1:25 AM
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Painful holds
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Has anyone any tips to "dull up" new climbing holds. Please dont just say climb on them (Yes, I am talking to you!). Even with my calloused hands I have no skin left on the majority of my hands after a session on new holds.


mushroomsamba


Feb 20, 2007, 1:27 AM
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Re: [cicali] Painful holds [In reply to]
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I really dont think there's a better way to have your holds than brand new with lots of friction, it's more like real rock. well some of it anywayTongue


mrsuicide


Feb 20, 2007, 1:30 AM
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sandpaper.


chikinv10


Feb 20, 2007, 1:35 AM
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midol.


socalbolter


Feb 20, 2007, 1:53 AM
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As mentioned above, sandpaper works.

Just be very careful as it's entirely too easy to remove more texture than you intend to and wind up with a hold that feels too slick.


rocknice2


Feb 20, 2007, 1:54 AM
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Re: [cicali] Painful holds [In reply to]
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cicali wrote:
Has anyone any tips to "dull up" new climbing holds. Please dont just say climb on them (Yes, I am talking to you!). Even with my calloused hands I have no skin left on the majority of my hands after a session on new holds.

I feel your pain. Some of the new holds are going back to small-radius/sharp edges. Probably to simulate some real rock conditions. The trouble is that sharp plastic/resin holds rip skin faster than real rock.
An explosion in bouldering has climbers trying to duplicate their hard project in the gym so they can send it come spring.

To soften your holds use the roughest sand paper you can find

I try to buy finger friendly holds. The radius of a hold has a greater impact on skin [and tendons] than texture. Although some textures are just awful.
The best is if you can touch them before you buy them


(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Feb 20, 2007, 1:58 AM)


anykineclimb


Feb 20, 2007, 2:39 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Painful holds [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:

To soften your holds use the roughest sand paper you can find

I wouldn't say the roughest though. the hold WILL smooth out over time so get some medium grit to knock down the rough stuff.


rocknice2


Feb 20, 2007, 4:15 AM
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Try one , if you don't like it try another. I found medium[100 grit] still polished the holds. Texture is molded into the holds and is hard to duplicate with a smearing action[sanding]. I didn't try this but slaping the hold with a stiff wire brush might yeild some results. Try this after you sanded the sharp edges.
OH YA make sure there'ss no wires stuck in the hold.


lena_chita
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Feb 20, 2007, 3:36 PM
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Re: [mrsuicide] Painful holds [In reply to]
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mrsuicide wrote:
sandpaper.

Aww... I'm sure sandpaper works, but the idea of taking a new hold and sandpapering it to feel like an old hold makes me sad. I Like new holds ( I like old holds, too)... Why not buy used holds to begin with then?


nunatak


Feb 20, 2007, 9:32 PM
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How about rubbing a bunch of chalk on them. The holds in gyms get less abrasive as they get caked with chalk. That way they are not polished off forever.


lambone


Feb 20, 2007, 9:37 PM
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Just climb on it...it is not the hold, it is your sensitive skin. You need to climb more and let your skin toughen up, that is all there is too it.


cicali


Feb 20, 2007, 9:39 PM
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If you were to look at the pile of chalk on the floor below the more abrasive holds you would think Rick James just left. This was the only cure I could think of.


miavzero


Feb 20, 2007, 10:11 PM
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Re: [lambone] Painful holds [In reply to]
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lambone wrote:
Just climb on it...it is not the hold, it is your sensitive skin. You need to climb more and let your skin toughen up, that is all there is too it.
I agree to some extent, but I have been climbing regularly for years and never been able to develop the tips of steel. The sides of my fingers formed line callouses from my fingers coming together and being pressed on holds and the backs of my hands are like leather, but a couple days climbing still makes my tips raw.


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