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deadhorse
Feb 20, 2007, 5:30 AM
Post #51 of 56
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 241
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cracklover wrote: deadhorse wrote: I just really REALLY wish there was a twin rope capable autolocking device!! (come on product developers, I know you read here!) There are. GO
Hmm.. You can't use a reverso in autolock mode while lead belaying can you? It won't feed rope right? If it can than I may need to pick one up. Even if not i guess, they look useful
What are these devices you speak of?
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cracklover
Feb 20, 2007, 2:45 PM
Post #52 of 56
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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deadhorse wrote: cracklover wrote: deadhorse wrote: I just really REALLY wish there was a twin rope capable autolocking device!! (come on product developers, I know you read here!) There are. GO QUE??? Such as? I've never heard/seen any that were practical.
Two that I know of: The Hewbolt and the TRE. The Hewbolt I've seen used a few times, but haven't used it myself. The TRE I've used for years.
In reply to: And of course I'm not including devices like a reverso or guide that 'auto-lock' but have no practical means of lowering while loaded. Hmm.. You can't use a reverso in autolock mode while lead belaying can you? It won't feed rope right? If it can than I may need to pick one up. Even if not i guess, they look useful
No, you cannot use a reverso to belay a leader. And no, I do not see the point of picking one up if you want an auto-lock device that you can use for TR, lead, and rappel. The two devices I listed above do those things, while the reverso only auto-locks for TR (and even in that usage, it's awfully difficult to unload if you need to lower the second).
In reply to: What are these devices you speak of?
See above. Note that I've hotlinked the text of the two devices to the review pages on rc.com.
Hope that's helpful.
GO
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bobruef
Feb 20, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #53 of 56
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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miavzero wrote: bobruef wrote: Davey wrote: I really like the GriGri for top roping on a long day. But the GgiGri is to hard to feed out... It gets easier when you learn how to use it properly. Actually, it becomes easier to use when you learn to use it somewhat improperly. Sqeezing the device when you are feeding is the way to go...
Actually, holding the cam while feeding rope out quickly (while the leader is clipping for example) is considered using the device properly, as it is reccomended by Petzl. It is even shown in the instructions for using the device.
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drfelatio
Feb 20, 2007, 6:04 PM
Post #54 of 56
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Registered: Sep 16, 2004
Posts: 475
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bobruef wrote: Actually, holding the cam while feeding rope out quickly (while the leader is clipping for example) is considered using the device properly, as it is reccomended by Petzl. It is even shown in the instructions for using the device.
Yeah, but be careful doing this, especially low to the ground. I saw a guy deck from ~20ft because the belayer was holding the cam, not paying enough attention, and didn't lock off in time.
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bobruef
Feb 20, 2007, 7:18 PM
Post #55 of 56
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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drfelatio wrote: bobruef wrote: Actually, holding the cam while feeding rope out quickly (while the leader is clipping for example) is considered using the device properly, as it is reccomended by Petzl. It is even shown in the instructions for using the device. Yeah, but be careful doing this, especially low to the ground. I saw a guy deck from ~20ft because the belayer was holding the cam, not paying enough attention, and didn't lock off in time.
Right. This is definately very important. The key is to use your brake hand to squeeze it. The reccomended way involves cradling it in the brake hand, and squeezing the cam w/ you pinky (if I'm remembering correctly). I think its smoother to bring your brake hand in, and use your thumb on the cam behind where the rope goes up to the climber. I find this to be a little more natural/foolproof/easy. I only do it to yard out an arm's length of slack for the clip (or two armlengths if necessary). The advantage of this method (once you get the hang of it) is that the brake hand can stay w/ the brake strand of the rope while preforming this motion, and it can easily return to the braking position.
Where people get into trouble is when they use this or a similar method continously for feeding the rope durring the entire climb. The above method is nice, because you never really hold onto the device to squeeze the cam, you just sort-of indirectly hold it down with your thumb while yarding out a bunch of slack, with your hand ready to immediately return to braking position.
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kriso9tails
Feb 20, 2007, 9:52 PM
Post #56 of 56
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
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As mentioned above, there isn't really any need to pinch the device. Much the same as what bobruef said, just slide your brake hand down until your little finger is pressing against the Grigri. This is more than enough pressure to stop the device from locking when you haul out slack for a clip and/ or a sudden big move, but not near enough to prevent the device from locking up in a fall (should you be so incredibly slow that you can't shift your hand back in time). It also has the added benefit that your brake hand never leaves the rope.
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